GP82

Ttt.

It is because the ecu need's to register activity from the knock sensor in order to safely advance the ignition timing. Without the feedback from the knock sensor, the programming within the ecu will lock the timing at 10 degrees, it is a failsafe so you don't fry your motor from detonation as a result of too much spark lead. If the ecu does not recieve this signal, how can it know how to safely advance the ignition... You will have a slow car with bunsen burner flames.

The iridiums come pre gapped, but always a good idea to check them all. Should be fine if the motor is not missfiring. Bigger gap will create a bigger spark which is good to get a cleaner burn, but it also puts more electrical strain on the coil. The Toyota ignition system is very robust, it should be ok.

Spot on mate, always safety first spesh with high risk components; steering, wheels, suspension, brakes.

Well i think the colour of the plugs look okay from here, maybe a little red or maybe it's jus' the picture, but they would need a closer inspection. Have you used like an injector cleaner or octane booster recently? I would start looking over the ignition system; rotor arm, dizzy cap, leads inc. king, coil. Could poss also be fuel cut depending on how the fcd is setup so you would need to confirm this, maybe check diagnostics for a fuel cut code.

Seem's like your ignition is locked at 10 degrees, this is like a safe mode so you don't fry your motor, but it can also be bad in regards to heat buildup if the car stays in this state for too long as the ignition timing is retarded. This has a tendency to make high egt's as the spark lead is sent late on the exhaust side. As you are getting the knock sensor code from diagnostics, i would check continuity of the knock sensor wiring from ecu to sensor.

That will mainly be the act of the RARB, you have to balance the car out with a front ARB. So for example whiteline RARB, then do away with the stock FARB and install a thicker whiteline FARB.

Hi mate, have you got a idea on how much the braces weigh approx.? Thanks.

Nice build TripleX. I hope you get some videos up of this car when you guys have finished setting it up.

Check, clean idle control valve, check the resistant values of coolant temp sensor, but i think it is poss you may need to check throttle pos sensor as you are experiencing this problem at part throttle. As you have recently changed the headgasket whip the cambelt covers off and confirm the valve timing is to factory setting in relation to crank pos.

Anyone used NGK's racing spark plugs on a EP? Do they work well or caused any issues? Any feedback appreciated, thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhuhqKji8Nk

How many jets on the nozzle do these injectors have, thanks.

Here we don't go high C/R to aid turbo spool up spesh on a road car. High c/r is to get a bigger bang, but with better then pump fuel. You have to tune the a/f and ignition advance to build cylinder pressures up quick to aid spool up. Stock c/r for a TD04 is perfect, i would go lower if your bolting a TD05 on if you want to get the max out of the setup. With a high c/r you will eventually find out that you are boost limited because detonation will start to occur at the higher boost pressures on pump fuel. You make more power per pound of boost then what each full point of compression i

Yes. Also the race cars back then were mad. The turbocharged sound effects from the Mclaren MP4-4 are amazing. Volume up after warm up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcmKJ5MhDh8&feature=share

Yeah the housings maybe of the same size, but castings must be different for the RHF and RHB cores. Was it jus' the flange on the GT28 from a TD04 or the entire housing? I think it is the same with the garrett gt series turbos with the TD04 flanged turbine housing's where they are designed new and made cast's to mate with a gt series turbo core.

I made a attempt to get one, now i've gone lazy and will not try till the roads get better. The IHI A/R turbine housing is listed in a different measurement and to convert it to what i understand is the equivalent A/R size of a garrett turbo is to divide the ihi turbine housing size by 25.4. P20, .79 P18, .71 I can confirm that the P18 turbine housing can be switched for a P20 and vice versa on the RHF series ball bearing units as they all use the same turbine wheel. I don't think the RHB series turbine housing will be interchangeable in the RHF one's as they have totally different co

Looks like a fuel cut and maybe speed cut electronics. I would get the car checked out before you start playing with it, get the fuelling checked and listen for detonation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9qZu7h5ys0

137whp

Half the vid is incorrect, for example ground strap does not indicate heat range but spark lead. Anyway inspecting a spark plug is the most accurate way of telling how good a tune is and this is not jus' WOT tune, but all engine conditions. More accurate then a afr, lead or egt feedback in my opinion.

Thanks Liam! It's from a RHF series IHI turbo. It came on the VF22 and 23. I found this pic: http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/productimages/VB660033_1.jpg It has the same flanges as a TD04l, but is much larger.

Thanks Phil, Hmm, i am not sure what size turbine is on the VF8? The P20 turbine housing i am after is no: 9.4PZ20-H 94001

Ok thanks, although i did search ebay with no luck, i will try a Subaru Impreza forum.