AdamB

Both the heads are the same, valve springs differ though. Although if you have any sense you wouldn't use valve springs which are 14+ years old, been through 70+k miles and have sagged anyway.

Its the duration of the cams which can make them un-driveable on the road, high idle, lumpy and they shift the powerband further up the rev range. Not too sure on the lift vs valve diameter ratio, but the valve will be the bottleneck.

"Vehicles with HID headlamps are therefore required to have a headlamp washing system (a wiper is not required) and be self levelling, which may be achieved either by the use of either headlamp or suspension levelling systems. The presence and operation of these headlamp cleaning and levelling devices has been added to the test. Therefore, if a mandatory headlamp levelling or cleaning device is missing, inoperative or otherwise obviously defective, the vehicle will fail. This raises the question of whether these checks apply to vehicles fitted with after-market HID lighting kits. These kits co

They are illegal now as the new MOT laws state the headlight must be self-levelling. Headlight washer jets are not necessary but if fitted they must work. Since starlets don't have self levelling headlights they are illegal.

You have to remove the sensor from the exhaust, hold it in free air. They do come with instructions to tell you how to do it. Been a while since I've used an innovate, can't remember if theres a button on the gauge to press or not lol. Edit: Just had a quick look, it seems as if the LC-1 can calibrate itself to compensate for wear, temp changes etc. If you want the gauge kit the MTX-L will need calibration. Seems as if the other gauge kits such as the DB, G2, G3 etc come with the LC-1 type sensor, which automatically calibrates. Take your pick, theres plenty lol: http://www.innovatemotorspor

I'm sure you have to adjust the voltage which it clamps at as it is determined by the map sensor.

Innovate are very good, but they do need calibrating every so often just to ensure they are on point. The good thing with the innovate stuff is you can data log with it, if your not going to be doing this or can't be bothered to calibrate it every 12 months, the AEM is another good option.

Getting the head skimmed is not compulsory, as long as it is straight then it will be fine. No need to get taking material off which doesn't need to come off. Its harder to put material on than it is to take off. That said, it is advised to atleast get it checked, if its going to a machine shop to be checked, may as well get it skimmed for the sake of like 20 quid. The head bolts are TTY, do NOT re-use them! Once they have been torqued they would have gone past their elastic limit, next time you use them they will NOT provide sufficient clamping force and you may even end up snapping the head

To locate the gasket on the block correctly, there are I believe 2 water ways on the inlet side, if you line the gasket up (same shape cut outs) with the specific water way in the block you should be fine mate If your still not sure mate, post up some pics

Put the headgasket on the wrong way by the sounds of it. Someone over on TGTT did the same thing not so long ago, see if I can find it bare with us. Edit heres the vid: And thread is here: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?100315-Monumental-PAS-leak-(

Probably the biggest problem, even a VF35 will do but they don't come up very often either. And expect to pay quite a price for them.

I know AEM do a water/meth injection kit, but not too familier with that brand so can't say how well it works, I know it is slightly cheaper than the AquaMist gear, but I suppose you get what you pay for. http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-methanol-injection-kits-23/?osCsid=ltvndj563stlpqo5hr1guf8090 AEM seem to claim that you can increase your peak horsepower 15-20% and 20-25% torque. I find these figures very optimistic, but nonetheless, you will get a gain, how much would depend on the setup etc.

I think the scooby did, I do know that some car models have intercooler spray as a factory fit, like the RA model, not sure if its actually directly plumbed into the intake or if its indirect like using a spray bar on to the cooler.

Could be mate, I'm not 100% sure, best person to ask is Socks as he has the full Roose hose kit on his car

Was run on a switch mate, I wouldn't advise doing it this way, it was just purely an experiment lol. But I never had the chance to find out how effective it was really because I needed a programmable management system to get the true potential out of it.

Try Roose Motorsport, they can make you up a custom pipe. I've never seen a silicone one made of the water hoses at the back, I may be wrong.

Good to hear its just a bit of time its cost you mate. Let us know how you get on/ if the car feels better now

Not run one on a starlet, have run a cheapo system before on another engine. Was never dyno'd so never really got to see the true performance outcome from it. Best kits are probably the aquamist stuff tbh, been around for years and good quality products. Though they are not that cheap. My cheapo kit I made out of using a windscreen washer pump, and used the washer bottle as the reservoir, and had a brass jet located near the throttle body Only trouble I had was that the jet kept clogging up as I wasn't always using distilled water, so the chalk and other shit in the water was clogging the je

Water injection injects a fine mist of water into the inlet stream. There are a number of places you can put the jet, all have their advantages. Placing the jet before the turbo compressor cools the air going into the turbo, increasing its efficiency, allowing more boost without the added drawback of adding heat. As we know that compressing air induces heat into the charge. Placing the jet after the intercooler allows the air to be cooler before it goes into the engine, cooler air allows more ignition advance in the map, and this is where power is gained through ignition. There are many diffe

Inlet sounds interesting Matt! It does sound as if decreasing spool time is what your after, you could look into water injection which will help you out slightly, raising the compression ratio or fiddle with the gear ratio's. Anti-lag is ok if you got good brakes as it takes away some of, if not all of engine braking, so there will be much more heat going into the brakes.

My opinion would be to leave it if its not going to net you anymore power, you also have to take into account that the turbo will start to become un-efficient the higher up the rev range you go, so power could start to drop off quite rapidly, that said if you raise the rev limit you might be able to net a slightly longer powerband without dropping too much power.

Looks fine mate, thats carbon build up from combustion. If it was fuelling related it would be a wet look. I would say you either have the ignition timing not setup correctly or the spark plug gaps. It would now seem a problem is more obvious since the ecu is more aggressive with its fuelling and ignition timing.

No need to go raising the rev limit if the turbo isn't able to provide the power beyond x rpm. Best bet is to ask TD it if they see any scope by raising the rev limit. Although theres no harm in changing over to a stiffer valve spring and solid buckets Whats the current rev limit at as well? Stock 7200?

Running rich will melt a piston, hence why you run rich on start up because it warms the engine up faster. I've also done it as an experiment to look at the piston material structure after it has melted. A spark plug should not be full of carbon after 100 miles of driving. A small amount of black deposits is normal. Your all getting the ignition timing wrong! The ecu has an ignition advance feature, this is not STATIC it is dynamic. The ignition advances depending on the parameters it sees from the sensors. The STATIC ignition advance for this engine is 10 degrees BTDC. Changing the ecu will

Static ignition timing should be 10 BTDC. And the PLUGS BEING BLACK MEANS ITS RUNNING RICH! The plugs should be a tanned brown colour, much like your mrs when she slaps on fake tan! I would check the static ignition timing with a timing light and ensure that it is AT or as close to 10 BTDC, them 2 degrees can make all the difference. Failing that you could have an ignitor problem seeing as you've replaced the wear and tear components. Guide here on how to set your static ignition timing: http://www.toyotagtt...w to set timing I would advise not to boost the car until you can figure exactly