AdamB

Worth talking to the guys that already have 4 paws mate, See if its really worth spending £3k to get one. It may be different from the norm, but parts are gonna be hard to source in terms of drivetrain.

If your looking for a quick cheap build then you can probably get it all in for £2k. For a build which will withstand any sort of punishment you'll probably be looking closer to £3k.

No, you need one modified by AP engineering to have starlet fitment. They are pretty rare and don't come up very often and are very expensive. If your looking for an ecu and have a budget of £1000, you would be far better off buying something like a Link, DTA, Haltech etc, the list is endless.

Depends if your building it yourself or if your going to get it outsourced really?

How longs the car been sitting? Wouldn't have thought it would have gone mouldy too quickly. My car has been left for 9 months now, and I have no mould inside, although I don't use a cover.

Remember that when using a locking based lubricant it will adjust the torque setting you need to torque bolts/studs to. Hence why ARP send out their own lubricant with their bolts/studs and specify torque settings for their own brand and loctite.

It is fine to run without water lines. The oils primary job is to lubricate, its second function is to cool. The water feed is there to prolong the life if the turbo. I do agree though, if its got the water feed/lines you might as well use them. But since a td series turbo can be picked up for peanuts I wouldn't be so worried. But I know for a fact I'll be using oil and water lines on my £1200 turbo, everyone has their own opinion though.

The Race-Tech gauges are pretty damn good. If your not looking to spend silly money on JDM stuff then race-tech gauges do a good job.

10w40, or if using around winter time I would go for a 5w40. Shell Helix, Fuchs, Mobil are all good oils

I think the biggest problem is if you drive it as a daily. You soon get bored quickly and want more and more. If you tuck it away for the winter, and roll around in a banger, when you go back to the beast in the summer you'll fall back in love again.

x2, most common problem is swapping the hoses the wrong way.

Exhaust?

How much for block and crank mate? If someone else is willing to take the rest that is as I know you don't want to split. Pm me a price if you prefer

Standard ecu's will require the use of a narrowband sensor, and I'm very sure the aftermarket plug and plays also require this. Thats true you will need to have the boss welded in further away from the turbo, a lot of people just use the wideband purely as a gauge and let the stock narrowband sensor do its job in the stock position.

Whats the highest CR you've seen on a 5E Sacha mate? I know Spuddy's is at 8.5:1. Going to email you now as well

The MTX uses a Bosch LSU 4 wideband sensor, which needs calibrating. According to innovates website the LC-1 has auto calibration for changes in sensor wear, temp etc. Although is probably still best to calibrate it every so often. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php The LC-1 you get with all the gauge kits apart from the MTX kit. Don't quote me but I'm not sure if the AEM can be linked to aftermarket ecu's, maybe AEM's own but others i'm not sure. Where as the innovate gear can deffinately be used with aftermarket ecu's.

As above, when you lower the car further to the ground, the camber gets pushed out, end up with negative camber. Its best to fit one so that the axle will be aligned properly on both sides, then you can adjust your geometry from an equal and static point.

TD are doing a good deal on Emanage blue units fitted and mapped mate Will be ideal for your setup, and are about the same price as you would pay for a plug and play ecu.

The innovate LC-1 sensor doesn't require calibrating. AEM is a good choice and little cheaper than the innovate, although I'm sure you can't log with it. The distance varies between brands, usually around 35/36 inches away from the turbo, which puts it right under the gearbox.

Both the heads are the same, valve springs differ though. Although if you have any sense you wouldn't use valve springs which are 14+ years old, been through 70+k miles and have sagged anyway.

Its the duration of the cams which can make them un-driveable on the road, high idle, lumpy and they shift the powerband further up the rev range. Not too sure on the lift vs valve diameter ratio, but the valve will be the bottleneck.

"Vehicles with HID headlamps are therefore required to have a headlamp washing system (a wiper is not required) and be self levelling, which may be achieved either by the use of either headlamp or suspension levelling systems. The presence and operation of these headlamp cleaning and levelling devices has been added to the test. Therefore, if a mandatory headlamp levelling or cleaning device is missing, inoperative or otherwise obviously defective, the vehicle will fail. This raises the question of whether these checks apply to vehicles fitted with after-market HID lighting kits. These kits convert conventional halogen headlamps to HID Xenon and they are widely sold and fitted to vehicles used on the road. The Department for Transport considers that after-market systems should be required to meet the same safety standards as that applied in respect of these lamps at vehicle Type Approval. Therefore, in order to pass the MOT test, vehicles fitted with after-market HID systems would also need to be fitted with headlamp cleaning and self-levelling systems. Some high specification estate cars are fitted with a self-levelling suspension system and this would be considered as adequate for the purpose. It is also worthy of note that a few high performance vehicles fitted with HID headlamps that have barely any luggage space and stiff suspension do not require a self-levelling system. HID headlamps can be easily recognised as they generally: u take a few seconds to reach full intensity u have a bluish tinge to the light u have an igniter module/inverter behind the headlamp u may also have ‘DCR’ marked on the headlamp lens. Headlamp washing and levelling systems are mandatory for all vehicles fitted with LED headlamp systems, although these are not yet widely used and only tend to be optional fitment on some executive marques. However, as LED systems improve and because they can be arranged in almost any design configuration, they are sure to become more common. Where headlamp levelling or cleaning devices are missing or defective, but there is doubt as to whether they are required, the benefit of the doubt should be given and an advisory notice issued. " http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18398717 And http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/tp/hid-kits-new-legislation-2012/

They are illegal now as the new MOT laws state the headlight must be self-levelling. Headlight washer jets are not necessary but if fitted they must work. Since starlets don't have self levelling headlights they are illegal.

You have to remove the sensor from the exhaust, hold it in free air. They do come with instructions to tell you how to do it. Been a while since I've used an innovate, can't remember if theres a button on the gauge to press or not lol. Edit: Just had a quick look, it seems as if the LC-1 can calibrate itself to compensate for wear, temp changes etc. If you want the gauge kit the MTX-L will need calibration. Seems as if the other gauge kits such as the DB, G2, G3 etc come with the LC-1 type sensor, which automatically calibrates. Take your pick, theres plenty lol: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTS.php

I'm sure you have to adjust the voltage which it clamps at as it is determined by the map sensor.