AdamB

£8k for a well spec'd starlet is a fair price imo, after spending nearly £8k on my own car and its not even anywhere near built yet, £8k for a full spec machine is a bargain. The problem is that it's only worth what someone is willing to pay, and in this day and age people expect things for nothing. It's only the true enthusiasts that understand and realise what these cars are worth and they are the only people likely to spend such amounts. Someone whos just looking to buy a GT/Glanza when they have seen other shit bags for sale for 1500 they are going to expect the same.

Have no idea in terms of rad pipes being hard or soft tbh. Be better off doing some sort of test to verify if there is a issue or not. Most garages will be able to do a CO test, only takes 30 seconds to do. And a compression test takes 5 mins.

A compression test will not show up very small combustion leakage. You will need a leak down test or a CO test to determine how well the gasket is sealing. You will find the headgasket will have gone a small amount if you remove the head.

Do a CO test mate. Take a bit of the coolant and it will change colour (to green I think) if there is any presence of CO, this indicates a headgasket failing/failure.

Jeez thats a cheap build! My dads 600whp R33 cost £100k to build! Although it is an HKS stroker kit. Wonder how long the stock 6 speed getrag would last at that sort of power. Bargain to be had though! I've seen some importers ask for triple that for 800bhp+.

Prob around 1.2 bar. depends on the fuel pressure. But no more than 4 bar of fuel pressure otherwise it becomes hard to control the injectors.

2nd that!

Theres no real need for a 90mm size, its way too large and will make it run like a sack of shit. 70mm is good for like 600bhp. But if he's adament for 90mm then try Zisco or Ricky@Racetech.

X2 be gentle lol.

Dyno is just a tuning tool, nothing more. Numbers are over rated.

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If only they were 15's glws dude.

Depends if your going to stick with the td04 tbh. You can always throw like a 1.6mm headgasket on the stock engine with some ARP headbolts. Should be good for like 1.3 bar on the td04 with a good map. How long it lasts is another question though.

I'm glad he didn't pay 3200 for it! Looks awesome though.

Does the JDM 100ps engine not run a higher compression ratio? Or is that extra like 12hp gained just by different mani's?

If the CTS is unplugged it will make the car run pretty shit. There are two different types I believe early GT and late GT/glanza. You can just swap the sensor around with the correct one to fit your loom. Not sure if thats the plug but looks familier, its been a while since I've been under the bonnet of my car lol. Heres the sensor : http://www.camskill.co.uk/m19b0s1301p50351/TOYOTA_OE_GENUINE_PARTS_-_Engine_Coolant_Temperature_Sender_-_Starlet_Turbo_05_1997_onwards Or http://www.camskill.co.uk/m19b0s1301p48340/TOYOTA_STARLET_TURBO_%28EP82_EP91%29_-_SERVICING_PARTS_TUNING_SPARES_an

Have you had it checked on a rolling road recently? I've known quite a few Walbro's to fail. The IAT is in the intake manifold, the CTS is in the thermostat housing (green plug iirc)

Have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? It could be that if your running the standard pump, it is failing at that sort of fuel pressure.

I would not be trusting a td05 on standard management.

10w40, 5w40 for engine. Gearbox usually 75w90

Intake air temp and coolant temp. Whats your setup?

You only need to worry about the fueling at WOT unless you have a good programmable management system. Check the IAT, CTS and TPS.

You can run the car without one no problem. Funny old things. If it was a wideband however, different story.

Have you tried removing the EBC from the situation and just run base spring pressure bud? If your running 0 gain anyway I doubt it will be the controller. Have you turned the boost down to 0 on the dsbc or have you switched it to the - - - - position as this is technically off.

Personally I prefer a higher compression engine than a low one.