AdamB

What management are you going to be using is probably the most important factor. 550's will be fine and will keep the fuel pressure fairly low. You'll ideally need a minimum injector size of 466cc/min to get 300bhp safely with a max duty cycle of 90%, you could go higher on the duty cycle upto like 95% but that's down to how comfortable your tuner is with running that sort of figure.

The reason why is to maintain clean and fresh oil, with a newly built engine theres going to be a lot of metal swarf flying around that you don't want to get into particular areas like bearing shells or turbos etc which will cause damage. Changing it often reduces the chances of any damage occuring

I doubt anyone has ever done it properly and had one on a flow bench. It's all done in terms of power made.

You can make over 400bhp on a stock inlet if you use nitrous. It really depends on the turbo you use as for example a GT30 will flow more air (CFM) than a td04 will at the same boost pressure.

1.4 bar then you start really going away from its efficiency zone. Pushing it to 1.5/1.6 bar will yield very very little gains due to the increase in heat.

Read my post #4

bumps

Anything unsprung will do, you will probably want to keep an eye on it as launching with it will burn the friction puks out.

Do a leak down test mate, much more accurate than a compression test and will give you a percentage on how much gas is escaping from the cylinder

Comp clutch stage 4 will do, its the torque that matters not bhp.

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Hampshire mate.

Bump

Spacers will alter the track of the vehicle, making the track wider therefore making the car handle better in the twisties.But it does make the steering heavier. Depends how you like your car to feel tbh, or just do it the proper way and get a wheel with the correct offset, something like ET25 or a tad lower.

Yeah or Ultra Racing. Even Cusco if you can find them

£2100 for the entire kit! Really need this gone.

Head bolts: Stage 1 - 22 Nm Stage 2 - 44 Nm Stage 3 - 90 degrees (roughly 55 Nm I believe) Camshaft cap : 13 Nm Conrod bolts I'm not sure on.

Do not run wheel spacers whatever you do, they will change the scrub radius, changing your steering geometry something you won't wanna be doing if your going to be tracking the car.

You could build the mother of all forged E series engine for that price

You would benefit more from updated anti roll bars mate. Get those first I would say😊

I think they will fit, you can get 300mm discs in team dynamics wheels. You might need to get the right offset to not catch the caliper on the spokes though.

Yes with ET35 or lower offset.

It doesn't really matter whether its fine or not, dirt particles are carried through the air. The way I see it is that manufacturers spend millions of pounds a year on research into filters making them flow well and filter, why spend £2 to fuck it all up? The restriction a branded air filter makes these days is very little and the power you would get from running without a filter probably around 2bhp, you'll soon claw that 2bhp after 500 miles without running a filter through worn piston rings. Even racing engines use air filters and their run on supposedly a clean smooth track, they value their engines and their only run for a for what a total of say 2000 miles a season including testing and qualifying etc. I would like to see a the inside of a road engine thats been run in traffic, round dirty country lanes, behind other cars etc which has been run without a filter. It really depends how much you value performance over reliability at the end of the day. Just my opinion

You'll probably get boost creep mate, will be certain with an aftermarket exhaust as well. I wouldn't advise mesh in any case what so ever, the dirt and shit that get sucked into the engine turns into a grinding paste which won't be doing your piston rings, cylinder walls, piston skirts, valve seats and valves any good.

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