Idrees

Fortunately not, ID-Workz is running well and may be expending in the coming months. It's not being completely stripped - the plan is to go back to stock in terms of interior/chassis/engine and put it up for sale with some nice rims. The bodykit and FMIC will be staying along with a few more bits. I started removing parts today and it I never expected it to be such a hard task.. I'm still seriously gutted about this but at the same time I refuse to spend another penny on it.

Dean the 4AGE bolts have different thread pattern. I think the block or head is cracked. The headgakset is fine, the head is torqued'd down right, The heads not warped, but piston #1 is still getting flooded real bad. Compression test shows 160 on all 4 too, piston #1 is the only one getting wet.

Welcome to the club!

Welcome along

I have one, PM'd

Thanks mate, appreciate that! Time to say bye now, cars going almost back to stock. No critics please. PM me for any parts.

What LSD is it? As above it could be the LSD clunking.

Steve I've still not received the refund, I text you too.

It's not about cracking out the guns, I just didn't want to snap it I'll try it again then.

The settings are recommended 20lb ft, 40 and 60. The first two were fine, but the wrench wouldn't click at 60. So did the bolt back down to 40, and tried 50ft lb. Clicked fine, so tried 55 - again it clicked fine. However at 60 I gave it quite a turn but still no click. The turn from 55-60 should be the same as 50-55 right? So I don't understand why I was doing more than that turn and still not reaching 60lb ft! It wasn't just one bolt as I tried it on others too. However the stock torque settings worked fine; 22nm, 44nm and 90 degrees (with a torque angle gauge).

I'm not risking snapping another bolt

I've used the factory ones as I've heard a few people using the factory settings without a problem. I tried 60ft lb but the torque wrench just wouldn't click! So I went and bought a brand new wrench but still the same! The threads were cleaned, the bolts were cleaned and regreased with ARP grease too. I didn't fancy snapping a headbolt like I did last year so that's why I've used the factory settings.

Sweet choice

Marc, I've gone with the factory settings now. See how it goes

GT ftw - no doubt about it.

All the problems I've had? My old 4E gave me trouble a few times due to burning oil and that was due to the machine shop boring it too much. I put some pictures up to show the piston gaps, lesson learnt that I should have measured them just to check. And this is the first problem I've had with the 5E. Reusing a ZEP headgasket and ARP bolts isn't cutting corners... If you binned them then thats fair enough. I believe that the best way to learn is by giving it a go, and that's exactly what I've done. I'm not bothered about the first engine as that just helped me learn a whole load more! Do you

It's water, cleaned it all up now. The headgasket looks absolutely fine and has no wear or damage showing at all. #4 isn't distorted its just the water making it look like that. Streetracer sounds about right, that's the piston that had most water sitting on it when looking down the spark plug hole. I've refitted the head now, I'll get it running and see how it goes. Also they are ARP bolts and they don't stretch so they're good to use again.

I've noticed that piston #1 is rather clean, while the other 3 have a layer of carbon already. The engines done 1k miles and these pistons were not brand new, Oem FTE pistons that had just been cleaned. Before: 1k miles later: #1 #2 #3 #4 What could be causing this? The car isn't burning oil at all but oil and water has been mixing recently. I've reused the Zep headgasket a few times and maybe it's time for a new one, I don't want to assemble it until I know what the problem is! Cheers Idrees

Breathing mods to start with; Port the stock manifold, front mounted intercooler, decat, exhaust.

The cylinder head is back off now, suspected headgasket problem but I think it was due to not torquing the ARP headbolts enough. I was going to retorque them and put it back together but then decided to remove the head to inspect the gasket, and it's in good shape so it just needs to be put back together now.

Awesome piece of kit

Paid £45, so that's a stand pass and one session for now. I'll pay for another track session soon. 1. Ryan lang, TT x 1 - PAID 2. Jade_star - PAID 3. Mark tozer TT x 1 4. Taggy 5. kidV 6. Idrees - 1x track sessions PAID 7. Nastyrash2003 8. Liam D 9. Rhys (my buddy who looks like hes wafting a fart in taggy's vid) in his transporter 10. Electranova + 1 Passenger 11. Raffa MK TT x 1 12. Dan507 TT x 1 + 1 Passenger

Which is 81.4nm so I need to redo them. I wonder if the HG has survived..

Just had a brain wave, should the ARPs be torque'd to 60ft lb instead of 60nm? I don't have the instruction sheet so can't check, maybe I've under torqued them. Plugs are brown ish grey, and no it doesn't smell of coolant. Rad fan is on constantly. Engine has been rebuilt by us, it was a low mileage 5E-FHE when I bought it. The inlet vac pipe is on correctly, it's a 1.2mm ZEP gasket.

Hi, The Glanza has given symptoms of headgasket failure; Overheating Losing water - it's mixing with the oil Occasional white smoke Running on 3 cylinders I'm using ARP head bolts that I didn't retorque after 500 miles, so I removed the cams to retorque them now that I've done 1k miles. They were all tight (60nm) apart from the top two corner ones on either side, which were a tiny tiny bit loose (20 degrees on the torque wrench or so) So we've put the engine back together after retiming it etc, found a tiny leak on the thermostat housing so resealed that and took it for a drive today. With