AdamB

Just done a quick search over on TGTT and found that it is laggier than the vf24, but if you bolt on a VF35 turbine housing you can reduce the lag. Check here for more info on the VF series turbo's, last post. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?82370-IHI-VF22-30-34-vs-TD05-20G&highlight=vf30

Depends which tuner you take it to Td04 at 1 bar seems the norm for reliability these days.

Thats WeeJohn's starlet mate. His 4paw, 240hp.

Exactly what I was thinking, tempted to buy it and just go and re-wire it and drive it away lol. Obviously can't be that easy though.

Then buy my kit

top

Audi RS6

Needs bigger boobs to imo.

I've always been told to set the car up so that it always pulls slightly towards the curb.

Thats beautiful!

Chances are you will get boost creep mate as it makes the engine more efficient. Best thing to do if you relocate the filter, is to cover up half of it or port the wastegate penny.

63 what? Internal diameter makes no difference. Ideally you want a filter with the largest possible surface area,however if you do this and are not external gate you will get boost creep.

They are a bit of a personal experience thing tbh. They may suit your driving style,they may not.

She was100% win. I love the Scottish accent as well, its tough being so southern lol.

24 is stiffer than 22, and a stiffer front encourages understeer.

I wouldn't say they are mate, the hub may have been swapped so your best counting it.

I checked out Grants build thread and he's managed to mount his 044 in the boot along with a swirl pot also, this is probably the best option unless wanting to have all the fueling components in the engine bay like you say. Have heard the 044 is pretty noisy, will most likely increase the wire size going to it as it will draw more current than the stock or walbro pump. I'm tempted to make up a little box tray to house the swirl pot and external pump, much like a battery tray at the rear of the car then I can have the fuel lines through a hole and run under the car. Incase of any disaster atleast fuel will be enclosed rather than the possiblilty of it spewing all over the cabin.

Yes but you will need to swap the ABS hub ring if you want to retain it. Also you will have to make sure the splines on the CV joint are the correct amount to go into your hub.

I'll let my dad know mate, he may want another lol. Edit: He said hes interested, how much you want for it?

Theres not the same pressure going to the catch can all the time at a constant rate. You do remove pressure from the crankcase, but the way I see it, if the catch can doesn't become pressureized then gas is going back and fourth from the valve cover until the catch can is full with shit and it has no more volume to fill. If you use a 3 port can, both valve cover fittings to the can. Then the 3rd port to the intake mani through a PCV. Once the catch can gets to a certain pressure the PCV will open and allow the excess gas to escape. Remember we are not trying to catch air, but oil and carbon build up to stop contaminating the intake air charge. The catch can just have 2 ports and a port for an atmospheric dump, or filter on the top if you wish but this doesn't allow the can to hold any pressure and will just distribute the excess shit straight into the atmosphere. Which it is just cheaper and easier to have both valve cover breathers with a bit of silicone pipe strapped down behind the engine pointing towards the floor.

It pressureizes the catch can so that you get no back pressure going back to the cover fittings during pulsation, this pressure then forces the gas back into the intake when the PCV is overcome.

You got a bargain then mate

I wouldn't advise running a catch can withno breather or dump to atmosphere as it will end up being pressureized and blow to shit. What I would say is too: 3 way catch can- Both rocker fittings to catch can then the 3rd port back to the inlet with the PCV inbetween. This allows both fittings to breath to the catch tank yet it won't be pressureized as it will recirc it back to the inlet, only when the pressure overcomes that of the one way PCV. Don't think you'll be getting the oil sludge back to the intake eitheras it will fall the the bottom of the catch can, best to line it with some wool or baffling.

They are pretty damn fucking rare over here as people arn't prepared to pay such a huge price tag for a filler cap. Think my dad paid £180 for a brand new one and then £110 for one which was slightly used and had a few marks. My dad uses both on his RB engine, one for the filler cap and he has a ARC catch tank which uses the same thread lol. If I remember rightly they only fit RB and SR engines, unless you fancy getting a custom tank made just to run one of these. I was going to helicoil the oil filler thread just so I could run one as he offered me one cheap. The E series filler is larger than the thread for these caps.

Thanks for the info Harry, I wanted to run a swirl pot just to combat fuel starvation and its hassle when only running the one intank pump unless the tank is baffled which is a pain and more costly than just using a simple swirl pot. I'll take that onboard and weigh up the options The solid lifters are from the Toyota Yaris and not that costly at all mate. The part number for them if your interested is : 13751-23310. Yeah I do know Spuddys motor, that was an option I thought of but it seemed to make the bay quite untidy. Thanks for the mention though! Spuddy is using methanol though which has a 50% oxygen content, and therefore requires AFR as rich as 4:1, Im not quite going to that extent yet, although I may fancy using some race fuel later on.