GP82

The strong td05’s come from the older evo’s, the td05h’s, very robust turbo’s, but requires different manifold. A factory td05 16g is a great all round reliable turbo, best turbo for fast road street imo and will net 300hp. They do some real fancy one's now if you look. The Tomei turbo's are currently on sale which are superrrb imo. You can't go much wrong with a VF setup like a 24, 28, 29, 30, 34. The A/R size of the exhaust turbine housings on the Japanese turbos are labelled in metric (mm), so for example a P18 equals to 0.71 inch using conversion 18 divide 25.4 (mm to inch). I would no

Yes Dan good driving! I want to see the GT in action again. The vids with the VF setup were mad, proper street machine.

These tyres are good dry, warm surface condition only. You cannot drive a car in wet conditions with these tyres also be prepared to have some crazy road noise from them, soo loud it gets you thinking something wrong with the car. Personally semi slick tyre i'm a Yoko AO48 medium compound guy, they jus' work so well on my setup. If you wanna get more mileage outta them you go hard compound at the compromise of little less grip until you get heat in them. The medium compound are reccommended for use upto 6k miles. I always manage to get between 8 and 9k miles. I think this is because the EP is

Good advice! X2 good to check clearences with plastiguage for a visual reference, it's good practice because a bearing can potentially be marked wrong. I used a telescopic bore gauge to check the mainline tunnel and big end's then plastiguage for the visual reference.

See how it goes with the stock injectors, they should be more then enough. If for any reason you running outta fuel jus' go the next size up like a 315cc or maybe 330

I have ran upto 25 psi on the stock ignition and it has been fine with iridium plugs, stock leads. As said when all the ignition parts are in good condition it will be fine.

Really nice work! Is this done on a CNC machine!?

I'm still in the process of getting all the parts together.

Nice video! Great run. Car looks good, sound's and goes well!

You done diagnostics check!?

It's a great hybrid this. The best one in my opinion although I ran a gen 2 which did not have the 360 thrust bearing so maybe gen 3 can push little more boost. Purchase it from Speedvision as there are hoax one's on ebay.

You have to cut the sides the socket, so the bit that protrudes when you tighten, so it can clear the bucket/shim housing on the cylinder head.

Just putting this here. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/98746-pro-gram-billet-main-caps-toyota-13l-4efte/ Was wondering it would be good to know which main cap broke on engines that have had this issue. On the pictures above the user said it was cap no: 1, closest to the timing belt. Would be good to know if this a common trend on engines running at this power level for future reference and you have been warned, if your going for this sort of power level, just keep this in mind. I don’t think it’s worth the risk especially when you put in this much money into build. I have emai

Thanks for your input. You can compare with other setups regarding spool time and useable power bands, but this turbo you cannot compare it to a garrett. Yes I understand not everyone will share all there knowledge, tips and tricks, but from all the info I have gathered over the years, from speaking to members, engine builders, tuners I think I have a good idea of what’s required atleast I hope so.

I am gonna be taking my engine out soon. It’s covered approx. 50k running just over 300 hp and 20 + psi boost pressure. I will get pictures of the all the bearing’s to see what condition they are in. I think if there is no issues with alignment, cap walk, good oil clearances, using good and right grade of oil and correct oil pressure, there should not be a problem. I am aiming to make this a minimal maintaince motor regarding changing bearing’s every so often. I think the most damage to the bearings occur’s on cold starts.

Yeah sure I will. I see what your saying with the ARP studs that have a higher torque down value and so a bigger clamping force which could cause stress on the stock caps, but I don't think this was the case because the engine ran for many year's and covered many miles and so I would have expected this too happen much earlier in the engine's life.

Yeah steam pipe SC40 get's my vote. Very tough and last's many heat cycle's and test of time. Only thing is it can get surface rust, but this does not affect anything performance wise.

Even with the stronger main caps, there will still be cap walk and something's gonna come flying out the block. Some sort of girdle to go with the caps will be good I think...

Thanks Phil. Yeah won't be filling the block because road car, but I am looking into ideas for upper cylinder block strength. The core of the turbo is a Ihi RX6D with custom trims and housings to achieve the power aim. Would you believe it the turbo is like 4 times the size of a ct9, but weighs half of the weight of a ct9. Very light components in there with very tight tolerances is what makes it able to spool up relatively quick.

Why not?! I use boost by gear. Good supsension setup and tyres will help, but that's something to work around after.

Thanks Robsr, I have checked out Spuddy's build and also spoke with AnimalGT over PM's. What amazing builds they are and proof that it can be done with the right ingredients in the recipe. I am going to check out the monstorous build's that are Dylan's and Zisco. I think with the main caps, it is hit and miss because they are cast, but in a high hp build I don't think it's worth the risk. I have seen many engines survive and quite a few that have been let down. Here is pictures of a 4EFTE that was running approx. 300 hp. It ran with the same tune for many year's and covered many miles.

I believe the 4efte is more then capable.

Robsr I already have a motor I built myself a few years ago. I'm gonna refresh all the bearings and I wanna strengthen the rotating assembly with main caps and girdle + ideally bigger head studs. Engine spec is cp 9:1 c/r pistons solid wrist pins, carillo h beam rods. Cylinder head has been ported + polished with stiffer springs. Turbocharger is an Ihi that can outflow a garrett gt35, but spool up is closer to a gt30. Professional race and rally teams use this turbo. Definantley not a slap on and see what happens. Infact I'm approaching it with caution. Car will be used to drive on the road

Yeah that's boost pressure, but the airflow through the engine will increase considerably and so the cylinder pressures will go sky high. I known of engines that have lifted the head with the 10mm studs at approx. 400hp. Yeah sure the engine performed but started to lift the head after covering 10 - 15k mileage. I want be sure the engine lasts with consistent hard use.

Okay Your points taken thank you. I just want to collect as much info to build a reliable engine. If you do not ask, share and talk about this where there is a big audience specific for the platform then you will not know all. I'm sure there are users of this forum that have built engines for this level of power successfully.