AdamB

I'm sure there are two types of FTE head? one has the water way open, the other closed, so the correct gasket needs to be applied.

For the money you can't beat scat, pec, wossner kits. If you got more money then CP pistons and pauter rods. Although other brands are tried and tested for a fraction of the cost. In fairness you would probably be better off buying a pre-built engine package, I wouldn't trust a normal garage to build me a forged motor, that saying I don't know where you plan on taking it.

You want as strong spring as possible, don't forget you can't run lower than base spring pressure. I would stick a 0.7 bar spring in there, and just use the EBC to run 1.1 bar, and turn it off when you want to run 0.7

There are two pins you can link together which runs the fuel pump constantly, all you have to do is remove the feed from the fuel rail. I'll see if I can find what pins it is. Edit.. If you bridge B+ and FP in the diagnostic port it will run the fuel pump.

As Asad said really, find out whos going to map it first. It all depends on your budget really, the Link G4 will cover everything and from what i've heard is piss easy to install. In terms of price I don't think you can beat the DTA S60 though. Also factor in the tech support you or your tuner may need, no point going with one manufacturer to get shit tech support.

I read that these guys were discharged from hospital already? Very lucky indeed, but shows what a proper roll cage can do!

Millers do a "running in" oil, I've used it before and done the job ok and had no problems. Just down to personal preference really as everyone tends to use a different brand. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60229-millers-oils-cro-10w-40-competition-running-in-oil.aspx Looks as though its been packaged different to when I used it a few years ago, used to come in a blue tub lol. Ah it's not too bad, going slowly but getting there lol. Just need a turbo and clutch then I can start building the motor. Was going to go for the ECC twin plate but after they released the price the other day and I nearly vomited all over my laptop I think I may steer clear

Its not really about the miles you rack up, its how hard you push the engine. If the engine is pushed hard and you want the rings to last run a larger piston-wall clearence and a larger ring gap unless you can afford to rebuild the motor every 5000 miles you could always run smaller clearences.

And thats where power is made or lost

That would be the best way mate, you wouldn't wanna waste or ruin an expensive engine.

Grab a bargain people! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221098536914

You would be better off trying to mate 2 varients of VF series turbo's together.

Argh no knock sensor is a problem. Will the stock FTE ecu mate up with the EFE wiring loom plugs? In all honesty, without running a knock sensor is asking for trouble even with a tuned ecu. The ecu would need to be setup for various different intake temps, this alone will cost a lot of money in tuning time. Without a knock sensor EFI is pretty much useless imo, might as well run carbs. Does the block have a fitting for the knock sensor or is it just a case of the wiring loom doesn't have it featued? If its a case of the wiring is not featured it would be more beneficial to swap the loom over to an FTE one.

Make sure its set to wastegate then rather than actuator. I agree with Phil, I had a blitz dual SBC and it was shit, I spent about an hour plumbing it in, took it out on the road, tried to set it up and it didn't wanna know, kept overboosting no matter what I did. Done about 3 pulls of overboost, drove the car back home and wripped it out, all in the space of about 2 hours.

I'm sure most engines do have camshaft ball bearings on the outer ends, in fairness though I haven't stripped down a 4e/5e that far to notice. It could be the alternator as the bearings can go in them and is on that side.

The only thing I can think of is if the stock 4efe ecu will be able to recognise a 2 bar map sensor, like that of a stock gt/glanza. If you can get that to work all you would need is to run a fpr, raise the fuel pressure and run it in safely, or if you got an AFR gauge you can get it more accurate, but obviously wouldn't advise going balls out without having it checked atleast on an AFR gauge. You would be best to run the turbo from the outset as it will put load on the rings and bearings to bed them in. Otherwise when boost hits them they will get a shock lol. I looked at the GT25 only a few days ago, and I think its the larger trim which is better suited (GT2560) with a .48 turbine housing would go really well! Are you going to be building it yourself?

The blitz uses a percentage as boost, you need to adjust this percentage. Set the gain to 5, and the percentage to like 30. Don't forget it won't go any lower than the boost level the actuator is set to. So if the actuator is set at 1 bar the EBC will not go lower than that and the actuator will need to be adjusted first.

You mean the camshaft pulley? No it won't be including in a timing belt kit, as far as I know you only get the idler pulley plus the belt.

Think its probably around £400 plus parts to build a gearbox, costly indeed

Pick it up and put it through the window lol, probably cost around the same amount as a respray ;)

^^^ LMFAO! Burny's mrs has now got a blonde top with a brown bottom! (No puns intended)

lol that you in the pic then

Slacken the belt off a little

I would advise gonig for a electronic boost controller where the gain can be adjusted, as a lot of EG the valve lifts off its seat too early, around 50% of peak boost pressure, which then leads to lagging the last 50% of peak boost.

You could gasket match the ports, and if funds allow get a 3 angle valve cut on the valve seats, this will allow a much better flow into and out of the head. I wouldn't then bother going with anymore modifications the head as it will perfectly fine at the boost pressure you plan on running, and even slightly more. I would go for a 1.2-1.4mm gasket, if you was going for a standalone system you could run thinner with ease due to the extra control, but since this is not the case I wouldn't advise it. I would try and stick around the stock 8.2:1 ratio, its quite a low ratio to begin with compared to modern turbocharged engines. What GT25 are you looking at? As I know there a few different varients in trim. But they should all be much more efficient than a td04 at around 1-1.1 bar of boost, although from what i've seen the gt25 seems to tail off top end quite a lot compared to the td04. But the GT25 will be a hell of a lot more reliable, the only problem is the expense if it goes wrong, as long as its well looked after you shouldn't see any problems The main reason why a lot of tuners reduce ignition timing is because its easy, quick, and they can get the job in and out in a faster time. If it was my business, I would ensure that the engine runs to the best ability that it could, if it means spending an extra day or so to work on, i'm sure my customer would be happier with a car that has 10 more bhp and 30 ft/lbs of torque more just by spending extra time on it. The problem lies with the customer mainly though, how much can you afford to spend on dyno time? If it was a race engine then my previous post stands true, trying to gain every last horsepower. But hey, what do I know, i'm not a tuner, I'm a student engine designer ;)