AdamB

We want pics now! Gonna look ace with that wing on mate.

Check here mate http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=How+to+set+timing

^^^ x2, best to place a piece of wood or thin metal sheet behind the side your going ti fill. As sometimes it will sink as it dries.

At WOT you should probably be looking to run a target AFR of 11.2-11.5:1, get it checked with det cans as its not as simple as increasing the fuel pressure makes your engine safe. Detonation is the biggest killer of engines and will destroy it in seconds. Exhaust gas temperature is mainly dependent on the intake charge temp, the higher the temp, the higher the output of gas temp. Not only that but higher intake temps increase detonation. Reduced temperatures=more power.

I know the journals are wider on the 5E, not sure in terms of diameter.

Only just realised I live 1 minute away from Zircotec lol, think I'll pay them a visit ;)

Love the running commentary LOL!

^^^ Fuck that lol. That view would be enough to make me sick, just knowing your basically in space.

Real men use Garrett Its hard to judge what spool time will be like as it varies too much, things like compression ratio, cams, piston size, air temp, what ecu you run, the tune etc. Id say at a guess 1 bar @ 3000rpm.

Should do

Isn't the TRD mechanical a clutch type rather than Helical? Could be worn plates or incorrect torque load setting. Edit: The mechanical is a plate/clutch type LSD http://www.rhdjapan.com/trd-mechanical-lsd-limited-slip-differential-corolla-levin-trueno-starlet-vitz-18994

Start the gap at 1.1mm mate, if it gets worse then knock it down to 1mm and so on.

Was it missing before you replaced these parts? Or was it missing as bad as it is now? Were the plugs gapped? Is there any water/residue down the spark plug holes? Spray the holes out with some WD40. I would check the condition of the cap and rotor arm, if they seem to be ok then maybe do a compression test. A missfire can also be related to low compression.

Will vary between engines mate, check here: http://www.s314kba.co.uk/leaderboard/ A few running td04's, plus what do you mean by healthy? A healthy engine is one that runs under the correct conditions, power means nothing.

Should just say its a 1.3 5 stroke engine

Take it to a tuner unless you have a wideband and det cans, and drive off boost until its setup.

It's not so much the power, its the torque thats the problem. Most *5's I've seen run the 4E engine which as we know doesn't put out as much torque as a 5E. Have a guess and say about 350-370ft/lbs, seems stock glanza boxes strip gears a little lower than this torque. As shorty said its the viscous coupling thats the problem, maybe try and get a billet one made? I'm sure TRD used to make *5 LSD diffs, but trying to find one would really be like finding rocking horse shit.

Anyone got any good brands for the steel ones?

A pedal box is the way forward ;) Problem is with having adjustable brake bias, you would forever be changing it depending on conditions, dry, wet, track etc. Also I'm sure WMS don't have dust seals.

Ment more in terms of balance

Don't believe you can adjust camber at the bottom mate, unless you have camber bolts, they only give you max 1.5 degrees anyway which can be done on the top mount if required.

I think 6 pots are a bit too big for a car that weights like 900kg.

Winner

You'll have to open the box up, remove the gears along with the synchro's and replace the one required, or just replace them all while your at it. A lot of gearbox pictures look daunting, but as long as you have a large enough area and lay all the bits you remove down in sequence it's not as bad as it looks ;)

Can I ask why you've gone for an oil cooler? I wouldn't add an extra 1.5 litres of oil. Fill the sump up with the correct amount of oil then on first start up crank it a few times to get the oil around. Too much oil will cause high pressure, will likely blow the crank seals and will also create a lot of drag on the crank reducing your power.