GP82

You done a diagnostics test?

You will have to confirm if it's mechanical or helical type because i think there is different type oils that you need to use for each type, or does it not matter?

It corrects off speed density, but not at idle. This will be closed loop operation. Check your 02 sensor and wiring, but seem's like maybe you got a leak somewhere or restricted airflow?

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Amjad you need more neg camber at the front! More then the rear! The dampening setup will be trial and error testing to see how the car will react with the rest of your chassis setup, more importantly in relation to your spring rates. Generally you have a more dampening rate (compress and rebound) at the front on FWD then the rear, but you can increase this abit to make it more aggressive if you have a more grippier tyre. The car will also change direction faster now, so you will have to carefully dial in the rear of the chassis so to keep it stable, for more compliance in the rear. As mention

Great video Andy! Thanks for sharing.

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This is now a dench starlet mate, nice work!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtg_IucnbYc

As above, Thank You!

Hey, a droning noise usually means the brake pads are worn.

Nice Work! Cool setup.

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I run 16 + A/F on idle at operating temp. It actually burns more cleaner, aswell as being more fuel efficient. Any leaner then 17:1 A/F and it tends to eventually decrease the idle speed or cut out. If you don't have a catalytic convertor then it is fine to run this lean on idle. The car will run stoich (14.7:1) on the stock ecu so the cat does not overheat from the hotter exhaust gasses. It sound's like maybe possibly a sensor is starting to go duff causing this issue on your car, but as mentioned, the A/F is more crucial when the car is on load.

When i replaced mine, i got these: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht314-universal-o-ring-set

Ttt.

Yes the VW sump sealant works well. The Loctite 5699 grey is very good too.

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Yup there is the service bolt that should have been installed so the sub gear is aligned with the adjacent gear on the camshaft sprocket. Your gonna need to find a way so these gears on the sprocket align to let you get the service bolt through. After you have confirmed the valve clearence's, on the final assembly, you install the camshafts with the service bolt still there. After you have torqued the cam caps, you just take the service bolt off to get the gears on camshaft tensioned. Good luck.

If engine managment light has lit up, check through the diagnostics for a fault code.

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Are they for use on a EP? Seem's to look like a very high C/R piston with a dome that tall.