richardc9052

Yeah didnt spot the location. Your going to need injectors for sure. If the stuff is hard to get, may as well order td04 stuff as it will run much better. and an ecumaster det3 to map it.

I said nothing about internals..

best off using the 4efte wiring and ecu. and bolting all 4efte stuff on. Ive done it a few times now and its the best way unless you go hybrid or td04 then you want it mapping. In which case i recommend an ECUMaster DET3 in FIT mode. Also with a decat the ct9 will creep to just under fuel cut which suits perfectly as it gradually upps the boost. I ran this way on an engine for over 12 months and its still going with new owner of 2 years ;)

Colin I need that manifold. I'll pm you in a bit.

No it's in the crusher! Was a cool car though. I ran a 13.7 quarter mile in it and I completely fucked the run.. crossed at like 50 odd mph. The owner is a lunatic but a genius lol. Currently waiting for his 2015 car to run out of warranty so he can 4e it lolol

2nd engine with irs. Solved power and handling in one 😂😂

Just put a second engine in the back ;) weight distribution sorted ;) it works quite well

You don't need to touch the two bolts for the reverse selector of you remove the ball bearing it just slides out when you lift the bellhousing off, then slide it back in before closing box back up

Just for shits and giggles I'll say rotary. Because id say it's not been done before, they sound awesome, it's not a Honda engine, technically still a 1.3 ;), it's not a Honda engine and finally, it's not a Honda engine

Yeah everything on it was swapped to arp

It was a business order. So thankfully the actual customer didn't have to worry but they lost any future orders. Sad thing was the garage owner was actually going to start stocking the bits needed, hence why he ordered 3 head gaskets to start off.

All They said to me is that's the gasket they use in their own cars and customer builds. And that I should get the flatness of the head and block checked again. That's it... and the head and block were perfectly flat and where not touched again when we fit an actual Athena gasket from idworkz. Everything has been fine since.

But the problem here is that the force of the compressed air from the turbo has to be at least equal or greater than the force of the exhaust gasses in order to create a stall situation. Also given the housing and wheel sizes, the turbine size is generally smaller as it is made to make maximum use of the force from the exhaust vs the larger compressor side. Taking that into account means that the compressed air would have to create much more force than the exhaust to create a stall event in the turbo. What it will most certainly do is cause the exhaust wheel to be more difficult to turn whi

If your gonna go the way of using oem pistons go 4efte. If you must use n.a pistons go for 5efe as they will give the lowest compression of the lot.

Here we go again. Ps I'm in the May do damage although I don't care enough to be bothered as it's cool as fuck camp

No that's shit it fuels like a stand-alone

Fuel implant software: http://www.ecumaster.co.uk/pobierz/det3/EcumasterDET3_FI_1_30.exe User manual: http://www.ecumaster.co.uk/pobierz/det3/Digital%20ECU%20Tuner%20III%20-%20FIT%20Manual%20English.pdf Usb Driver: http://www.ecumaster.co.uk/pobierz/other/CDM20824_Setup.exe

The software is free to download online. You have to use the correct program so you will want them to use the fuel implant client

The best setup I found for mine before I want turbo was: Jdm 100ps 4efe 20v 4age mani modified to 4efe flange Full straight 2" with backbox Full 4efte engine loom, inlet mani, tb and sensors 4efte clutch and flywheel I would recommend either c56 lad Levin box or c160 lsd if your on track and a lightened flywheel. That way it's still all "standard" parts apart from exhaust and flywheel

It's n.a.. if your not prepared to make sacrifices you won't get every last drop out of it and believe me, your squeezing a dry lemon.

2" straight pipe. Depending on noise restrictions

If you just want it for launch control then go standard client. Otherwise go fuel implant. Stand-alone fuelling gives very good map possibilities. I would say, given the amount of combinations of inputs I would just let the person mapping it do the wiring. Plus the fact that in fuel implant mode you can't drive the car without a map so you would have to tow the car there if you hardware it.