funny onion

I have some, PM me

Thanks for the offer, but I need a standard one unfortunately, Thanks anyways!

sounds right to me but maybe someone can confirm, I'm sure there is a wiki or something on here about it

Just had a thought, have you ever checked the static timing? lock the timing (I can't remember which ports on the diagnostic to bridge but it will be on here somewhere) and get a timing strobe and check the timing. May need advancing or retarding... I think they're meant to be set to 10deg BTDC as standard

There's a lot of sensors that contribute to start up really. If you have a load of spares you could try swapping out stuff like TPS, ICV, IAT etc.

All my turbo kits have been from WEPR and they're all spot one, great quality and never had an issue. They're really helpful and knowledgeable!

I know it's not helpful but my GT has done this for 6 years. It's always cranked more when hot, but it's never failed to start. Usually ECU temp sensor but if you've changed it...

looks like a bit of a mismatch of panels, the passenger door is a different colour/doesn't match the rear quarter, the wings are an odd colour etc. Might have been rebuilt from a shell but I would be sceptical.

Thank you! I will PM him

boing

Yeah the pump will only prime when the engine is cranking

My Advance didn't come with an LSD box either. Which parts do you need?

Bump for MAP sensor!

my gearbox is leaking oil out of the speedo cable area, and after reading this I'm worried about taking it out!

Oh good idea, I have a timing strobe so I could check the timing, never crossed my mind but could be a good shout, Thanks for the comment!

My EP70 clutch cylinder was different, the 4EFTE one fits but the reservoir sits at a proper angle.

Yeah I was led to believe that too. Mineral oil is thicker than semi etc. Nah it won't need flushing I would say just swap to 10w40 if that's what you want to do!

I'd have to wire and led in to the loom- the 70 never had an ECU so no light on the dash

Thanks for the reply Colin. It boosts absolutely fine, and idles fine, it sets off ok off the clutch but as soon as you're off the clutch it just won't go. I have a wanted thread up for a map sensor though So if I get one I will definitely try it if nothing else sorts it for sure

Full Synthetic? I always believed the 5w was the viscosity when cold and the 40 was the viscosity at operating temps. i.e. 5w40 is slightly thinner when cold compared to 10w40. I use 10w40 Semi synth on all mine. My GT warm idles at 1000rpm and the oil pressure is never less than 14PSI.

Ah good call that one hadn't crossed my mind, I have a few so I will change it, can't hurt to try it!

I have loads of sets of standard pistons and rods in good working order and I'm in Hull, you could come and inspect and pick the ones you want if you like?

The 70 doesn't have an oil pressure gauge but when I do the same journey in the advance, the oil pressure drops to 1 bar on idle hot in traffic, never goes lower than that. If you're worried about it, maybe you could lift the idle to raise the oil pressure a bit? I changed the ECU temp sensor, the fan and gauge work fine so I've not touched those. I had my hopes up that it was the ECU temp sensor at fault, because when I removed the old sensor the plug was wobbly. But it still does it. Another strange thing happened for the first time last night- the throttle seemed to be stuck open when cruising in 5th, I lifted off and it carried on pulling on. Now I have a spare TPS I'm going to try changing that, and maybe even the throttle body itself. I've sprayed it with GT85 etc. and its free and not sticking but maybe the TPS is in need of setting up with feeler gauges?

That's a good shout, thanks for the info, my intercooler pipe is a fag paper away from the rad, I have a load of heat reflective tape so I will try that, Thanks again!

Hey everyone, I've been struggling along with this issue for a few weeks now but thought I'd see if anyone on here has any gems of knowledge or pointers, you guys are usually awesome at helping so here goes... My forged 4EFTE EP70 has been running great since being built, love it to bits, but when it gets hot in traffic (as in the fan kicks in) it bogs down and won't accelerate. AFR's are non existent so there's no fuel for some reason. Drives and boosts great otherwise, just when sat in traffic and it's hot. I usually just pull over and let it cool down then it's fine. Pain in the arse though seeing as hull is a carpark at rush hour! I've swapped the ECU temp sensor- no change Checked all vac lines etc. and no obvious problems (only does it when in traffic and hot, no other idling or starting issues) Coolant system is bled up etc. and behaves as it should- fan kicks in and it doesn't overheat. I think it has to be a sensor relaying something funky to the ECU which is then not fuelling for some reason. Any help or pointers to check appreciated!!! Charlotte