AdamB

From what I've heard the hybrid td04's don't offer much of an increase in performance. I would just look to get a mani and downpipe kit, source your own td04 or even go for a td05.

Too late now mate, you've already posted here

I'm blind I don't mate, its the Ex TMD car. Looks stunning.

Awesome build mate. You buy that cusco diff new? Gonna get one myself, heard they are savage

The only reason to go for a charge cooler (water-air) is limited space for a FMIC. A charge cooler poses no pro's over an FMIC at all.

That looks like a ep80 to me. This is a GT

Getting a core from another performance vehicle such as the evo is good, not saying they are the best though. I believe you get what you pay for, Greddy and Blitz kits seem to be the best in terms of vehicle specific, but the price you pay is huge. I don't think you can get the Greddy kits anymore either. I'd like to see a number of intercoolers tested with a temp probe pre and post cooler to see effective they are.

You would be better off with the GT2056, they still flow enough for around 260bhp, but with less lag.

5w30 or 5w40 would be ideal for this weather if you plan on using it in the cold months. Offers greater start up protection.

Agree with this tbh, manufactures don't spend heaps of money developing components to be shit. Most cores on the market that are a specific kit provide very little in terms of specs. The only one that does appeal is the HDI kit where numerous testing has been carried out. You can't have an intercooler that flows and cools, its impossible. Have to have a trade off somewhere, either settle for more lag with a decrease in intake temps, or settle for higher temps with less lag. If you buy a cooler for what it looks like, fits etc you'll be buying one for the wrong reasons IMO.

Man speaks sense!

Its the battery that starts the car, not the alternator. The alternator only provides current when the engine is running. If its struggling to start, it could either be the battery is not good enough for cold conditions, or you have a drain somewhere.

Do a compression test before you take it out, could net you a few more pennies

Great buy mate, looks very clean after a good wash! Not to keen on the rear fog though, like most imports lol.

Will be fine to run on stock ecu as long as the spring is below the value of fuel cut like you say. It's just a different means of controlling boost pressure, theres no power gains to be had, but you get a much more stable boost curve.

Welcome along You would need valve springs and to probably rev to 8200rpm. Stock retainers are ok unless you go for reground cams where the angle has changed. A port and polish is a must to get 400bhp, 300bhp can be achieved on a stock head, although there would be no harm in doing a 3 angle cut on the valve seats. I also doubt that turbo will be able to push 400bhp, around 370bhp on that turbo is the max you'll probably make before it starts heating up the air. You will have to change to the next trim size which would be the 2876, but this would become pretty unbalanced in terms of power-spool ratio.

See this on ebay the other day, think its up for 2800.

Widest gap possible for then strongest spark, also get slightly better fuel economy, not that it matters much

The 255lph is rated to something like 450bhp, you should be ok mate. If in doubt change it It will be shown up in mapping if the fuel pump is good enough for the job.

I'm sure its GS**** Something but not sure lol.

There should be a part number on the side of the pump if I remember correctly, this corresponds to its flow rate. I think they do a 195 and a 255, but can't remember the part numbers off the top of my head.

Thanks for the kind words Sacha. I admit if I had known about this guy, I wouldn't have gone through it myself, let alone put yous guys through this shit situation. I will give it a few more days, as I am still in contact with the guy over in Malta, and I hope he now realises that it's not just me he is fighting against, but a whole community, including my family. After this I will be in contact with the Fraud office and see if I can find any updates regarding the status of the report I have filed against him. Adam

The 4EFE and 4EFTE use the same crank. The FTE crank is marked 4ET.

All gone tits up mate! You still got all the pics of the disassembly? Could always write it back in

If you get it reconditioned atleast you know its in perfect condition and will work for quite some time! However it is much easier to buy another one lol.