AdamB

Meister do sell stiffer springs if you wish ;)

Thought they were £399 over here? Might of seen that price on TD website. They do the job but wouldn't be my choice of rod which is why i've gone with Pauter.

Both! LOL! Yeah can't see how one set would be more suited to the track, it's all about how the geomoetry is setup.

Or this one which is shorter with a different camera angle ;)

Read a bad review on the mazda 3mps about them overfuelling as standard and you get carbon deposits behind the intake valves, when the deposits fall off they can detonate on the chamber and causes some serious damage! My mate also has one and they aren't a very good chassis, torque steer like crazy, probably won't be so bad with an lsd though.

Use a spanner mate, thats how I did it, remember a spanner has 4 sides to it ;)

Damn that's a lot! lol. Atleast it gets your build back on the go though!

I pay £1040 on a GT, 20 with 3 NCB

Glanza's are much more expensive to insure than GT's, thats probably about the going rate for a glanza.

Another win for the Toyota Good going lad

x2

Top man! Let me know bud ;)

Cheers mate, looked on bidjdm but nothing on there either

As title really, after the gold toyota emblem that goes on the boot

Ah shit If you see one let me know bud ;) Don't wanna get one off egay for it to be a non genuine one.

Do you know if Toyota still do them mate? Yeah did think most of them would be sprayed and not genuine.

Have the pistons and rods been sold or do they come with the rest of the engine?

Best off doing a compression/sniff test mate, Peace of mind.

Steve you ever seen the optional gold toyota emblem's? I'm after one, few on ebay but not sure if they are genuine toyota ones as they are all different shades of gold lol.

Epid build Lew, love them wheels! Even tempted by a set myself although I don't wanna copy anyone else

Just loop the line from the outlet to the return on the thermo housing. Only will need the oil line and a return to the sump.

Does that mean no grinding and chopping?

You don't have to run the water lines, it's only there to further aid cooling, which the oil does on its own.

Check the engine number above the 5E stamp. Toyodiy might be able to tell you or failing that i'm sure Toyota can

That's because they are running methanol with AFR's as rich as 3:1. It's the inlet temps which bring on detonation, higher intake temps, detonation is more likely to occur. The cooler the charge the more timing advance you can add to the map. It's the low compression of these engines which keep them "safe" I would go with an fmic, you won't regret it and for the same price as an arc tmic, you then have the chance to plan for the future if you need to without having the hassle to sell and buy again. The zisco one looks good with very little cutting.