AdamB

Ok found it here goes lol Fuel Flow (cc per minute) = (Horsepower Target* 5.6) / Number of cylinders So say for an example for you Shaun: Fuel Flow (cc per minute) = (400bhp * 5.6) / 4 Fuel Flow = 560cc Per minute The next step is to look at what size injectors we need to provide this fuel flow of 560cc. Injector static flow = (TF*100) / ( N*F) Where TF is the Theoretical flow rate which we worked out to be 560cc. N - Number of Injectors per cylinder M - Maximum duty cycle of our injectors So lets plug some numbers in: Injector Static Flow = (560cc*100) / (1*90) Injector Static flow = 6

Injector size depends on the fuel pressure you want to run, this could be chosen by your tuner. Generally speaking I myself don't like to see anything over 3.5 bar, increasing the fuel pressure makes it increasingly harder to control the injectors. Since fuel pressure is done as a mechanical means, and the injector switching is done electronically this is how it comes about. There is a forumla to work out what size injectors you need relative to your fuel pressure and horsepower target. I shall dig it out for you mate

How long will this be running for Mike?

Thats correct, turn the nut on top with the vacuum hose disconnected and the engine running at idle. Does it have any brand name on the regulator at all?

If you can't find a tuner to map an ecu for you. Go with a plug and play like blitz, jam etc. Use a wideband gauge to check the AFR and also a set of det cans to check for knock.

You'll need, pistons, piston pins, piston rings, circlips, rods, crank, clutch assembly and crank pulley

I don't think it can, only on the Ultimates, but don't quote me on that. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?18701-The-Official-EMU-Tuning-amp-prob-thread!-Launch-control-success-thanks-to-fur!

x2, these cars are worth very little in Japan. even the highly modified ones can be had for around £1500-£2000, but including the freight + tax + registering it comes out to be a fair amount.

Your asking the wrong person mate lol. Thats wayyy to high and no doubt you have pretty poor low down performance. Set the pressure to 2.5 bar and see how it goes, itdoes need to be checked on a wideband by a tuner ideally.

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Shaun's confused even more now I agree with Matt like I said in my pm mate.

The problem is with big turbo setups is that to get the most out of them, you have to run silly boost, big boost doesn't always yield huge power

Personally I would get the suspension sorted first, set your height and then see how it goes, you may be able to get away without them being rolled. The front does look pretty low, but if your going to go a little higher than that I think you'll get away with it. The 45 profile will help, but I think your offset may be what stings you.

If you wish to turn the boost you'll need a fcd or some form of aftermarket ecu. The stock ecu is behind the glovebox, check behind their for a fcd as well.

Depending on how low you wanna go you mightjust get away with it being stiffer mate.

Everyones going for garrett now so im changing my setup Pm coming your way Shaun.

No need for a FPR if your running standard boost, does it have a gauge? What pressure is it reading? Standard fuel pressure is 2.3/2.4 bar.

Whats your mods? If its running standard boost then you have an issue. If your running a FPR then it will be ok, although not ideal.

Makes sense mate if your not interested in rolling round in the N/A. Just need to keep motivated really. I would get all the mech work done first, then do the body later. Everyone loves a shit box with a rapid engine What turbo kit you going for mate?

Is correct but the stock one is only 2 bar so can only run 1-1.2 bar max without it going up the shitter

Have you got all the bits you want? If it was me as its what im doing is wait till you have all the parts and do it all in one hit. I say roll round in the 95 in stock trim and then take it off the road end of 2013 and bang it all together over the winter months.

Check this thread, last picture 1st post, the HKS pro f con http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100837-*****-some-rare-items-from-my-collection-for-sale***** I know its a difference ecu but you get the idea. The chip with the sticker labelled D304 or E304 can't quite make it out.

Wish I could understand Japanese Translators just dont cut it lol. Looks mega though, would love to seam weld my chassis.

Try adjusting the clutch pedal first. Some clutches do require a longer slave rod to fully disengage the clutch although it would be the first I have heard of on the ogura/blitz units.

There will be an extra board in with the stock one, or there will be another eeprom chip inserted, this will normally have a sticker on it to identify it.