GP82

I Don't think it matters what application, the principle remains the same for fastners, more surface area engaged in the thread that increases friction and with a higher torque down value, you will net a stronger clamping force. I'm asking here because this is a forum for a specific platform

Okay thanks, yeah sure I have seen the Supra guys run 12mm studs and the threads are cut finer as well as sticking out more from the stud horizontally. This will yield a higher clamping force with a higher torque value, much more then a 10 and 11mm stud. I was just wondering is it possible to do this on a 4EFTE engine regarding packaging issues, not going into water or oil galleries and what not. I am planning to use stronger main caps with a girdle of some sort so to prevent cap walk and keep the crankshaft locked into the engine.

HP aim is approx. 550 - 600. The turbo is meant to achieve this on our engine with 25 - 29psi boost pressure

I already have studs in the motor, but the power i'm aiming for i know the cylinder pressure's will blow the cylinder block and cylinder head into smithereens. It's been long time since I looked at the 4E engine so will check it out. My main focus is reliabilty. Any input on building a strong motor appreciated.

Is it possible to or has anyone got to install 11 even 12mm head studs to a 4EFTE cylinder block?! Also what is available regarding steel main line caps + fastners and main line girdle to support crankshaft for high hp output? Any input appreciated from a proven, reliable, fail safe build. Looking to get this right one time.

Go on then rasslenny engine bay looking good!! Jakemb96, davies700, glazagee, aleximport25, scoobysvx, stu, all engine bays looking mad! Some crazy setups in here, great thread!

Hey that link to the turbo, it has a square t25 exhaust housing! In my opinion you can't beat a stock factory turbocharger, one in good condition with lowish miles.

Yeah clean off all the leaking oil completely then run the engine up and just look to see where it is leaking from. Good luck.

Not a good sign. I would do a compression test and you be lucky if it was just a seal

Yes it would, but not always. I have seen that sometimes whilst driving it could pop up and go away then when you do the diagnostics the fault code will be stored in the ecu. Have you checked all you ignition components: spark plugs, leads inc. king lead, dizzy cap, rotor arm, coil pack. Also check your cam belt timing and ignition timing.

You cannot map the standard ecu but, you can add a piggybank to it like an E-manage, AEM Fic etc or you go full standalone for the best and safe engine control. There are also the plug and play ecu's which work great but, only if you know what engine settings the ecu is made for.

You ran diagnostics?!

The oil pump is driven by the timing belt! Yeah check the oil pick up is not blocked, there is also a rubber ring seal which where the oil pick up bolts down onto the block, if this has broke or disturbed the engine will struggle to build oil pressure.

Trust no one.

You look where the pump seats on the block. The pump with the seal will have a groove in the block for it, this is EP91 cylinder block. The EP82 block has flat face and no groove for seal.

If you have not done so then start with the hi/lo boost bypass! You got good bolt on mods, i would suggest a front mount cooler then tweak that hks actuator and it will be quick.

Horse power level and boost pressure ratio do play a part in selecting the right plug heat range, but actually it's a combination of all, more so the heat thats created from combustion. For example you could have a high compression engine producing 180hp but would still require relatively colder spark plug then a lower compression engine producing 280hp.

Also worth checking the coil pack and king lead.

Really nice well maintained GT. If i had the cash would have took it off you. Good luck with the sale!

Does the neo let you have any control over spark timing?! See the thing is with the fcd and rrfpr the spark timing is gonna be all over the place and will not be a true tune and potentially run into problem. For CT9 hybrid a plug & play or emanage ultimate or aem fic or anything that at the minimum gives you control to pull spark timing out where neccessary would be better. The stock fuelling system can cater for your setup easy and more then capable. I'm jus' saying that alot of drivers think beefing up the fuel system will make there setup safe, infact it jus' makes it a headache to

You only running 0.6 bar boost pressure on the hybrid. I would incremently increase boost and monitor the fuelling and check/ listen for det

Nice Picture!!

I had front mount cooler, exhaust, pod air filter and was running 18 - 19 psi on a ct9 hybrid and was around 170hp and it was the most amazing drive, soo much fun.

Personally I would remove the FCD, get the 255 in and run low boost like 8 - 10 psi, You will be fine, but best to check fueling.

I get positive pressure from 3k, by 4k boost guage shows 5psi. 4.5k is full boost but it really starts going after 5k and keeps building power to 8.5k. I get peak boost of 21 psi in 5th gear because i'm running boost by gear.