AdamB

Thats been up for quite some time, looks lush though.

They are good, not all cheap but if you want good genuine parts then you have to pay the prices.

Do a compression test mate! Would always recommend it on these engines which are known for ringland failure.

Just fill the box till it starts coming back out the plug. 3L is enough. Engine oil, just keep topping it up until you reach the correct mark on the dipstick, the less oil the better performance as it reduces the drag on the crankshaft

Its possible a rod bolt had wiggled its way loose, came away from the crank and smashed the block. Seen this happen quite a few times. Only real way to know is to strip it down and inspect the components.

Looks like a Time Attack starlet now

PWR, Perrin, Garrett are some of the best cores available, although if your looking for a kit then these won't be an option.

Another one bites the dust Bad luck dude, don't let it put you off though!

Depends what LSD you have. Quaife recommend the stock gearbox oil. For something like a clutch type you will need a good 75w90 with possibly a friction modifier. 10w40 semi is fine, but will need a more regular change than that of a fully synth oil. 5w30, 5w40, 10w40 will all be fine for our climate here.

I'm sure Chris is able to get it on a dyno.

Lambo orange, or a kawasaki green me thinks. Could try a Takata green but its a bit duller than a kawasaki green.

Can't even take photo's the right way up

Does this run and drive fine? Anything it needs for an MOT? Seriously interested and have cash waiting.

These done by Owen Developments? Seen they been doing a lot of Subaru flanged turbo's at the mo with custom stuff

Be interesting to see how this goes fella!

Im due a nice big fat juicy payout this year. Worked out last month to be owed like £1200, I've been paid since then so I'll be claiming that back in April! Get my tax code changed as well before they rip anymore money out my ass.

In terms of giving a driver confidence I think you'll find FWD is faster. Unless your experienced enough or a racing driver and know how to handle a RWD setup, the average Joe going on a track day will prefer FWD. Putting power down is all dependent on chassis setup.

If the head had been skimmed, you may have a warped blocked, if that wasn't skimmed at the same time that is.

If you wanted a newer more equiped car, why would you even be looking at a starlet? A starlet is just a tin can, track/drag toy that will beat most. A £5k starlet would kill an Evo/Skyline/Scooby of similar price at track or strip. The fact is FWD is more predictable than RWD or 4WD, therefore makes it faster. Even in the paws of your dog.

Here mate: http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-diesel-tech-articles/19144-lets-talk-turbo-inducers-exducers.html The A/R is just the trim of the turbo which can be found by measuring the inducer and exducer of the wheels.

Chris@CCM has the software to map these, you tried him bud?

Don't think you have to remove the front bumper. Theres bolts along the wing inside the engine bay, there may also be some under the splash guard on the wheel arch.

Measure the compressor diameter mate. Or measure the compressor inducer and exducer if you can. Also do the same for the turbine side as it will most likely have work done here as well if its some kind of hybrid. Let me know the sizes and I'll have a look around for you to see what mix match of a turbo you have

It really depends on your budget. But if your not too worried about a budget and want it to be reliable you may aswell go for a full recon, not that expensive if you do it yourself. The only things you'll need to take care of is: Make sure the cams are tensioned upon removal Measure valve guides and valve stems for wear (replace if necessary) Measure valve clearence to determine correct shim thickness Everything else is pretty much norm for any gasket replacement. Don't worry much about keeping the engine non-interference. The stock headgasket is 1mm thick, and the stock

Orange