StuDoc 72

Adapter plate, decat, turbo, oil feed and return.

Bit late coming to this party but heres what I discovered basically the ct12 offers nothing over the ct9 possibly a bit more torque low down. A ct9 hybrid will give you better results in comparison to a ct12 of course if the ct12 is a hybrid then I couldn't confirm but there's not many about and they are expensive to make. Basically all in all unless you have a ct12 hybrid in your possesion then don't bother just get a Tongs hybrid and go with that or use a TD04. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?70803-CT9-vs-CT12-on-a-stock-4EFTE-for-1-8-and-1-4

Correct procedure right there.

Yes mate just get a WEPR mani and de-cat. Fuck the sports cat just find an MOT'r who will turn a blind eye, or swap in the cat each year for MOT.,

First thing to do is replace the manifold before you do anything else because with that one your asking for disaster lol.

Haha fair play mate thats some price lol.

Why not get it ceramic coated?

Everything bar the wheels provisionally sold.

Parts updated grab a cracking deal!

Ive got a zisco externally gated mani here mate ramhorn style ceramic coated if your interested also got zisco decat and td04 adapter plate and td04 decat means you can go either way should the mood take you. Will do you a deal to pick up since your in glasgow PM me if your interested.

Wow If I hadn't read enough about this mob lately then this is the icing on the cake. Glad I've no intentions to ever go ear there. I feel for you mate I'm assuming your not mechanically comfortable enough to do the mani swap yourself?

Pretty sure emu facilitates it.

Basically you wind the calipers right back. Then you wind them out until you can get the brakes back together but as tight rotation as possible without them being seized. Do this both sides and while the car is still jacked up tighten the hand brake cable until you get desired clicks. While turning the wheels by hand to make sure they dont seize.

Its possibly just bedded in the pads slightly also when u put brakes together u cant get them to sit as flush as they would when compressed by a piston you could try jacking it up and either winding the caliper out again or tightening the cable aslong as the wheels still rotate when handbrake is off. That said you shouldnt have filed that off lol might happen repeatedly.

Have you tried you idle control valve? Like I said mate I think they are all ticky I know mine is. I wouldnt lose sleep over it.

All part of the service gents

If it was rebuilt did you check that they did re-tension the cam?

Im yet to see a starlet that doesn't tick

Yes mate thats all it is lol. Loosen off the cable at your lever, whip off the caliper and adjust out the piston until theres a bit of resistance when turning the disc, bolt it back up and adjust up your cable. Just make sure you dont adjust up the cable too much or the handbrake will be on even when the lever is down.

You need to wind the pistons out until the disc turns by hand but is slightly stiff. U have wound the pistons right back and then tightened your cable so essentially your handbrake is on constantly but not doing anything. Hence the tight handbrake.

That does look half decent but theres alot more work in that than it appears. Wheelbase has been lengthened.

Thats a micra. Feeding the material for ep82 owners lol.

Buy a 2nd hand one they are like 40 quid lol.

Paid

Lol like i said mate wasnt getting involved just them 2 comments were ridiculous.