AdamB

Middlehurst Motorsport built the RB28 and is mapped by Abbey Motorsport. Your right it does need the D-Jetro model PFC, although it is more expensive to buy than the L-Jetro model but I think thats the difference, when you already have a programmable ecu, you can sell it, make some of your money back and put it towards something else. I think if we were able to pick up PFC's for the price Matt got his for, and the rough price of the PFC's for other markets then yeah it's a viable option no matter how old the ecu is. I'm not too familier with the PFC's for starlets so i'm not sure, but when p

Whats your tuning garage called then lad? What cars have you mapped? What engines have you built? The simple fact is, you don't even know the car yet your trying to blame it on something else. The ecu isn't able to run without airflow metres, causing the turbo stall and making it have poor power delivery... THATS IT. Your right, they may well work the same as they did 50 years ago, but plain and simple, the technology used to control these components is far more advanced than it was 10 or 50 years ago. The software used to calibrate these components is also far better than it used to be. You

Said it all right there tbh. I've spent probably around 20 hours searching, reading, and looking information as to what ecu to buy and i'm still none the wiser, but I do know for a fact it will be a new ecu such as link, haltech, motec etc. My dad runs a PFC on his 600whp skyline, and yeah fair enough, they do the job, a basic job at that, and in fairness the car doesn't run very well, its very lump, the turbo's start to stall when coming on boost and power delivery is pretty poor. The PFC is ancient, hasn't been updated since it was released, and the only use I can think of for it now is to

Hmm it could be either the master or slave cylinder, although I have known it to be more commonly the slave cylinder to give a "lack of pedal feel" I'm sure you can pick these up for around £30 second hand. Bit of a ballache if it is the flywheel as you have only just had the gearbox off. How was the flywheel when you replaced the clutch?

Have you checked to ensure the clutch pedal is at the right height as this can affect the way you feel it... http://www.toyotagtt...st clutch pedal When changing the clutch I would expect the clutch pedal to be adjusted to suit a new biting point. Also did you replace the release bearing?

If its direct plug into the EMU then all you will need to do is mount it, run a vac hose from the inlet mani to the map sensor, and ensure that the map sensor is plugged into the ecu

Had it been sat at all? If so how long for? Did you check for fuel at the rail? Could you smell fuel when it was cranking? Have you checked battery voltage?

Springs vary, depending on what boost pressure they are desired to hold. You can run one spring or two.

It wouldn't look so high with a 50 profile which is what most people tend to favour.

Which map sensor is it? Different map sensors have different pin outs. If it's a greddy one it should be plug and play to the ecu as long as you have the field harness.

Look like rays gram lights 57c to me, very rare and lightweight! Although not the lightest wheel ;)

Looks ok to me, what tyre size are you running? Could go a smidge lower

Stage 4 as far as I know is with TD's custom cams and their secret head work is it not?

When you pm me mate, I'll let you know how much I paid for my stuff if your still interested, I'll put you in touch with a supplier ;)

Mines cost me more than £3k and the engine still isn't even stripped! Out of interest how much you after Sam? Pm me a price mate.

Some rods do need the block notching mate, as far as I'm aware Pauter and possibly PAR rods do not. The crank stud pattern is different to that of the 4E crank, the flywheel can be re-drilled but for the cost and hassle you can buy a conversion flywheel, which is a 3E flywheel (has correct fitment for 5E crank and also allows the 212mm clutch from the 4E to be used). Also check here mate, will put you on the right track... http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=Building+a+5E-FTE+-+Some+basic+info

You could check the rotor arm and dizzy cap condition mate. What clutch do you have? Some clutches give a little judder when pulling away and going through the gears. Other than that either a vac leak or condensation somewhere.

Guilty until proven innocent, not the way its supposed to work but thats the way it goes. Hate them all, they have nothing else better to do than to collect tax payers money.

I will be finding out later today mate, as soon as I know you will know. .

Sorry for the late replies guys, I have had a very hectic day. Sacha I can confirm aftermarket LSD can be used with this kit. Gee, assembly means that the complete gearkit is in the gearbox casing, so all you have to do is bolt the gearbox on the engine. You can keep the diff and just place it in the box once you recieve, or if you would like you can ship the LSD to them, although this will add to the lead time of you getting the package. So probably a wiser choice is to fit the LSD yourself, or get a local tuner/mechanic to fit. Here are some pictures I have, I do not have any of the shift

Right there a few options to have and I shall list below. Kit A Straight cut dogbox + LSD = 2420 Euro (Kit comes un-assembled) Kit B Straight cut dogbox + LSD + Assembly = 2520 Euro Kit C Straight cut dogbox = 2000 Euro ( NO LSD and un-assembled) Kit D Straight cut dogbox + Assembly = 2350 Euro ( NO LSD ) Sequential Shifter = 1280 Euro So with a group buy and 10% discount it becomes: Kit A = 2178 Euro Kit B = 2268 Euro Kit C = 1800 Euro Kit D = 2115 Euro A discount of 15% can be applied if the sequential shifter + one of the kits above ar

5E, people seem to think the 5E can't rev, Spuddy has proven it can at 9300rpm. The only reason is doesn't like to rev in stock form is because the bottom end is heavier than a 4E. More torque, more power, better drive, better spool times.

Right here is a quote direct from manufacture... " I checked I have 5 in stock from which 2 are sold, to be assembled tomorrow and Tuesday. These kits sell fast, because they're well made and the price is good. Im a bit in panic mode as they'll be out of stock for a while, the metal shipment got stuck in an Italian shipping warehouse, as they closed a whole month for ferragosto. I promise you that the gearkit will outlive your car ! I do recommend though after 5 years to change the bearings, as per manufacturer instructions. They're heavy duty bearings, but still bearings. They are a dream to

Ok so I have had a reply back. Regarding LSD's, this kit comes with their own made diff, although other brands can be used easily enough. Their own branded LSD is of a plated type and I've been told its as good as any other aftermarket diff on sale today. I have also enquired about if the LSD can be removed from the kit to make things cheaper. Warranty side of things covers: Stripping and shredding gears Breaking shafts Partial cover on the dog engagement, this means that improper driving could causes premature wear on the dog clutches and warranty will not cover this. Also any fitment of af

I will get back to them and ask about what the warranty covers, the length of warranty etc. I can also confirm that you will be able to place an aftermarket LSD unit housed into the stock gearbox casing, so this means you are able to fit your TRD, Cusco, Quaife, KAAZ etc aftermarket LSD with this gear kit.