mech5107

The sell only the cartridge...should be more cost effective than servicing.

Bought a SARD regulator of him. Excellent price, fast shipping. Worth mentioning that the package was triple packaged!!!(A bubble bag, inside a bubble bag, inside a bubble bag). Glad to do business with you mate!

I'm very interested in a pic of this gauge... Could you take one and post it here?

Does it look like this? http://www.google.gr/imgres?safe=off&sa=X&biw=1600&bih=775&tbm=isch&tbnid=MQS5Nd53CyBcZM:&imgrefurl=http://elitejdm.com/cat/45/&docid=R2S-7Ze-F154aM&imgurl=http://www.elitejdm.com/productimages/electronicsandgauges/ElectricBoostControllers/00165_1.jpg&w=800&h=500&ei=4YYUUp77L7LT7AaegIHIBw&zoom=1&ved=1t:3588,r:66,s:0,i:287&iact=rc&page=3&tbnh=173&tbnw=278&start=55&ndsp=27&tx=120&ty=60 I have never seen any electronic (digital) hks boost meter...

If it is a 4bolt flange to the manifold and not a bolted on flange on the compressor exit, then it is probably the diesel turbo, good upgrade over standar. Either possibility to be a hybrid... Post some pics...

Does it have any lettering on it? You could use it as it should, boost controller, if you find an actuator...

I think you have part of an. HKS boost controller. Post a pic to see it.

Is your rear brakes working? I know it sounds stupid, but if the auto-adjusting/winding mechanism in the caliper is not working, then there would be no handbrake...

Hand brake cable are totaly different between drums and disks, so this is not the case here. There is a screw in the side of the hand brake level. Have tou adjusted this? Also, the short cable from the level to the junction thingy that the actual cables are mounted is in good condition?

R888 are good, R1R are better for street drag races. Hoosier and M/T are making slicks for 15"...

No, there is no movement in the dizzy, except for the rotor arm. The ecu collapses the magnetic field in the coil just some degrees before or after TDC. The rotor arm is in touch with each post for a range of degrees, so while ignition advanced or retarded, it is still able to deliver the spark. Inertial or vacuum induced movement was something that oldschool carbed cars used.

If you suspect air leak, then get a carb cleaner spray and spray in the aeria you suspect. If rpm change (probably bog down) then that's where the leak is located.

I used an angle grinder to slowly cut the sleeve and then with a chisel pry it open.

Try take out the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body and spray some carb cleaner. Then put it back and adjust for hot idle at ~900rpm. Is it automatic? If so, change all the fluids and filter of the autobox. New sparks, oil and filter for the engine and should run sweet!

Does the pipes have the bead to hold the hoses?

You are legend! That's the shop i had found myself... Intresting enough, i tried rspec in google and didn't worked as it should... Thanks again!

Looking for inline vacuum filters, 6 and 4mm diameter for my HKS boost controller. looks like the inline filter going to the standard map sensor. Do you know any online shop? I had found something some time ago but can't find it now...

Did you changed the oil recently? Maybe a drip when filling up causing this smell.

would you ship to Greece?

It is small, but would do the job... Don't let it stay long with lights on, radio, etc without engine running...

Could you let me know the dimensions of the intercooler?

Sard regulator still available?

If you are going to break it, then i could be interested in some parts, like intercooler setup.

I'm using this EBC, i'm using the learning process. It's spooling ~500rpm faster, but still creaps a bit. I'm using it @0.85bar, goes to tad over 0.9 in 4th and 5th gear.

Mine does this sometimes, it's due to fuel cut. Do you have a wideband on it?