AdamB

Innovate are very good, but they do need calibrating every so often just to ensure they are on point. The good thing with the innovate stuff is you can data log with it, if your not going to be doing this or can't be bothered to calibrate it every 12 months, the AEM is another good option.

Getting the head skimmed is not compulsory, as long as it is straight then it will be fine. No need to get taking material off which doesn't need to come off. Its harder to put material on than it is to take off. That said, it is advised to atleast get it checked, if its going to a machine shop to be checked, may as well get it skimmed for the sake of like 20 quid. The head bolts are TTY, do NOT re-use them! Once they have been torqued they would have gone past their elastic limit, next time you use them they will NOT provide sufficient clamping force and you may even end up snapping the head off the bolt whilst torquing. ARP bolts on the other hand can be re-used, but need to be checked for stretch.

To locate the gasket on the block correctly, there are I believe 2 water ways on the inlet side, if you line the gasket up (same shape cut outs) with the specific water way in the block you should be fine mate If your still not sure mate, post up some pics

Put the headgasket on the wrong way by the sounds of it. Someone over on TGTT did the same thing not so long ago, see if I can find it bare with us. Edit heres the vid: And thread is here: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100315-Monumental-PAS-leak-(

Probably the biggest problem, even a VF35 will do but they don't come up very often either. And expect to pay quite a price for them.

I know AEM do a water/meth injection kit, but not too familier with that brand so can't say how well it works, I know it is slightly cheaper than the AquaMist gear, but I suppose you get what you pay for. http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-methanol-injection-kits-23/?osCsid=ltvndj563stlpqo5hr1guf8090 AEM seem to claim that you can increase your peak horsepower 15-20% and 20-25% torque. I find these figures very optimistic, but nonetheless, you will get a gain, how much would depend on the setup etc.

I think the scooby did, I do know that some car models have intercooler spray as a factory fit, like the RA model, not sure if its actually directly plumbed into the intake or if its indirect like using a spray bar on to the cooler.

Could be mate, I'm not 100% sure, best person to ask is Socks as he has the full Roose hose kit on his car

Was run on a switch mate, I wouldn't advise doing it this way, it was just purely an experiment lol. But I never had the chance to find out how effective it was really because I needed a programmable management system to get the true potential out of it.

Try Roose Motorsport, they can make you up a custom pipe. I've never seen a silicone one made of the water hoses at the back, I may be wrong.

Good to hear its just a bit of time its cost you mate. Let us know how you get on/ if the car feels better now

Not run one on a starlet, have run a cheapo system before on another engine. Was never dyno'd so never really got to see the true performance outcome from it. Best kits are probably the aquamist stuff tbh, been around for years and good quality products. Though they are not that cheap. My cheapo kit I made out of using a windscreen washer pump, and used the washer bottle as the reservoir, and had a brass jet located near the throttle body Only trouble I had was that the jet kept clogging up as I wasn't always using distilled water, so the chalk and other shit in the water was clogging the jet up and not providing sufficient, if any spray.

Water injection injects a fine mist of water into the inlet stream. There are a number of places you can put the jet, all have their advantages. Placing the jet before the turbo compressor cools the air going into the turbo, increasing its efficiency, allowing more boost without the added drawback of adding heat. As we know that compressing air induces heat into the charge. Placing the jet after the intercooler allows the air to be cooler before it goes into the engine, cooler air allows more ignition advance in the map, and this is where power is gained through ignition. There are many different WI systems out there, but ones which have safety parameters are the best ones to go for. Like having a water level sensor, there could be harm if your boosting the car and water is not injected!

Inlet sounds interesting Matt! It does sound as if decreasing spool time is what your after, you could look into water injection which will help you out slightly, raising the compression ratio or fiddle with the gear ratio's. Anti-lag is ok if you got good brakes as it takes away some of, if not all of engine braking, so there will be much more heat going into the brakes.

My opinion would be to leave it if its not going to net you anymore power, you also have to take into account that the turbo will start to become un-efficient the higher up the rev range you go, so power could start to drop off quite rapidly, that said if you raise the rev limit you might be able to net a slightly longer powerband without dropping too much power.

Looks fine mate, thats carbon build up from combustion. If it was fuelling related it would be a wet look. I would say you either have the ignition timing not setup correctly or the spark plug gaps. It would now seem a problem is more obvious since the ecu is more aggressive with its fuelling and ignition timing.

No need to go raising the rev limit if the turbo isn't able to provide the power beyond x rpm. Best bet is to ask TD it if they see any scope by raising the rev limit. Although theres no harm in changing over to a stiffer valve spring and solid buckets Whats the current rev limit at as well? Stock 7200?

Running rich will melt a piston, hence why you run rich on start up because it warms the engine up faster. I've also done it as an experiment to look at the piston material structure after it has melted. A spark plug should not be full of carbon after 100 miles of driving. A small amount of black deposits is normal. Your all getting the ignition timing wrong! The ecu has an ignition advance feature, this is not STATIC it is dynamic. The ignition advances depending on the parameters it sees from the sensors. The STATIC ignition advance for this engine is 10 degrees BTDC. Changing the ecu will make no difference what so ever!

Static ignition timing should be 10 BTDC. And the PLUGS BEING BLACK MEANS ITS RUNNING RICH! The plugs should be a tanned brown colour, much like your mrs when she slaps on fake tan! I would check the static ignition timing with a timing light and ensure that it is AT or as close to 10 BTDC, them 2 degrees can make all the difference. Failing that you could have an ignitor problem seeing as you've replaced the wear and tear components. Guide here on how to set your static ignition timing: http://www.toyotagtt...w to set timing I would advise not to boost the car until you can figure exactly why its running rich, it could lead to melting a piston. Get the car checked with a wideband as soon as you can would be your best bet mate. If it is running that rich it will backfire through the inlet manifold, which is not good. This could be what you are experiencing. It will also give a lack of throttle response and feel dull.

Too hard to tell if it will need a FPR or not, but I would doubt it as all these ECU's run slightly rich no matter what setup. So if its been mapped for a td04 and your on a ct9 it will still overfuel. I've heard that they don't tend to like running above stock fuel pressure because it becomes increasingly harder to control injectors as the pressure is increased. I would take the car for a run, and get to know exactly what its doing, otherwise we can just keep guessing till sun rise. If it is only doing it on the over run then its probably just been a bit paranoid. If its something you can feel like being held back I would be pointing towards a missfire.

Can't wait for the videos!

Wrong, if its doing it on the over-run its just running a little rich, no problem. If doing it during acceleration theres a problem, missfire of somesort where the un-burnt fuel is igniting in the turbine housing. Have you got an AFR gauge? If not I wouldn't have just thrown the ecu in and "expect" it to be fine. I would still get it checked on a wideband and det cans to ensure its not doing any harm to your setup.

Thats not the same colour Abbotts old GT was is it?

I would go with an aeromotive FPR, too many Sard knock offs floating about.

This was on ebay not so long ago on bidding. Sold for something like £855.