nastyrash 2003

oh my god. lol. WTF, i would say that the 4efte cams would be for forced induction aplication look on cat cams web site u see all turbo cams have very little valve over lap as thy do not need much cylinder scavaging. the turbo head has much bigger water jackets mainly around the exhaust valves as cylinder temps get much hotter. the turbo has stronger valve springs which do not bounce till around 8000rpm. cant belive the above topic madness. i am getting the turbo head cut up so i can profile a stage 3 ported head taking it to its limmets but u will need a after market mani to get best gains, this will show the bigger water jackets.

well i have just found this and guys. u got a friend in me, its wat mates do, thr are som people in this world that are worth my time and i would like to thank thm for thrs and being interested in wat i do, and have spent all my adult life learning about. like luk said a problem it aint, more like a plesure boys. forever your mate chris. p.s cheers, means alot lads.

;) , thats why thn mate eyes was on your boot lid ;) . xx

yep im out of here bro. z z z z z z z z z zzzzzzzzz!

the only difference is the stronger valve springs mate the turbo head also has better bigger coolant jackets this is the head u want chief.

a 50mm throttle flap/port is good for 170hp oooowwwww limit that is till it start restricting flow, i have done the calculation and that is if im correct. the equation is a right cow thw!!!!!!. i have seen peeps playing around with thinner flap shafts, only if u think u are hitting 170hp do u need to even consider this (alot af messing for nothing in my opinion) you can also port the head. and remove as much heat soke in the inlet charge as poss, u loss 1% hp for every 7 deg C increase in inlet charge temp. this is why i remove the hot idle valve under the turbo TB it gets very hot. humidity also affects air differently. high humidity (high moisture content) in the air charge causes a barometer to read higher. however, rather than being more dense the air it actualy has less density - it is simply the combined wight of the air plus the water ( low sitting air filter, in the damp dirty air, 1 of my most pet hates) now i would normaly have people at this point telling me its a miner loss, but if you combine however high humidity at elevated charge temps does reduce the oxy content enough to reduce power, for example 65% humidity and 35degC at sea levle will cause a loss in oxygen content to that of 1,000ft elevation. I see this time and time again low air filter in wheel arches or in spot light gaps is not good. 1 of the best mods for heat soke removal is a 86 deg thermostate or 76 deg the engine coolant temp is normaly regulated to around 95 deg C. hope this gives som food for thort. chris.

me plz if poss, i am now a proud owner of markooses V. ;)

boys i lov these motors, my mate has just got the accord h22. so we getting 1 of thm rediculas manifolds for it. it has the leather trim well nice, honda do the best veriable valve engine on the market. he paid 2.9k which is nothing for wat u get.

awsome motor, just dribbled all over my key board. did not see this at japfest guted.

raffa, if only thy new. , and big man let me know wat the size difference is a pic f the JDM mate be apriciated pal.

yep this has realy opened my eyes to these engines, cant wait to open the engine up and see if we can pin point wat exactly went wrong, and y. was not expecting this at all like u said its extremly low milage and u do everything to maintain and keep her heathy. and you was just building your speed up on the track getting the feel, wen the oil presure dropped. not tatering it. realy cant wait to find wat went wrong. make it stronger. thn on to finding the next weakness, lol

gutted ste, see its got you wer it hurts!!!. lov the way u have got stuck in and made it your own, full respect to you. its shocking u have not run it longer just seems a shame was hoping to com on a few cruises with u guys. chris p.s if you sell that head i did mate, you want around 300 quid no joke, if not more. u will not find 1 like it on here and if u do i bet its 500+. make som dollor on it if u sell it, ho ever puts it on will lov it. craigs car has 1 and he is not running half the mods other people have got and it stays right along side thm and he's on standard booste. wat u going with your old engine and crank, am interested mate.

cant belive how many ace people are on this site. have been on a few sites now with different cars and this 1 rules peeps. have got 2 engines to rebuild now as lukes spat its dummy out on track, which the oil presure gauge saved the crank and block, and toms thw a con rod on the way down. gutted. but wat a awsome day. would like to thank ste, and john for all thr hard work. u guys are a credit to the site and hope it yeilds som reward for your time lads. was amazing. also i told luke to try follow sparky race line as he has been on this track before, THN HE FLO PAST AT WORP 4, on the inside on the aproch into a fast right hand bend coming onto the start grid straight, we just watch in amazment as he battled the steering with his foot planted understeering it right to the right side rummble strip. at this point i said to luke u need balls the size of moon to do that shiz, just follow the evo line that was in front of us lol. HE A MAD MAN.

lol, i loved it wen u pulled up behind us on the pit exit and jumped up screaming with joy. thn told me and luke wat u did. i think i would have fell out the car and kissed the ground. u r a mad man, to go with a mad car keep it up fella. lov it.

u crazy mate. lov it, good to meet u mate and i bet that throttle body hot now, air lock i think. lov the car, i think it is a credit to your skills. good luk with uni fella chris

lol. glad u like fella, get a six speed box in it next and take it to 130mph. . quick question wer would u say the power band starts. am just asking every 1 that has this done to see wat the avrage answer is. i loved the sound difference of your exhaust mate, proper scooby doo. wat does it sound like on full chat??.

i have just been on the net to check, just incase, as u do. and i was told ages ago that it was the k20a by the hond dealer wen i got my ep3 type r so i just took it as read he seemed very confident in wat he was telling me but thn again he was only a sales man. gutted i have been telling people for ages it was the k20A oopsi. lol.

it was a track day mate, wer u go down a test drive the honda range of track cars. did not know it had the F serise engine which is still a awsome engie and the civic has the k20b which has a lesser red line thn the a. i thourght thy kept the A for the very nice S2000, but i know thy did put it in the JDM accord. cheers for the info as i have never had my spanners on 1 of these but would lov to 1 day, and yes it was full track spec running a Kpro. it was pure haven. i still dream about it. the rear wing was mahoosive.

u sort the mani fella. it will make the exhaust go nuts. lol ask redz11.

anything is possible fella, the first job wen doing these builds is to lok at wat engines can be tunned to wat extent. i have seen the 1.6 16v N/A engine taken to 290hp at 9200rpm. no joke. as for the inlet, the turbo inlet can push som pretty impresive hp. which means that it does well not to restrict air flow into the engine. if this is not the case why do the V lads not put the roller mani on, have u ever seen a turbo runnibg that mani??. so why not it gives i better bottom end. the answer is simple the turbo mani is the best 4e mani for not restricting booste presure (which is + presure)100%+volumetric eff or cylinder VF. the corrola 4e 93 on had a turbo mani fitted as standard (this was the first 4e engine i came across and started the lov afiar) with a very small TB, now when ever u see a very small TB u know that the ristriction lies thr. so change it for instant power gains. the starlet and corrola with different mani have large TB just 5mm under the turbo. so this tells me the restriction lies either in the inlet mani or like the citron and pug, a tapperd intake ducting, and im affraid its in the mani the very small plenum chamber and long runners give it away. i can not tell u how bad this mani is the plenum is far to small. wen i saw it i was angry at mr toyota!!!!. just put the mani on and u will not look back the difference is noticable so u know from that u getting arond +10-15 hp as well as great torque gains. win win win. this frees the main restriction out. so just thn go for all the other little 1s, exhaust, cams, porting and polish, ignition+earthing, fueling. a carr off the production line is made as cheap as possable. u can improve on everything. but yesterdays race engine are todays road engines, the reason is power to weight for good fuel consumption, and emmisions :relating to high comp ratios needed (high cylinder temps to burn carbon) which in turn needs stronger engine parts (forged bits). hope that all makes sence mate chris. p.s thr is no piont putting bigger injectors on the roller mani as the top end air flow just is not thr to require extra fuel. bigger injectors flow higher meaning u get more top end. and the turbo mani will not just give u top end hp gains but will totaly redifine the power band in the rpm range. if u stay with the starlet TB on the turbo mani you will get slightly better bottom end torque with a small loss top end hp (in ref to the turbo mani with the turbo TB) i would guess to see on the rollers, so this set up would suit smaller windey tracks. and tracks with long straights use the turbo TB, and gearbox. or the best of both worlds der i say 6 speed FTW.

stick with the N/A rods or get som light wieght I beam. stronger rods will not be needed for N/A tunning if u keep it under around 150hp. the idea is to thn push your rev range by balancing and de wighting all engine internals, think about it more rev range more hp. simples but in all honesty mate do not waste your time on this engine the valve configerastion and combustion chamber set up does not suit N/A proformance or high comp ratios, u will see alot better gains from the 1.6 16v. this has 45deg opposed cams which in turn leads to a pent roof chamber and 45 deg entry and exit of ports. i have seen to many 4e engines with damaged piston ring land and its on the opposite side to the flat roof exhaust valve. this tells me that thr is more presure being put on the front edge of the pistons uneven loading, and have heard of people getting bad piston slap also points to this problem. as micky said it aint hard to hit 100ps i recon. just put the turbo mani and TB on and the 5e exhaust or corrola, bigger injectors and a few other little mods and u will hit that magic figure trust me.

this car will be worth a mint in the not to distant future the K20A engine is a pedagree motor. i have tracked 1 of these and let me tell u its insane love everything about it, was down shifting at 10,000 rpm's into coners and just up shifting on exit right into same gear. amazing collectors car.

think u got the wrong end of a very large stick mate, i see wat your getting at the turbo pistons are flat top, which is much better for proformance gains than the domed N/A and much lighter. but increasing comp ratio will cause a loss in torque and increase in hp, so it will rev quicker but u can not move that imiter up with out stronger valve springs, balanced everything crank, rods pistons, lightening everything. which is pure N/A tunnng but the gains will be miner compard to a turbo. the steps i would go if i was u would be to put throttle bodies on lighten the flywheel and front pully, advance ignition timing by a little, and increase valve over lap with a adjustable pully. if you still want to go high compresstion u will need nock control, as cylinder temps will increase leading to detonation and engine failer. wat u do is go flat top like u said then skim around .6mm off the head and get the TRD .4mm head gasket i recon should put your comp ratio around 10:1 but do all measurments first and get it band on. thr is not much quench on this engine as the cylinder squish band is no existant, which is awsome for full throttle conditions and bad for cruise economy, M.O.T emmisions, and them newsence hot stall gases on the outer edge of the fuel mix (really bad for causing detonation). u might also need to run a fuel mix to increase octane, and stop the nock control retarding that ignition on every full throttle aplication. hope this gives u a in sight pal chris

yep white smoke is either fuel or water, and japan has just bin under a lot of water wen u bye this. does it miss fire check if water is getting down past your plugs.

u sort the idle out fella. looking very nice get a exhaust temp sensor in thr y not u got everything else. ;)