GP82

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?2277-Hi-Low-Solenoid-Bypass

http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?2277-Hi-Low-Solenoid-Bypass

Yeah I wasn't doubting it, that's really good power from your setup. I run VF29 on 4efte @ 21psi and i'm somewhere 250 - 260whp

280whp @ 1 bar?! WoW

It's pretty straight forward Wheels off safety pin and cap off undo the hub nut with a breaker bar pull driveshaft out from inner side of the hub now you can change over boots take old ones off, new ones on with plenty high velocity grease I don't use the metal securing clips that come with the boot kits, i find that a good wide cable tie works better.

Is this for 4EFTE?! Jus' looked through notes and i shimmed to: Exhaust valves: .012 - .016 inches or .31 - .41 mm Intake valves: .006 - .010 inches or .15 - .25 mm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- T = thickness of removed shim A = measured valve clearence N = thickness of new shim Intake) N = T + ( A - .20mm) Exhaust) N = T + (A - .30mm) The shim sizes are available in seventeen increments of .002 inch or .05mm

Yes very important you check the bolt length. For the cost of new one's it's a no brainer as this is the most stressed fastner in the engine.

Yeah it's a cut off ignition + wot shifting. This actually worked really well in a friend's car thou that was a 1.8t VW/Audi engine. I liked it because it was on the car for a long time with no adverse effects to the engine and was used daily on the road and at the track. It was a 2 step soft ignition cut as it did not fully pull spark lead out when lauching. You can get the ignition cut to work on the EP no problem, but for the wot shifting if i recall correctly you gone have to make a small modifcation on/beside the clutch pedal to get the electronics in the wot box to detect your flatsh

Do a diagnostics check and report back! Sound's like your ignition timing is locked at base timing (spark advance) for safe guarding the engine.

Yeah this can happen that's why i mentioned to inspect the plugs

The only way to confirm is with a wideband reading. However you can take plugs out and inspect them, but seeing as you only spinning to 3k i think they will look black and not give a accurate indication. Is the engine getting to temperature? You can also do a diagnostics to rule out like a faulty sensor.

The main thing after you clean them is to measure the piston to confirm they are useable if a piston ring has gone.

If you keep a conservative timing map at high boost then you can run as much power as you want. It's when you overtune to get maximum power is when you will run into trouble because of high cylinder pressure. There is also a notion that high boost lifts the head, boost is nothing compared to the high cylinder pressure that is created when you run to much spark lead.

As above but i also had to remove the crank pulley, both timing belt covers. Edit: this was for a GT.

I would also check the coolant temperature sensor for the ecu. You can check change in resistance of it with a multimeter with the sensor placed in cold water and gradually bring it's temperature up.

Nothing wrong with the stock Toyota pump. The pump flows oil. The clearences/ tolerance between the bearings and journals primarily within the mainline creates the pressure.

Are you thinking about adjusting it via the distributor!? If so you set it to what the manual states for your engine.

Chuffin' SUPERB video still.

My motor is currently running 20.5 psi boost pressure with NGK iridium grade 7 plugs. I am soon going to tune for 22 - 25 psi. Is it a good idea to go to grade 8!? (colder plug)

You should get the boost guage reading as said above to rule out fuel cut and do a diagnostics. Also worth inspecting your distributor cap for cracks, rotor arm, spark plugs, leads, you can also test the coil pack.

The engine mount on the right, is it a turbo one or NA because it looks not so strong, can anybody clarify!?

Does not look epic, but I know it is: This is beyond epic, jus' read the last sentence:

HRF GT did manage 300 km/h with alot of hp and longer final drive. I'm confident i have hit 160 + in GT.

The stiffer valve springs won't just benefit the high rpm, but the whole rpm range. The stock or weak springs will limit the motors ability to reach high rpm and be consistent so i think very important part for a forged motor. With more airflow, pressure, heat the valves require good control and seal at high rpm for it's timing to make reliable consistent power. Upgrade stiffer springs will be lighter in weight so you will get less reciprocating mass in motion.

I would always recommend/advice to replace valve springs in a forged build with stiffer valve springs. Should be a mandatory upgrade if you want to make consistent power. This is because a turbo motor spins higher than normal for a given camshaft size.