Taggy

Thanks Johnboy

Are these in the UK?

this is how mine is currently hooked up and this is how it used to be on the old servo Can anyone see if i have connected it up wrong for the front and rears?

I beat him to it and built one already Have a look at my build thread below I cant wait to get back into my ep70 with 5e forged power!!!

Yeah i did think about it, but i didnt want to risk fucking it up as i have spent nearly £1700 on this build so far! I am finding out building a forged 5e is much more expensive than i thought. Ovelooked how much the machine work was going to cost, Had the head skimmed Had them fit my new valve stem seals had it chemically cleaned Had the block, bored oversize cross hatched and honed Decked Chemically cleaned Notched Had the crank measured and polished Must have spent £350 just in the machine shop!!

im fucked for getting it sorted for next week, I was on target last week building it but then I got thrown a curve ball putting it together and found out that I needed to get the block notched as the rods were catching the bottom of the block as they were going up and down. Had to pull the whole bloody thing apart again and get it back down the machine shop! Turns out you need to get it notched for pec rods on a 5e, but not on a 4e!!! Just wish someone told me that before!!!

I have since had it apart to get the block notched, so will double check the torque settings again from PEC and post them up, i'll post up more info on gapping the rings and clocking them also Build is on hold at the moment while i wait for the block to be returned to me

i believe td05 is around 5000rpm on a 4e, would be lag central! i wouldnt bother unless your gonna drag it, would ruin the driveability of the car

dont just turn it up dude without sorting the fueling out, it will go bang. Have you got the supporting mods to run more boost?

man i have smashed up so many computer mice and controllers its unreal!!!

Updated some more information

bump

clutch sold

note to self: PISTONS, PINS & RINGS SPECIFICATIONS PISTONS, PINS & RINGS TABLE Application Pistons Clearance In. (mm) Standard ........................ .0035-.0043 (.090-.110) Wear Limit ................................. .0051 (.130) Diameter (1) Size Mark "1" ............. 2.9094-2.9098 (73.900-73.910) Size Mark "2" ............. 2.9098-2.9102 (73.910-73.920) Size Mark "3" ............. 2.9102-2.9106 (73.920-73.930) Rings No. 1 End Gap Standard ....................... .0102-.0189 (.260-.480) Wear Limit ............................... .0421 (1.070) Side Cl

ah my trusty feeler guage comes to the resuce Does anyone have the ring gap specs?

Just spoke to them on the phone hes gonna deck it for me

Yeah i asked him to deck the block, but i think he must have got confused on my order as when he gave it back to me he said that he had measured the block surface and it was completly straight. I am going back down there tonight with it so I will get him to do it then Ah thanks for the info on the piston rings, i'll gap them this evening. Much appreciate the criticisim on the build as it helps me with anything i have done incorrectly. If you see anything else I havent done right please point it out!!!

I torqued them down to the original engine specs in the 5e manual, there were no settings supplied with the PEC rods.

Hi Ricky Thanks for posting up with this, its a bit of a bearmoth of a write up so I knew i was going to miss bits out! I will add in a section about tolerances when i get some more pics, i am gonna clean the head up a bit more too, i assumed it would come up shiney as it went though the chemical wash, nothing a bit of elbow greese cant fix to shine that up. As for the rest I should of mentioned I had the machine shop check all the tolerances for me, this included specing the bores to the crib sheet with the forged oversize pistons, measuring the bearings which were standard size and appropi

Its coming along, its full of spelling mistakes and maybe some errors but if anyone spots anything let me know and i will edit it. Had to cut it short last night as the bloody block needs notching, i didnt think it needed to be done with the PEC rods, gutted, oh well will continue with it on the weekend

Taggys Dummies guide to building a forged 4e/5efte engine (same applies for stock engine) How to build a 5E - FTE engine from scratch Index Introduction Parts required Machine shop work Tolerances on critical engine parts Bottom end assembly Introduction So you consider your self a dummy but are keen to build engines and save your self some wonga, then read on. With this guide anyone should be able to build an engine who can follow my instuctions. Its not a black art and is actually fairly easy. Most of it is just knowing the correct procedure for everything I am documenting this

You should get one like mine

If its jumping its because the speedo cable is worn, you can get a replacement on here for about £15, just need to pull your clocks out and unscrew it from the back and the gearbox, refeed it through and screw back on. Fairly easy job

For sale: 4EFTE Block only with Caps Item Condition: Good Price and price conditions: 45 quid Extra Info: Came out of a working engine Pictures: Contact Details: PM me Location: Swansea Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: This is heavy as hell, i would prefer you collected it, if not i can send it at the buyers expense, will be about £18 to post

obviously its had some work done to it at some point in its life, probably an overhaul