AdamB

As little as possible. What engine is it for?

I believe the commander is specific to the ecu. They are rare to find on their own as they only get sold with the ecu over here. Best bet is to check the jap auctions.

No need to change the injectors mate, they are good for around 240bhp. No gains to be had by changing them, other than the duty cycle can be reduced.

If you want good spool and max power of around 220bhp, look at the Greddy Td04 14B. Quite hard to find but theres a chap over on TGTT selling one brand new ;) The problem is with ct9's is not the compressor side at all. Its the turbine, it is so restricted in its flow that it chokes the compressor. If possible, the ct9 would make a great hybrid if the turbine wheel was larger and had a different housing. This would allow the ct9 to be much more efficient and increase its flow map area, by being able to rotate the turbine faster.

I believe only HKS dealers are able to map them as they are the only ones who are given the software to do so. I would recommend Austec.

Turning it down is leaner, but running 4.5 bar fuel pressure on standard boost is just washing the bores of fuel. I would also recommend to change the oil, or pull the dipstick and have a sniff to see if it stinks of fuel. I would advise to get it checked on a wideband though.

Type R coils are cheap enough to pick up anyway really, I've seen some go on ebay for like £50 for a set of four. As long as the wiring is long enough its a good buy, be a bit shit if its not and you have to start chopping and splicing the loom.

Thats the one. Not sure on the thread size though I'm afraid.

I'm not sure if the Depo widebands can be used with aftermarket ecu's tbh, that would be something that should be on their website or a dealer of their products should know. If your able to just swap the plug connections on the loom to the plugs to suit the sensors you plan on running then thats sweet. I would double check the pinout on the ecu to make sure the sensors are connected to the correct pins on the ecu. If the ignition coils are wired up in singles that is setup to run direct fire/coil on plug so if it ran type r coils, and thats what you plan on using you won't have to touch it, as long as the wiring is long enough. You can set the firing order in the ecu software I believe mate.

The cam sensor you can use the stock sensor mate. It is an inductive type so not as accurate, but it does the job! I do have the wiring diagram for it somewhere. With the throttle body, I've heard the Skyline GTR throttle body is virtually a direct fit to the 4E/5E intake manifold, if your going for an aftermarket inlet it may be more tricky, but the manufacturer should be able to supply a sensor to fit their throttle. I personally wouldn't run a fuel pressure sensor, its ok to have as a fail safe, but not needed as if the pump every starts to fail you will notice on the wideband. And theres a sensor your missing from the list lol. Wideband to allow closed loop control. The innovate widebands are awesome but can be a bit hefty on the price tag. Are you going to be running a boost controller or are you wanting the ecu to control boost? You'll need a boost solenoid, something like what comes with the Apexi AVCR, think they are around £70 last time I looked.

I've seen a picture before where on the oil filer housing there is a bolt, remove this bolt and place the sensor in there. I'll see if I can find the pic.

Drop me a pm Dave and we can talk about it more mate. I can't wait till the end of the month so I can get my "secret" turbo kit on the go lol. What do you wanna know about the sensors mate?

I think it can be done, but don't know anyone who has it running successfully. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?95585-D.I.Y-coil-on-plug Check post #4.

Depends on the turbo really Shaun, personally I wouldn't be looking to run 2.5 bar on the road, I would stick to 2 bar max, save 2.5 bar for drag days. Remember its alright having the turbo to produce that boost, but its also going to take longer to reach it. If you stick to 2 bar max I would say 1.2mm-1.4mm headgasket will be sufficient enough for your needs, and since your 5e you will have the bottom end torque as well

If its going to be a track car I would advise using Wiseco pistons where their piston-wall clearence is larger, since your engine temp is going to be much higher on track, the metal is going to expand further. What turbo will you be using? Its important to try and keep the turbo in its efficiency range as its the cold air that makes power. On track I would be looking for a fairly high compression ratio engine with a good standalone engine management system, probably run a 1.2mm headgasket, but run ARP headstuds and main studs from the 4AGE to keep a good clamping force. Again its all down to your mapper whos comfortable with setting up an engine of this calibre. If I was going to build a dedicated track car I would be using a 4e engine, with Wiseco pistons, pauter rods, ARP headstuds and main studs, 1.2mm headgasket and look for a compression ratio of around 8.4-8.5:1. If your budget stretches far enough even look into some mild cams which will help draw in more air higher up in the rev range.

If your looking to run 2.5 bar at the max, I would suggest a 1.4-1.6mm headgasket. It also varies on the pistons you are going to use. If your using Wossner/Ross where they are fairly flat tops, I would probably go for a 1.6mm. Wiseco pistons have a large dish on them so you could get away with a low compression ratio without having to go for the next size up gasket. It really depends on what your mapper is comfortable with really, and how you want it to drive. If you want lots of mid range power your going to want as much ignition advance in the low-mid range area of the map. If its an out and out drag car your going to want power at the top end of the rev range so go for a thicker gasket to reduce the compression ratio. My car is a 5e, looking to run 2.1 bar max boost pressure, and going to run an 8.5:1 CR as I want it to be super responsive, and not much lag.

Always allow for a factor of safety and you can't go wrong. When I originally calculated what injectors, my fuel flow was up around the 780cc area because I didn't want to run anymore than 3 bar fuel pressure. May change my mind now so I can get cheaper injectors lol. Glad its helpful. Whats your max boost you plan on running? What fuel octane do you have available to you? Whats the car going to be used for?

Horsepower from fly mate. Essentially the flywheel horsepower is the Actual power the engine is making. The wheel horsepower is what is actually put down to the ground.

As an engine builder/ student designer most would tend not to go above 4 bar fuel pressure. I myself still find this a little high and try to keep it as low as possible. There is no need to go up an injector size UNLESS your injectors do not flow the required amount of fuel at 4 bar fuel pressure, or in my preferable case 3.5 bar fuel pressure. It is exact, you just have to be wise in how you use it. You could if you wanted to, use injectors which flow 550cc per min at 3.2 bar fuel pressure, this may mean your injector duty cycle is at 95% though and they could burnt out under high rev'ing conditions. If for example you go for 1000cc injectors and your only at 400bhp, you will find that they may be easy to control during high loads, but at idle it will be a serious struggle and you will need some serious engine management system which has great injector control, such as the KMS ecu.

It is completely correct fuel flow mate. I would advise if you were looking to "add on a bit" then to ensure that your horsepower target is higher than it is actually going to be, for example I knew Shaun was going for 350bhp, so say 400bhp for a safety margin and also the injector duty cycle at 90%, some injectors can be run at 95%, but thats the chance you take Also take into account that fuel flow changes with temperature, hence why you get more fuel from a petrol pump in cold mornings So ensuring that your duty cycle has around 5-10% leeway before the injectors start max'ing out is a good idea to play safe.

Ok found it here goes lol Fuel Flow (cc per minute) = (Horsepower Target* 5.6) / Number of cylinders So say for an example for you Shaun: Fuel Flow (cc per minute) = (400bhp * 5.6) / 4 Fuel Flow = 560cc Per minute The next step is to look at what size injectors we need to provide this fuel flow of 560cc. Injector static flow = (TF*100) / ( N*F) Where TF is the Theoretical flow rate which we worked out to be 560cc. N - Number of Injectors per cylinder M - Maximum duty cycle of our injectors So lets plug some numbers in: Injector Static Flow = (560cc*100) / (1*90) Injector Static flow = 622.22cc per minute Now to include our fuel pressure we use the following formula: Revised Static Flow = SF * Sqroot (RP/OP) SF - Injector static flow at manufactures standard pressure (usually tested at 3 bar) RP - Revised Fuel pressure OP - Original manufacturers standard pressure So say we use SARD 550cc injectors which were tested at 3 bar fuel pressure. Revised Static Flow = 550cc * Sqroot (3.5 bar/2.4 bar) 3.5 bar as to increase flow rate of our 550cc SARD, and 2.4 bar is the stock base fuel pressure Revised Static Flow = 664cc per minute. So we can see that if we choose the SARD 550cc injectors, increase the fuel pressure from 3 bar of which they were tested at, to 3.5 bar, we get 664cc per minute, which is more than we calculated above of 622cc per minute. Conclusion is that at 3.5 bar fuel pressure, SARD 550cc injectors will flow enough for Shaun's setup of 400bhp. Hope that helps

Injector size depends on the fuel pressure you want to run, this could be chosen by your tuner. Generally speaking I myself don't like to see anything over 3.5 bar, increasing the fuel pressure makes it increasingly harder to control the injectors. Since fuel pressure is done as a mechanical means, and the injector switching is done electronically this is how it comes about. There is a forumla to work out what size injectors you need relative to your fuel pressure and horsepower target. I shall dig it out for you mate

Thats correct, turn the nut on top with the vacuum hose disconnected and the engine running at idle. Does it have any brand name on the regulator at all?

If you can't find a tuner to map an ecu for you. Go with a plug and play like blitz, jam etc. Use a wideband gauge to check the AFR and also a set of det cans to check for knock.

You'll need, pistons, piston pins, piston rings, circlips, rods, crank, clutch assembly and crank pulley