Taggy

yeah definetly check them, i couldnt believe it when i seen number 2 was shagged too!! Imagine you put it back together and it was still fucked!!!

Nice one socks, thats what i needed to hear, i have been going mad for the last couple of hours wondering what way to go lol and weejohn is right with the costs spiraling to get it all done with oversize pistons. It only needs to last the summer so i have time to build up the 5e while i am using it, Ok BACK ON TRACK!! lol a good hone and then james pistons in! lets go Out of curisoity has anyone had their block honed while in the car?

i am trying to come up with a plan now on what to do, i have got my 5e in bits ready for the conversion if i want to take the plunge and buy all the parts, or i can get this one rebored and stick it back together. It depends if i can get all the parts cheap enough, i dont think i pull a grand out from no where that easy and ontop of that i have a track day looming end of april!

Ah fuck the sage continues, i dropped the other 3 pistons out today and i have found another ringland fucked on number 2. So thats two screwed pistons. And although the ringland hasnt scored the barrel, i have found an unrelated problem with the bore, its worn really werid on the top quarter of the cylinder and it has a made a 360 degree ridge which you can catch your finger nail on, its hardly anything but it now HAS to be honed to get rid of it, what the hell has caused that, take a look. Another fooked piston The bore has worn really weird on no.2, any ideas, it goes all around the entire piston and its slightly ridged.

I need the tolerance specs for piston rings bores crank bearings, big ends etc.

Hi Been talking to my local engineering workshop who do all the local block work and hes mentioned to me to consider using piston rings from the manufacturer "Hastings piston rings" a large USA manufacturer whos been making them since 1918. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ He says he sends them all over the UK for other people with performance cars and that they about £65 compared to about £110 with toyota. Has anyone used them before?

yeah join the club took me about 2 months to find one on gumtree, I have got a set of 5e rods i can sell you if your interested though, I dont need them as I am forging mine.

i did a conversion in my ep70, a 1985 starlet with a GT loom, so its pritty much the same thing your doing. The loom looks a complete nightmare when you first look at as its so bloody confusing, but once you know which sections do what and where it fits, then it gets easier. As yours is a bare shell it should be pritty simple to lay it out. Although wouldnt it be easier to just buy a glanza, i would have thought the conversion would be an expensive and difficult one to do!

ha ha yes, we are definetly older!! At least the car is a similar age to me

Well the loom is split into 3 main sections, the engine bay section, the rear of the dash and then the rear of the car which does the fuel pump rear electrics etc. You can pull the loom apart into these 3 main bits so you can get work with it easier. As a rough guess I assume you need to remove the current loom in the car and replace it with the glanza loom. You may even be lucky and the other two parts of the loom may be the same plugs so you will only need to change out the engine part of the loom. Anyone else know?

Shit i'll have to give the old bird a bit of a polish, not so sure how shiney i can make the gold look!

So am i gonna be the only one rocking an ep70 at the show then

i cant believe the turn out this year, how many did we have last year? The stand is going to be massive!!

yes its normal to get a small amount of air out of either the breather or filler cap, you shouldnt get any noticeable vapour and also no oil coming out of it either. I only noticed there was a problem with mine because every time i opened the bonnet i noticed it had blown the cap off the breather on top of the rocker cover. I am just glad it shouldnt be to hard to fix, touch wood! Its just a bit labour intensive, so if you didnt do it your self you would be looking at quite an expensive repair bill!

Ai good advice, i was thinking the same, gonna pull the other 3 out anyway as the piston rings come in packs of 4 so they have to come out either way. I'll visually check them for any hairline cracks and if they are good ill pop them back in with new rings and a charitable donation of a piston I suspect the problems i have been having over the past month with boost spiking due to a faulty actuator are to blame, i was seeing peaks of 1.5 bar a few times not good! probably stressed the piston ringland and popped it.. I can see why people put forged ones in now, the ringland is a really weak section of the piston as its such a thin bit of metal. Oh well this has been a good education lesson at least for my forged build

I think it has to be the same size though, mine have 2 stamped into all 4 of them, which i think indicates what size they are. Could you check yours for me

Hey socks do you reckon i should repair it like james says, new piston, rings, headgasket and bolts? How much for the piston?

Was off work today after coming back from a stag party on the weekend, so thought i would crack on repairing my car to get it ready for japfest. I was getting excessive air/oil coming out my top breather and a scooby kinda engine note aside from this the car ran the same. But i was advised a cracked ringland was probably at fault by socks so told me to sort it asap. So thats what i did today : I estimated it would take about 4 hours, and did it in 3:30 but i was really methodical and took my time, especially with the parts. Here is the first video i posted in case you missed it of the symptoms [media]http://youtu.be/87J3eKxsE_w Just pulled the head off and checked the valves and bore [media]http://youtu.be/g32z_Y1ZS7Q Pulling the piston out and inspecting it for the first time [media]http://youtu.be/Gdk4A7ryi-k Once i took the rings off a big chunk fell off! What do you think i should do now in terms of repair, i dont want to spend shit loads on this engine as im building a 5e in addition to this engine, but i do need to fix it to use until the end of the track season 2012, i was wondering what people do when they do a repair on one of these faults. Do i just buy a new piston, head gasket and head bolts and put it back together, or should i also change the rings while i have them off, or should i replace all 4 pistons? What is the recomended practice for a repair such as this, I want it to be reliable but at the same time dont want to spend an arm and a leg as ultimately the 5e will go in come end of the track season. Another thing what the hell has caused this, my car definetly wasnt detonating, so i am a bit confused, maybe age?

wanking brilliant!!

My dilema is either repair mine for about 200 quid if its just the rings, but I have to realise my engine is still 15 years old, or buy yours which has had a recent rebuild and is fresh. How come your selling it?

This is so tempting its unreal

Thanks Asad, thats the bit i wasnt sure on oh well thats that one miffed then, turns out changing just the rings isnt as cheap as i thought! Piston rings x 4 - £105.66 Head gasket - £42.83 Head bolts - £56.99

If i change my piston rings in a complete engine which is the best way to do it, the engine will be out, but should i take the head off and push them out the bottom. Or should i just take out the crank its self and remove them from the bottom, saving my self having to remove the head and buy new head bolts and head gasket which will save me not far off £200? What you think?

Ah i know i am gutted, its a massive job to change them too, what a complete cahooontt!!

It does but i also need to pull out over a grand from somewhere to do it and its a bit short notice!