James's 96 Glanza V

[JamesG]

On 1/15/2021 at 8:52 AM, Sam44 said:

really enjoying your build, great work. the ct9 b you have there are a rare item. well worth keeping in great condition. 

Thanks Sam

Made a start putting it back together and got some more pictures

[JamesG]

So Ive finished getting my turbo all back together and installed on the car. I also recieved my RW developments catch tank and an10 lines. Very pleased with them, really well made bit of kit.

I bought a 19mm breather filter for the port on the bottom on the tank.

I then had to go about getting the an10 fittings welded to the top of the rocker cover. I didnt want to risk getting any swarf trapped in the baffle plate drilling the breather port out, so opted to just have the fittings welded ontop of the existing holes on the cover. The hole inside the an10 fitting is the same size as the breather hole with the tube pulled out so couldnt see much gain in drilling it out anyway.

Got the fittings TIG welded on by a local welder and there is no contamination inside the holes. I gave the inside of the rocker cover a quick clean before reinstalling.

Once it was back on I trial fitted the catch tank and lines, they look really tidy and suit the bay nicely .

Also purchased a new racetech CT9 braided oil feed to replace the stock one. I have been after one for a while, looking forward to getting it installed.

Edited February 6, 2021 by JamesG

[JamesG]

Ive been looking to replace the standard steering wheel on my glanza for a while now. It has seen better days, the leather on the wheel has worn away and it is in overall poor condition. I originally wanted to put a facelift glanza wheel on but found out they are incompatible with different air bag and horn connections. So I opted for a HKB boss kit and a personal 330mm leather steering wheel.

Got it fitted this week, Feels a lot better to use and drive with over the original. I did encounter one problem though, the 96 wheel uses a metal ring electrical contact on the back for the horn. Not sure how I can make the horn work with the new wheel, any other 96 spec owners encountered this problem?

Fitted my racetech braided oil feed, was a little fiddly to install but I think Ive routed it correctly.

Also got some better pictures of how the engine bay is looking. Wont be too long now untill I can get it back on the road.

 

Edited March 6, 2021 by JamesG

[RoyalDutchie]

Great progress as always.  The 3 spoke steering wheel does look way beter and more modern.

 

Did you turn the rad cap to the very end? By the looks of it we have the same rads and when I had it positioned like that it did look great but didn't completely seal the system and it never build pressure inside the system and just leaked a wee bit(I would imagine it is even worse on hot days). Could squeeze out coolant by just squeezing the coolant pipe on top. Just a small note and imo a thing to check to make sure it seals well.

[Sam44]

Waw what a transformation. Real nice well put together project. 

[Claymore]

13 hours ago, JamesG said:

Ive been looking to replace the standard steering wheel on my glanza for a while now. It has seen better days, the leather on the wheel has worn away and it is in overall poor condition. I originally wanted to put a facelift glanza wheel on but found out they are incompatible with different air bag and horn connections. So I opted for a HKB boss kit and a personal 330mm leather steering wheel.

Got it fitted this week, Feels a lot better to use and drive with over the original. I did encounter one problem though, the 96 wheel uses a metal ring electrical contact on the back for the horn. Not sure how I can make the horn work with the new wheel, any other 96 spec owners encountered this problem?

Fitted my racetech braided oil feed, was a little fiddly to install but I think Ive routed it correctly.

Also got some better pictures of how the engine bay is looking. Wont be too long now until I can get it back on the road.

I had a Momo boss on my previous car and from memory it had a horn ring already in it. Maybe there is an accessory from HKB?

That's the same oil feed / return I've ordered too! Would have preferred if the oil filter end was a 90 degree fitting to stop the hose from needing to bend but if it works it works. Or if the hose was longer it could be looped round anticlockwise and across.

[JamesG]

13 hours ago, RoyalDutchie said:

Great progress as always.  The 3 spoke steering wheel does look way beter and more modern.

 

Did you turn the rad cap to the very end? By the looks of it we have the same rads and when I had it positioned like that it did look great but didn't completely seal the system and it never build pressure inside the system and just leaked a wee bit(I would imagine it is even worse on hot days). Could squeeze out coolant by just squeezing the coolant pipe on top. Just a small note and imo a thing to check to make sure it seals well.

Thanks mate,

Yeah the rad cap is twisted on fully, its just a replacement cap I bought as the one that came with my rad didnt look great and was turning rusty. Probably just sits in a different position on mine.

3 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Waw what a transformation. Real nice well put together project. 

Thanks Sam

1 hour ago, Claymore said:

I had a Momo boss on my previous car and from memory it had a horn ring already in it. Maybe there is an accessory from HKB?

That's the same oil feed / return I've ordered too! Would have preferred if the oil filter end was a 90 degree fitting to stop the hose from needing to bend but if it works it works. Or if the hose was longer it could be looped round anticlockwise and across.

Yeah Ive been looking into the boss kit, it looks like I've bought a boss kit for a 98 spec by mistake. It's not very clear but there are two different hkb boss kits, the OT48 for the prefacelift and the OT202 for the face-lift. Oh well, you live and learn.

I know what you mean about the oil feed. I thought the same but like you say if it works it works, a lot of people seem to have used them in the past on here without issues.

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by JamesG

[JamesG]

Got the car out for the summer recently, seeing as the weather has started to improve and most of the salt has gone away. I swapped out the boss kit for a 96spec one and now the horn works as it should. I also did an oil and filter change and put a fresh tank of fuel in after sitting over winter.

The car drives really well after the turbo refresh and other improvements. Porting the wastegate seems to have helped the boost creep and it dosent creep up to fuel cut levels as easily as it did before. Allthough I have only taken it to around 5.5K rpm, set to 0.6 bar.

Had to put a pair of new control arms on my daily yaris to get it through the mot this year so it was out of action for a little while. Fair to say they were past their best and a bit of a battle to change. Anyway got it sorted and through for another year.

I took the glanza on a short drive up to my mates house this morning, When I got there I opened the bonnet to find coolant had sprayed all over the bay. Turned out one of the heater matrix hoses at the back had developed a small hole in it and had fired coolant everywhere.

Not what you want but i got it all cleaned up and am thinking about replacing all the old hoses with a full silicone hose kit. They all look quite worn out and feel soft and perished. Might even take the intake manifold off for better access and to give it a good clean along with the back of the engine. Just means the car is out of action for now, so a bit dissapointed.

Hoping to get the car to Japfest later in the year all being well. Should be a good trip, hopefully see a few of you chaps there .

 

Edited April 25, 2021 by JamesG

[Pikey009]

Nice build thread mate. The rocker and can set up is well worth it isn’t it 

[JamesG]

18 hours ago, Pikey009 said:

Nice build thread mate. The rocker and can set up is well worth it isn’t it 

Thanks bud yeah definitely. Really pleased with it, fits the bay so nicely.

 

[JamesG]

This arrived from Mike at tuning developments this week, a full silicone engine hose kit with jubilee clamps. Looking forward to getting them installed.

Edited May 4, 2021 by JamesG

[JamesG]

Been working on getting all of my coolant hoses swapped over the past few days. I decided it would be easier if I removed the intake manifold for access, so off it came. I took some pictures and made a mental note of where everthing was connected to save getting confused when putting it back together. It was a good opportunity to give it a clean up aswell as the back of the engine.

Next I went about changing all the coolant hoses at the back, the original heater matrix hoses had turned soft and were worn out. I also changed both vacuum lines connecting the intake manifold to the steering rack as one was torn.

With that done and everything cleaned up, I changed the throttle body gasket and put the intake manifold back on with a new toyota gasket. Then it was just a case of connecting everything back up.

I then reinstalled the rad and fitted the new silicone radiator hoses, I had to cut the top hose down a little to suit the civic radiator. Fitting the 28mm hoses over the 32mm civic rad outlets can be a little tricky so i put them in hot water for a minuite or 2 before squeezing them over.

I finished putting the rest of the engine bay back together today, filled the radiator with coolant and bled the system. Pleased with the end result and glad to have the car back up and running.

Edited May 1, 2021 by JamesG

[Pikey009]

Really good work mate. 

[Sam44]

Having a good catch up with everyone's build. 

I highly recommend replacing all the hoses and especially the crap Toyota spring hose clips. 

When I changed mine alot of the hoses had started to rot (age related) this in turn affects to clips. 

Nice work. Very smart bay. 

[JamesG]

20 hours ago, Pikey009 said:

Really good work mate. 

Thanks bud.

4 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Having a good catch up with everyone's build. 

I highly recommend replacing all the hoses and especially the crap Toyota spring hose clips. 

When I changed mine alot of the hoses had started to rot (age related) this in turn affects to clips. 

Nice work. Very smart bay. 

Thanks Sam. Yeah im not keen on the toyota spring clips either, much prefer the jubilee style hose clamps. A lot easier to work with .

[JamesG]

Made a few small upgrades to the car this weekend, Fitted some poly exhaust mounts and front anti roll bar d bushes. Really straightforward to install and both a nice improvement.

Had some really nice weather aswell, perfect for taking the car out and testing it .

Edited May 31, 2021 by JamesG

[Timmah]

Are those roll bar bushes for the factory sized roll bar? Haven't been able to source anything locally for the stock one.

[JamesG]

.

Edited June 1, 2021 by JamesG

[JamesG]

34 minutes ago, Timmah said:

Are those roll bar bushes for the factory sized roll bar? Haven't been able to source anything locally for the stock one.

Yes mate there for the standard bar. They are 20mm internal diameter if that helps you .

 

[Timmah]

21 minutes ago, JamesG said:

Yes mate there for the standard bar. They are 20mm internal diameter if that helps you .

 

Perfect! I've noted your part number so I can order a set when it's pay day. My bushes look 20years old.

[Sam44]

i just did the same. getting these. lovely work. coming along nice. 

[JamesG]

Polybushed the rear beam on my glanza today. I was able to do them with the axle still on the car by leaving the shocks attached and carefully lowering the front of the beam down on the jack untill the bushes were accessible.

I removed the centre of the original bush by drilling and cutting it out. Then it was just a case of cutting out the rest of the remaining rubber bush. This took a while but eventually got it back to smooth metal. I gave both sides a quick coat of paint while I had the opportunity.

Once the paint had dried I installed the new poly bushes with plenty of grease and got the axle bolted back into the car. Job done, Havent had chance to test them out properly yet but should make a good difference.

[JamesG]

I bought an anti lift kit and new poly front wishbone bushes for the car recently. Had some time off work this week, so decided to get them fitted. Started by disassembling the front suspension and removing the wishbones from the car.

With the wishbones removed from the car I pressed out the front bushings fairly easily. I then had to cut off the rear bush and metal sleeve in order to fit the anti lift kit. I did this by grinding the sleeve back carefully untill it was almost through and then hitting it off the arm.

I then gave the wishbones a good clean up, buffed the surface rust off and gave them a few coats of paint to freshen them up. While they were drying I got the new track rod ends and ball joints installed.

Once the wishbones had fully dried I fitted the new polybushes and got them installed back on the car. Before fully tightening the anti lift kit bolts I got my mate to pull the back of the arm as far out as possible while I tightened the bolts to give maximum castor.

Really pleased with the end result, front suspension feels great now. Just need to get it for a proper allignment at some point, but it does drive fairly straight for the time being.

 

 

Edited June 18, 2021 by JamesG

[Sam44]

i did the same recently and went from superpro bushings to powerflex. it was a mistake the superpro bushings are better, stiffer, less suspension deflection. i guess the reason for the powerflex bushings being so soft is to help ride noise/comfort.

Edited June 20, 2021 by Sam44

[JamesG]

2 hours ago, Sam44 said:

i did the same recently and went from superpro bushings to powerflex. it was a mistake the superpro bushings are better, stiffer, less suspension deflection. i guess the reason for the powerflex bushings being so soft is to help ride noise/comfort.

Yeah think your right sam, the front wishbone bush is superpro and the anti lift kit is powerflex. I think powerflex do two different hardness options for every bush though depending on how stiff/soft you want the ride to be.