AdamB

I don't think it can, only on the Ultimates, but don't quote me on that. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?18701-The-Official-EMU-Tuning-amp-prob-thread!-Launch-control-success-thanks-to-fur!

x2, these cars are worth very little in Japan. even the highly modified ones can be had for around £1500-£2000, but including the freight + tax + registering it comes out to be a fair amount.

Your asking the wrong person mate lol. Thats wayyy to high and no doubt you have pretty poor low down performance. Set the pressure to 2.5 bar and see how it goes, itdoes need to be checked on a wideband by a tuner ideally.

For sale: Whiteline Adjustable Panhard rod Item Condition: As new Price and price conditions: £70 Extra Info: I brought this for my car but now I'm going for a cusco item so its up for sale. In very good as new condition, but has been used for a brief period of time. I have cleaned it and it came up well as you can see in the pictures below. Pictures: Contact Details: Pm on here Location: Oxford Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Postage included, Can also be collected For sale: Polished Valve Cover Item Condition: Very good Price and price conditions: £60 Extra Info: Polished valve cover, selling this as I have 3 of them so this isn't needed. Very good condition, with no marks or dings. This is the 4EFTE cover with 2 breather ports. Pictures: Contact Details: Pm on here Location: Oxford Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Postage included, can be collected

Shaun's confused even more now I agree with Matt like I said in my pm mate.

The problem is with big turbo setups is that to get the most out of them, you have to run silly boost, big boost doesn't always yield huge power

Personally I would get the suspension sorted first, set your height and then see how it goes, you may be able to get away without them being rolled. The front does look pretty low, but if your going to go a little higher than that I think you'll get away with it. The 45 profile will help, but I think your offset may be what stings you.

If you wish to turn the boost you'll need a fcd or some form of aftermarket ecu. The stock ecu is behind the glovebox, check behind their for a fcd as well.

Depending on how low you wanna go you mightjust get away with it being stiffer mate.

Everyones going for garrett now so im changing my setup Pm coming your way Shaun.

No need for a FPR if your running standard boost, does it have a gauge? What pressure is it reading? Standard fuel pressure is 2.3/2.4 bar.

Whats your mods? If its running standard boost then you have an issue. If your running a FPR then it will be ok, although not ideal.

Makes sense mate if your not interested in rolling round in the N/A. Just need to keep motivated really. I would get all the mech work done first, then do the body later. Everyone loves a shit box with a rapid engine What turbo kit you going for mate?

Is correct but the stock one is only 2 bar so can only run 1-1.2 bar max without it going up the shitter

Have you got all the bits you want? If it was me as its what im doing is wait till you have all the parts and do it all in one hit. I say roll round in the 95 in stock trim and then take it off the road end of 2013 and bang it all together over the winter months.

Check this thread, last picture 1st post, the HKS pro f con http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100837-*****-some-rare-items-from-my-collection-for-sale***** I know its a difference ecu but you get the idea. The chip with the sticker labelled D304 or E304 can't quite make it out.

Wish I could understand Japanese Translators just dont cut it lol. Looks mega though, would love to seam weld my chassis.

Try adjusting the clutch pedal first. Some clutches do require a longer slave rod to fully disengage the clutch although it would be the first I have heard of on the ogura/blitz units.

There will be an extra board in with the stock one, or there will be another eeprom chip inserted, this will normally have a sticker on it to identify it.

Looks like a headbolt washer and you will get them with a bolt set mate.

Tyre pressures are more important than the compound of the tyre. I ran rainsports on the rear of myy GT at 30psi and they were shit. The rear felt so loose and slide happy it didnt put much confidence in me whilst cornering, I would say you would need to run them at 28psi or lower to get the best grip.

I got the zisco valve springs and tbh I feel quite reluctant to use them since there is no specs available for them. When your trying to blueprint an entire engine you would like the specs for everything as an engine builder. My personal opinion though and I know they work very well on other heads.

That is a cusco mate. The cusco has round holes on the casing. The TRD has oval shsped holes.

X2, if the dizzy has come loose you will need to adjust the static igntion timing to 10 deg BTDC

If it pops out of gear its usually a sign of poor synchro meshing or the selector fork isn't doing its job properly. Best way to tell really is to drop the box and check the clutch, if thats good then its a problem with the box. Normally a clutch will slip before it lets go, unless you've destroyed the clutch into pieces.