AdamB

You could always gain that little bit more out of a standalone, every little piece is slightly better, but all those little pieces make a large gain. Mainly due to the control over components like injectors and coils, reducing the risk of det and gaining more power and a more useable vehicle.

Or get Shane tecklenburg to map it online ;) How far you willing to travel, fensport, AFR tuning.

I'm sure the gearbox components itself are the same, just the casing and diff are different. The c52 and c56 box are the same but have slightly different ratio's between them.

Theres only 2 people on the powerboard that would gain an advantage of running a larger inlet and throttle body. Spuddy and Alan, and even then I'm sure Alan is running a stock intake manifold at 440bhp!

It depends what "full boost" is. You will make 0.8 bar quicker than 1.9 bar. I'm going to be running the newer version the GTX series turbo on a 5e and hoping for 1.6 bar around 4000rpm.

If its going on a 4e I would stick with the smallest trim which is the 2860. Will get good spool and a massive surge of power. They are good for about 340-360bhp.

If you want the best grip it has to be cusco MZ! Goldenvtr is running one on his 5e 300+bhp and he gets no wheelspin. They are like £900 brand new though, not putting me off buying one

^^^ Thats Genius!

Quaife is best for a daily car, or a car thats used more often than a weekend/show car. Noise free and requires no maintenence at all!

Braided oil feed sold. Price drop on other items.

Dom doesn't come on here often so i'll answer for him lol. It made 210bhp at the fly @ 0.9 bar mate. Its running Tein coilovers on the front and a shock and spring setup at the rear. I know Dom personally and hes a good lad, car is in very good condition and goes well, could do with some more boost lol.

Like I said, its ok to use on cheap shitty turbo's that are readily available, but I wouldn't want to be spending £700 replacing the CHRA on my garrett for the sake of not running a BOV. It is noticeable different if your running higher boost setups, running a stock-mild setup you won't really notice anything other than a different noise. They are there so that when you let off the throttle taking a bend, then get back on it again, the turbo is not stalling.

What an ass, I'll have to check what thread size my sensor is, I've got STRI racing gauges, I'm pretty sure they are 1/8 PT. As said you can get them tapped to suit a different size easily enough. Edit... Just checked my manual and the water temp thread size is 1/8 PT. SO this will fit STRI sensors Thanks Azz!

The whole idea of running a BOV mate ;) They wern't invented to sound good, they were invented to do a job!

Sorry but... Previous Owners 11. Thats enough to nearly make me cry

Running without a DV isn't a problem, although on more expensive turbos like garrett,precision etc I personally would because it puts less strain on the bearings when air tries rushing back through the turbo and stalling the compressor.

Thanks buddy

Offers

Reieved mine today, thanks Iddy! ^^^ x2

Tial

Damn I was going to get this

Let us know if that fits ok mate, looking to fit mine in the same place ;)

From what i've seen/experienced a force induction engine produces peak power with an AFR between 11.4-12.2 and an N/A engine between 12-12.6. Although it will vary slightly due to every engine taking more/less ignition.

I never once said anything bad about you being a mechanic Sam, but you even said so yourself you have never mapped a car before? How can you go around giving advice to people that is likely to ruin their engine? Yes maybe Charl's car runs fine with an AFR of 13:1 WOT, but the chances are not EVERY engine likes this. Every engine should be checked with a wideband and det cans, and even then this isn't exactly perfect! To get an exact sweet tune every sensor the engine uses needs to be datalogged to ensure its reading correctly at all sorts of engine loads.

Theres more to it than just having the "perfect" Stoichiometric lambda. An N/A engine will be totally different to a force induction engine, for starters it has a higher compression ratio, the higher the ratio the higher the octane rating needs to be to keep det away. Also an N/A engine is only able to draw air in at 14.7 psi or atmospheric pressure on the intake stroke. Even then if you take into account the resistance to flow before the air even gets into the cylinder your N/A engine will only be sucking in around 12 psi of air. This is around a 10% drop in peak power! Running an AFR of 13