AdamB

x2, theres one connection on the thermo housing which goes straight to the dash, tiny spade connector, single wire.

I would adjust it until it suits your engine mate. No harm in being a smaller gap, but its better to run a larger gap. The gap is not directly related to the boost pressure you run. Its more related to how efficient your ignition system is overall. Remember that you want the least resistance possible. Hence its still possible to run a 1.1mm gap even if you are running 2 bar boost pressure, yet run coil on plug ignition system.

Seats are awesome mate, not as light as I expected. Weigh more than the stock ones so may change them at some point. but there super comfy! Can't wait to see this when you get it back with all the goodies on it mate

If it blows out the spark you will develop a missfire under load. I'm not sure what the gap spec is when you buy a set new but its always best to measure. I think they are 1.1mm. You will also get better fuel economy with a larger gap, not that you will likely notice a difference lol.

A wider gap gives a stronger spark, only if its not blowing out. I would start at 1.1mm, if you get a missfire under load, ie uphill 4th gear. Then gap it down to 1.00mm and so on.

Boost and oil pressure are the main ones. A wideband gauge will help as well, but if its been mapped properly its not something I would worry about if your on a budget. I've seen just as many engines die from oil pressure problems than I have boost/detonation related. I've had 2 engines die from oil pressure problems and its a pain in the shitter!

I don't like any of the supposed "self learning" modes on EBC's. I've never been able to get it to work properly even on a AVCR. Are you sure theres no leaks mate? Might be worth making a little pressure tester to just make sure, they come in very handy and are pretty cheap to make.

Only one way to find out mate and thats to try it. But I would be very cautious.

Save your money on an oil temp gauge, not really needed unless you go hammering around a track ;) I would go with the programmable management route, much safer, much better drive.

What EBC is it? Most learning modes on EBC's are shit and don't work. Is your external gate spring second hand? Don't forget they do become weak over time. What external gate is it? Is it a genuine copy?

You want the largest gap possible without blowing out the spark.

You can mod the N/A one, but you will have to remove the baffle plate inside to drill through accurately.

It may well be able to, but you would have to find out what map sensor it is that it is able to read. As we know these plug and plays are mapped to different turbo's, setups etc, so on a general I would say it wouldn't be safe to run anything past the stock map sensors limits. It could also depend on what they used as "load", they may have used MAP as load, or RPM as load. That no one will probably ever know.

x2, I highly doubt it would be very accurate when getting to the map sensors limits. The ecu is likely to be scaled as an exact copy of the standard unit. So won't be possible to swap to a 3 bar map sensor and expect it to read it.

lol "td04 is a massive turbo for this car" god, I would love to see what they think with a gt28/30 slapped on a 4E Car looks like shit, do agree with them with the bov, I think the new versions of the SSQV sounds too girly, I've got the version 1 and it sounds so manly and beefy.

It is probably due to balancing. Some material has been removed to ensure that it is within tolerence by the looks of things.

Them results are fine mate. A difference between 14.5psi/ 1 bar is the maximum between cylinders in pressure difference.

I wouldn't advise running standard size 74mm pistons, as by the time the bore is honed, you could be looking at quite a large clearence that will never be filled unless running on track where you will see high temps and the rate of expansion of the metal changes. I wouldn't waste money getting the head ported and polished unless your looking to run a very big setup. People have run 300whp on a stock head with no problems, so flow is not a problem.

Coolant temp sensor can do this. Swap it for a known working one with someone close by or something mate

We want pics now! Gonna look ace with that wing on mate.

Check here mate http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=How+to+set+timing

^^^ x2, best to place a piece of wood or thin metal sheet behind the side your going ti fill. As sometimes it will sink as it dries.

At WOT you should probably be looking to run a target AFR of 11.2-11.5:1, get it checked with det cans as its not as simple as increasing the fuel pressure makes your engine safe. Detonation is the biggest killer of engines and will destroy it in seconds. Exhaust gas temperature is mainly dependent on the intake charge temp, the higher the temp, the higher the output of gas temp. Not only that but higher intake temps increase detonation. Reduced temperatures=more power.

I know the journals are wider on the 5E, not sure in terms of diameter.

Only just realised I live 1 minute away from Zircotec lol, think I'll pay them a visit ;)