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Ricky@Race-Tech

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Everything posted by Ricky@Race-Tech

  1. I'll do a group buy onACT if people are interested. If not we keep Competition clutch in stock.
  2. I can overlay a dyno graph of any starlet onto it so you could see the comparison. Ah, do you have an EP3 or EK9? I'll have plenty of graphs of those I could overlay from stock to 485hp. N/a, S/c or Turbo.
  3. Your criticising things what either don't matter or don't understand. If I made the car do 2 bar at 7000rpm's it wouldn't make a single HP more. The head/cam intake are absolutely maxed. Look at where the car makes peak power. You will have the exact same problem in a few weeks i'm sure. Sock's has a ported head also. The AVCR is the best boost controller IMO, the point is I didn't want to make any more boost higher in the RPM's it didn't result in any more power. It was setup on the dyno.
  4. It actually spools really well, it makes more power than a standard starlet (at peak power) at 3800rpm's. Also remember a bigger turbo at a lower level of boost will still flow more air. I.e. This turbo at 0.6-0.7 bar will make more power than a TD04 at 1 bar. Video of spool: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA2wH4XNtmo
  5. The PFC isn't a great ECU by modern standards to be honest. It lacks features and isn't the most flexible. We already found limits on Sock's car using a power FC. The problem with most plug and play standalones is they are connected to a 20 year old loom and sensors. We are currently working on a system what will complete remove the standard wiring loom sensors and obviously ECU. This will obviously cost more than most systems out there, but will allow for a much greater control and you can remove unsightly things like the distributer etc.
  6. This car is in need of a few tweaks to get some more power, but I'm sure it'll be enjoyed for the time being.
  7. The weight of the bottom end wouldn't matter to the RPM's. So long as the bottom end is balanced. The weight of the reciprocal parts would matter, but more/equally as important is the rod to stroke ratio for various reasons. What actually matters more is having the correct cam's for the application. I'll not go into too much detail here.
  8. The intake didn't make it laggy at all, the shocking turbo/kit did along with a poorly spec'd engine. (in terms of head/cam choice). Infact I have the car in at the moment to have one of our GT28 kits fitted, so we'll see the HUGE difference in the midrange. A correctly spec'd intake will not lose any spool. Infact it should improve it along with top end power. We are working on a new intake manifold at the moment, it will be even better than the others. However the cost might scare some people off so we're also keeping the tried and tested intakes. I'm not surprised by the fact a car with l
  9. If you have a DV then all the boost pressure is lost, intercooler/boost pipes etc all need to be refilled. Ontop of this, a "compressor" has less resistance when its NOT moving air. I.e. If the DV is open and its moving air it slows quicker. If you get a normal vacuum cleaner and block the air intake you'll here the speed of the motor increase. (or computer fan etc) Obviously when the air is coming out the opposite way there is slightly more resistance but on datalogs i've seen the boost to be restored quicker without using a DV. Also 90% of DV's we test leak. None of the above would mak
  10. Billet wheels are slightly more efficient and lighter, however the exhaust wheel is FAR heavier than the compressor wheel anyway so the biggest weight savings are to be had here. Back on topic, when are you seeing full boost? What RPM's? Anyway I better get back to work
  11. While you might see the smallest of increases in EGT this wouldn't make the turbo spool a lot faster. If you can increase the gas/volume/speed then you will see quicker spool, but your not going to see more than a few RPM gained.
  12. True compressor surge is when the turbo is being driven. (by the exhaust wheel) and the engine cannot consume the air. When you lift off the turbo isn't been driven. So is slowed down relatively slowly. I've never seen a turbo damaged by not running a dump valve. Manfacturers run recirc valves to make the turbo's as quiet as possible. If you don't run one, they chatter, and its not to everybodies taste.
  13. We would need fairly accurate dimensions in order to make something up.
  14. Matt's car has a huge amount of head work done so its hard to compare. But yes, head work is worth every penny providing its done correctly. The stock starlets heads aren't great in stock form. In certain area's there is a lot to be gained. In other area's not so much.
  15. Looks great, I'm not a fan of bigger wheels anyway.
  16. Indeed, the only reason is for control. A 100mm throttle body would give 100% power at 20% throttle on a stock starlet. Something else to notice doing that experiment, notice the temperature change of the air also.
  17. Very true, smaller throttle body, higher back pressure less efficiency highe gas speed. Gas speed at the throttle body has no advantages. Again correct, a bigger throttle body gives the appearance of better throttle response when infact it is just flowing more air at lower throttle positions. Very hard to measure, transient responce should infact be worse due to the larger plenum volume. However it is virtually none exsistent, ours takes 0.02 seconds longer than stock to fill at approx 3000rpm's. Compare this to the average boost pipe which is 0.1 seconds. This is however just my
  18. Are you looking for Vband or 2 bolt? We have Turbosmart and Tial instock. PM me for pricing.
  19. It would mean different runners but you could do it.
  20. I'd get intouch with Wepr, It looks like they have made an error, which does happen at times. I'm sure they will sort you out if you return it.
  21. We've done it on many cars, most just leave them to be honest. All components are stainless steel.
  22. Did he do a coastdown run? What dyno is it? Although a little high, depending how it was strapped, what wheels/tyres are on it etc it might not be that far out.
  23. Our manifolds are indeed covered by warranty. But if you look at the horrible welding on there its actually being repaired by somebody else before. High EGT's will be the cause of the failure and the TD04 just isn't big enough to run that power reliably on track. The above said, I offered Jamie a deal on one of our new manifolds. After all that! What happened?
  24. You need 550cc injectors to support 400hp, so anything over that is ok. I'd recommend 650-750cc so your along the right lines, the ID's flow nicely, but I'm happy with some from another company. Here's how we test to see which are best. http://www.race-tech...up_image&pID=75
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