daniel_g

They suit some cars better than others, there was a white V a while back with a mad fuckin kit that had them which really worked well. Liking that Livesports lip, you gonna do the rest of the kit ?

Are the discs slightly larger in diameter than the old ones ? I had this ages ago putting GT discs on my 85 and had to get GT caliper carriers.

When im finished the 85 i'll get started on my N/a GT project again

I actually quite like the Carat lights, used to have a starlet Carat but never got round to doing anything with it haha.

The carbon canister isnt connected to the fuel rail. I do see the other hose in pic 2 and yeah it goes from the rail to the tank, you need that lol.

In the 2nd pic the vac pipe at the bottom of the carbon canister connects to that black box, which all gets chucked in the bin. And the pipe on top you make into a breather or whatever And yeah lol, will look 10x better when sprayed up.

About 80-100 quid at best. If theyve got sumps, oil filter housings and thermo housings etc then potentially a bit more.

Can get a PS4 with a game cheaper haha.

The nipple on the inlet runner 1 goes to the FPR. The carbon canister and the little box just pull out and theres a 10mm for the box. The vac line that connects to it that goes under the car to the fuel tank, just connect a vac line to that and let it vent to atmosphere or you can put a 1 way valve in it. You will be left with two spare vac nipples ontop of the throttle body now, those can be blocked off.

A couple of the German guys have cracked 100bhp and both use FPRs. Doubt it makes a difference but if you have a wideband and can tweak the fuel pressure to get your AFRs bang on then theres nothing wrong with that.

This is the one ive put in my N/a GT, its an OEM Gen3 4EFE rail & FPR from a very late spec JDM N/a. Doubt it will make any difference though lol. Its different from the earlier ones, its got two diaphragms instead of one so guessing its a higher pressure ? Comparing to the Gen2 rail & FPR

Naturally aspirated. Ie. no forced induction such as a turbo or supercharger

Congrats haha. Ive done it aswell but didnt strip the engine because it was enraged at the time. Rod 3 i think was dangling out the sump

Yeah Dastek arent cheap. Id ask them if they kept a note of if they messed about the timing when they mapped it, just for peace of mind. But bet they'll want it back in lol. Id say it should be fine at the standard setting though..

Well 10 is what its set to standard, and the ECU will pull the timing back if the knock sensor starts detecting det, so i'd say it should be sound. But in the ideal world (where remaps are free lol) a wee tweak to the map should be done after fitting a different engine anyway. It will have slightly different compression and wear etc. Hows the motor running now anyway man ? Sorted those issues with it ?

10° BTDC is what it should be, if its mapped it might have been advanced or retarded slightly but youre not gonna know really know.

Not harsh at all, i always ask the buyer to sort a courier, the amount of times ive been bumped out of money by couriers is unreal. But if sellers are happy to sort couriers thats fine aswell lol.

Fuckin hate all couriers, ive had issues with almost every one there is !!

Thats the brake compensator valve, best to leave that in place.

Ive none of starlet boxes but Taggys guide should give you a good idea. http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/59358-a-guide-to-fit-an-aftermarket-quaife-lsd/

You dont need to totally strip it down to inspect it. The state of the oil and the amount of shite on the magnet will tell you a lot. Once the 5th assy is off the main cover will come off and you can pull out the gears, diff etc. I do a fair few gearboxes in work and they can look a bit daunting the first few times. Last one i did was a 4wd 6 speed Hyundai box, they are all more or less the same you get the idea.

Suppose its got a lot to do with driving style aswell. But yeah thats fair impressive

Put up a wanted thread i bet theres a few knocking about. Although an EMB would be ideal to make the most out of those ITBs

The rev limit on them is a bit higher, like 7K+ iirc. Plug one of them into a starlet with a few mods and you should see around 100bhp in theory.

Cool build man, its good to see people still messing about with N/a starlets Power wise you'll probably see 100bhp or close to it with some sort of management like an EMB. Or you could try hunt down a JDM 100ps Gen1 ECU.