AdamB

I'm sure its GS**** Something but not sure lol.

There should be a part number on the side of the pump if I remember correctly, this corresponds to its flow rate. I think they do a 195 and a 255, but can't remember the part numbers off the top of my head.

Thanks for the kind words Sacha. I admit if I had known about this guy, I wouldn't have gone through it myself, let alone put yous guys through this shit situation. I will give it a few more days, as I am still in contact with the guy over in Malta, and I hope he now realises that it's not just me he is fighting against, but a whole community, including my family. After this I will be in contact with the Fraud office and see if I can find any updates regarding the status of the report I have filed against him. Adam

The 4EFE and 4EFTE use the same crank. The FTE crank is marked 4ET.

All gone tits up mate! You still got all the pics of the disassembly? Could always write it back in

If you get it reconditioned atleast you know its in perfect condition and will work for quite some time! However it is much easier to buy another one lol.

You will need to remove the crank pulley, timing belt, sump, remove the rod caps, main caps, drop the gearbox, remove clutch and flywheel assembly and then your able to drop the crank. I don't think the dissassemble is apart of Taggys guide but will show you how to put it back together Don't forget you'll have to measure the journals using a micrometer to find suitable bearings.

Sounds like the regulator in the alternator failing mate. They can be rebuilt, but if you buy a new one its not worth it.

All I have is an address which is posted on the website mate. I also have his phone number. He keeps making up excuses to me such as, the courier lost the shipping information, I recieved and email from him earlier today that he wasn't trying to do any malice towards me, and that I will be refunded with compensation included for the trouble. I'm going to give it a few days and try and find out a date of when this refund will be happening.

Tial

Epic Small hatchbacks FTW! The evo doesn't look that quick though, but would be interesting to know the spec.

Hi guys, Sorry for the delay as I have been having exams at uni, so been preparing for them. First off I would like to say I am sorry, and it is a complete shit situation to be in, it has truely saddend me beyond belief that something like this has happened. I'm not a scammer and have had many deals with people on here and TGTT in buying and selling items. I'm not trying to start an argument I'm mearly getting my point across. Both Gee, and Sacha were aware of the manufacturer of these kits, they were both sceptical about sending money without knowing who the manufacturer was, I have nothi

Too late Always prefered the evo myself. But the subaru boxer engines sound awesome.

Fuel rail sold. Bump for valve cover, get it before xmas!

The top speed will still be the same as the 5th and final drive ratios are the same in both boxes. Just the C56 3rd and 4th gear will top out faster and at a lower speed than that of a C52 box.

Don't think the material composition of the gears themselves are actually any different. Its just the fact the GT has a longer 3rd and 4th gear, which helps with the transfer of torque. That said the C56 glanza box had shorter ratio's to pull its fat ass, as well as having the extra blade on the turbo

Welcome along, throw some pictures up at some point, will be good to see

They don't adjust themselves they are just the same as a stock ecu with a more aggressive map. Remove the battery terminals and EFI fuse for 25 mins or so, then plug it back up to reset the ecu.

That again depends what the car is used for. If you want it good for a top speed run you will want the friction coefficient to be as low as possible. If your building a time attack/circuit car you will want it to be as high as possible, as it helps in slowing the vehicle down for corners. The average modern vehicle has a friction coefficient of around 0.35, an F1 car has the CF at around 1.2. Massive difference.

Not really, you would accelerate faster, but only if you can get the extra 120 horses nailed to the floor Hence the reason why rally cars are restricted to 300bhp, but they put out crazy torque. A different box is kinda hard as it would depend on what the ratios are. Too short and you'll top out too quick, if you got 280bhp, it doesn't take long to reach 130mph. I believe it would be beneficial in raising the rev limit rather than changing ratios, as long as the engine is still able to produce power beyond the original limiter, especislly against something which can change gear quicker than

If your still running the stock narrowband O2 sensor, it will fluctuate as a narrowband is only able to respond to the question " is it lean?" if the answer is yes, more fuel is added, if not it won't add any fuel. As long as WOT AFR is ok I wouldn't worry too much. You have done the correct thing by calibrating the sensor.

All depends on the torque curve really. BHP/tonne is only an indication for acceleration.

Not one thats been a direct fitment mate. Most are welded in between a cage or if you wish I'm sure you can get one which bolts to a cage as its easier for removal. Antoher one would be to weld it to the strut towers, although depending on how low down the seat is as I'm sure the harness is not supposed to run anything more than 10 degrees from horizontal. In my opinion if your going to be running a harness, why would you want the back seats anyway?

I think you mean main beam bulb, which on a quad light is 9005

Just to add its not the best way to use a harness as for safety reasons its best to run a harness bar. I wouldn't like to have passengers sitting across a harness either.