AdamB

Problem comes when uprated cv joints are fitted, the strain is then ttransfered elsewhere. This could then end up twisting the shaft itself as the next weak point. Its obviously cheaper to replace a joint than a whole shaft, hence why components are designed this way.

Sorry mate only got 5E specs, the 4EFTE is the same as the 4EFE if you can find a manual for it.

As little as possible. What engine is it for?

I believe the commander is specific to the ecu. They are rare to find on their own as they only get sold with the ecu over here. Best bet is to check the jap auctions.

Sound mate, I'll take that. Can you hold it until the GB on the thermostats end and can send at the same time? If possible mate.

Does the Cusco Panhard have rose joints at both ends mate?

No need to change the injectors mate, they are good for around 240bhp. No gains to be had by changing them, other than the duty cycle can be reduced.

If you want good spool and max power of around 220bhp, look at the Greddy Td04 14B. Quite hard to find but theres a chap over on TGTT selling one brand new ;) The problem is with ct9's is not the compressor side at all. Its the turbine, it is so restricted in its flow that it chokes the compressor. If possible, the ct9 would make a great hybrid if the turbine wheel was larger and had a different housing. This would allow the ct9 to be much more efficient and increase its flow map area, by being able to rotate the turbine faster.

Stick me down for one Mike

I believe only HKS dealers are able to map them as they are the only ones who are given the software to do so. I would recommend Austec.

Turning it down is leaner, but running 4.5 bar fuel pressure on standard boost is just washing the bores of fuel. I would also recommend to change the oil, or pull the dipstick and have a sniff to see if it stinks of fuel. I would advise to get it checked on a wideband though.

Type R coils are cheap enough to pick up anyway really, I've seen some go on ebay for like £50 for a set of four. As long as the wiring is long enough its a good buy, be a bit shit if its not and you have to start chopping and splicing the loom.

Thats the one. Not sure on the thread size though I'm afraid.

I'm not sure if the Depo widebands can be used with aftermarket ecu's tbh, that would be something that should be on their website or a dealer of their products should know. If your able to just swap the plug connections on the loom to the plugs to suit the sensors you plan on running then thats sweet. I would double check the pinout on the ecu to make sure the sensors are connected to the correct pins on the ecu. If the ignition coils are wired up in singles that is setup to run direct fire/coil on plug so if it ran type r coils, and thats what you plan on using you won't have to touch it,

The cam sensor you can use the stock sensor mate. It is an inductive type so not as accurate, but it does the job! I do have the wiring diagram for it somewhere. With the throttle body, I've heard the Skyline GTR throttle body is virtually a direct fit to the 4E/5E intake manifold, if your going for an aftermarket inlet it may be more tricky, but the manufacturer should be able to supply a sensor to fit their throttle. I personally wouldn't run a fuel pressure sensor, its ok to have as a fail safe, but not needed as if the pump every starts to fail you will notice on the wideband. And theres

I've seen a picture before where on the oil filer housing there is a bolt, remove this bolt and place the sensor in there. I'll see if I can find the pic.

Drop me a pm Dave and we can talk about it more mate. I can't wait till the end of the month so I can get my "secret" turbo kit on the go lol. What do you wanna know about the sensors mate?

I think it can be done, but don't know anyone who has it running successfully. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?95585-D.I.Y-coil-on-plug Check post #4.

Depends on the turbo really Shaun, personally I wouldn't be looking to run 2.5 bar on the road, I would stick to 2 bar max, save 2.5 bar for drag days. Remember its alright having the turbo to produce that boost, but its also going to take longer to reach it. If you stick to 2 bar max I would say 1.2mm-1.4mm headgasket will be sufficient enough for your needs, and since your 5e you will have the bottom end torque as well

If its going to be a track car I would advise using Wiseco pistons where their piston-wall clearence is larger, since your engine temp is going to be much higher on track, the metal is going to expand further. What turbo will you be using? Its important to try and keep the turbo in its efficiency range as its the cold air that makes power. On track I would be looking for a fairly high compression ratio engine with a good standalone engine management system, probably run a 1.2mm headgasket, but run ARP headstuds and main studs from the 4AGE to keep a good clamping force. Again its all down to

If your looking to run 2.5 bar at the max, I would suggest a 1.4-1.6mm headgasket. It also varies on the pistons you are going to use. If your using Wossner/Ross where they are fairly flat tops, I would probably go for a 1.6mm. Wiseco pistons have a large dish on them so you could get away with a low compression ratio without having to go for the next size up gasket. It really depends on what your mapper is comfortable with really, and how you want it to drive. If you want lots of mid range power your going to want as much ignition advance in the low-mid range area of the map. If its an out a

Always allow for a factor of safety and you can't go wrong. When I originally calculated what injectors, my fuel flow was up around the 780cc area because I didn't want to run anymore than 3 bar fuel pressure. May change my mind now so I can get cheaper injectors lol. Glad its helpful. Whats your max boost you plan on running? What fuel octane do you have available to you? Whats the car going to be used for?

Horsepower from fly mate. Essentially the flywheel horsepower is the Actual power the engine is making. The wheel horsepower is what is actually put down to the ground.

As an engine builder/ student designer most would tend not to go above 4 bar fuel pressure. I myself still find this a little high and try to keep it as low as possible. There is no need to go up an injector size UNLESS your injectors do not flow the required amount of fuel at 4 bar fuel pressure, or in my preferable case 3.5 bar fuel pressure. It is exact, you just have to be wise in how you use it. You could if you wanted to, use injectors which flow 550cc per min at 3.2 bar fuel pressure, this may mean your injector duty cycle is at 95% though and they could burnt out under high rev'ing co

It is completely correct fuel flow mate. I would advise if you were looking to "add on a bit" then to ensure that your horsepower target is higher than it is actually going to be, for example I knew Shaun was going for 350bhp, so say 400bhp for a safety margin and also the injector duty cycle at 90%, some injectors can be run at 95%, but thats the chance you take Also take into account that fuel flow changes with temperature, hence why you get more fuel from a petrol pump in cold mornings So ensuring that your duty cycle has around 5-10% leeway before the injectors start max'ing out is a g