AdamB

As above^^^ Running any sort of meth mixture is a completely different ball game to running petrol. As Sam said, near enough the entire fuel system has to be changed if you plan on running it for a lengthy period of time, the stock fuel lines can't take it, fpr, etc. You won't notice any real difference unless the car is mapped for it, running meth changes the air/fuel ratio regardless of what mixture you run, you could end up causing more damage than good. There's a hell of a lot more to know about fuel than just the octane rating! ;) Infact octane rating means shit, the MON rating is more important! When buying race fuels look at the MON rating ;)

You lucky shit, the same turbo i'm going for near enough, although i'm going for the next one down, the 60r. Although i'm going to be running the tial V-band stainles turbine housing. You go for the wepr kit? Looks posh mate! You won't be dissapointed.

If your thinking of changing, deffo go garrett ;)

Thanks for that mate, I thought that would be the case but just wanted to make sure and get some opinions on it. Like Sock's said, when you mention stainless people think that it will crack because of the amount of cheap ebay crap out there.

Good thread mate, kind of a bit drawn into tihs myself, going to be ordering my mani soon from Zisco. Anyone had any bad things with their stainless? I much prefer the look of stainless, but if mild is going to be more durable then i'll go for that.

You can run it on whatever fuel you want, thats the great thing with EFI, the knock sensor does all the hard work! I've run a glanza before on 95, and boosted it and never had a problem what so ever.

Octane boosters don't work, been proven. If it was me I would run the fuel but get it checked on a wideband, you can never be too sure if it's lost its properties so could be running lean, could be causing knock. The amount your saving per litre, it's worth spending £40 to get it checked on a wideband and a set of det cans.

The fuel will be ok to use, but its knock properties will be a lot less than what it will be if you buy from the pumps. Saying that fuel is still classified as "old" by the time it gets to the pumps anyway! Octane boosters are a waste of time and money, been proven not to work and infact more likely to decrease horsepower/put your engine in danger. I looked into using acetone before as it is easily available and cheap, but it doesn't quite offer the same heat energy output as the likes of petrol, methanol, meth etc.

Damn! If you had a set of 4 of the gram lights I probably would of had them

Wouldn't trust buying them off ebay. Probably not genuine items and won't do you any favours in an accident.

Tell us what it is and someone may own up

With the steering wheel off centre and the actual wheels are straight thats the alignment out.

Ditch them shitty blitz ebc's, I had one in my car for 5 minutes literally, plumbed it in, took it for a blast, boosted to 1.1 bar, drove back and took it out. The amount of threads i've seen with these blitz ebc is unreal. Their only fit for the bin, AVCR is the way to go.

GT30 is about twice the size of a td04 lol. I would try one of the kits Socks has posted, atleast try newer technology, dual ball bearing FTW

That is fucking epic, got to be one of the top 10 posts ever on the internet! The detail and describing things was just quality! Feel sorry for the lad lol

http://www.futuremotorsports.com/STAGE-1-4EFTE-BUILT-SHORT-BLOCK-300whp.html Any good?

Probably best to contact a trader then mate and ask them if they have any good blocks laying around which they can rebuild up or whatever if your wanted 0 miles on it.

Toyota is your best bet to offer all genuine items as a complete short block motor, although be prepared to pay a premium! I doubt anyone on here will be able to find a brand new block. Best bet is to find a stock motor with tight bores then you can squeeze in the stock pistons.

Never heard of that before with a seal lol. Just because a headgasket is new doesn't maen it should leak gas ;) Take it back mate and say your not happy with the service.

How many cylinder heads you got to practice on and how bigs your wallet? lol. 60 bottom cut, 45 valve seat cut and a 30 top cut is a general idea. To get the exact angle will need a lot of time, patients and money.

Most probably the sump mate, shouldn't put oil in the engine until the sealent has had a few hours to dry.

The oil pressure will drop as engine speed decreases, just the same it will increase with engine speed. You checked for vac leaks? Cleaned the ICV?

Better get there quick buddy! With that caravan he could be thinknig of doing a runner

She looks like a girl I went to school with

The reason I went with Pauter was because I didn't want to notch the block, touching the material at all could induce stress fractures/cracks. Yes you can sonic test for these, but you won't ever find a problem until you are running serious pressures in the combustion chamber.