mech5107

Upper are black racing. I have them, 5kg each and very tough... I've hit many holes and they didn't have any issue.

The intake that you are talking about looks good compromise between Stock and a fully custom one. To be honest, I think (judjing only from the pics somebody posts) that most aftermarket intakes are not that well designed. It greatly depends on the full package setup, but that's the idea I get. Do you want something really good? Use 5efhe one, along with 5efhe cams and an rpm activated switch. Fit everything and do a couple dyno pulls to see the results and tune the rpm activation. I've seen over 20hp gain over stock intake, on a T25 turbo forged engine.

In case you want to upgrade the ignition with the ms3, get a set of used ls gm coils. These are good up to 500hp. Maybe could reuse also the stock spark wires. These coils have build in ignitor, so you need only the ignition command from the ecu. Could also change the stock coil to a single ls coil if keeping distributor but going ms3

You can remove the actuator and fasten the port arm with some safety wire to the rest of the turbo or downpipe. You can also weld the stoct actuator closed so it cannot move.

It's normal. Mine only gets to midway if pushing for some time...

What Ecu have you ordered? I would say that a good condition stock system is enough for the 4e.

Why to do this? If the trigger wheels in the distributor are the same as 4efte, then, ecu will run it fine. Why to do this? If the trigger wheels in the distributor are the same as 4efte, then, ecu will run it fine.

You will need all the gt setup...calipers, disks, brackets and uprights/hubs.

How it's possible for an old turbo car to do under 6l/100klm? There's no way I can do this and I'm not boosting and always cruising at lamda of 1. Best I've done is 7.8l/100klm.

Yeah... I'm looking for something really cheap if its China made. Otherwise I would like a good offer for a branded one..

Anyone? Still looking for a gate...

I usually get 420km with a tank driving half in highway and the rest in the city...my tank is 35 litre. That's 8.3l/100klm, which is 29mpg. How the hell can you get 50+mpg? Are you running too lean?

Why don't you just rotate it?

Yes

Looking for any external, but cheap. Even China made, but with guaranty that it works as it should.

NA diameter is 238mm. Turbo is 254mm. Also caliper piston size is bigger. There are some cars that don't have the caliper mounting tabs like most EPs. If you have the normal upright then it will fit just fine.

Sorry, i have the one with out the hazard switch only...i think late spec model (1988-1989)

I might have the cowling? Which type do you need?

Normal idle is 850+-50rpm as per toyota. Adjust to this, in diagnostic mode, fully warmed-up, no electrical load.

Mine idles at 2300 when cold (0 degrees). Around 1700 when summer time.

There is usually an option to use either 5v or 12v in the tacho output. I run my ep71 cluster, through my haltech E6X, without any resistor or trick. Just square wave and 12v.

For sure things are not that complicated. The stock tach does run from the igf signal, but this is just a square wave signal. You just need to configure the tacho output in the omex software.

AEM is not the most accurate one...nor the fastest...it's just easy to install, cheap, trouble free and accurate enough...so it's the best one...

Did you had an oil pressure gauge...? The stock pump has very high flow for the needs of the 4efte engine...that's why these engines have so much oil return to the sump, in comparison with other engines. So even if the stock pump is bit worn, the pressure, at least at higher rpm whould be at the normal numbers. But if the main bearing tolerances are not measured and corrected, then oil pressure will never be the right one...

Are you willing to sell some of them seperately?