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4efe SWAP to 4efte in Corolla E11 1998


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See if you can get an original glanza v or GT turbo top mount seal some of the lads on here might be able to help here, alot have gone fmic. If you don't seal the top mount the incoming air will just spill past around the edges causing higher and higher inlet charge temps this is very bad for that new engine. Also make sure all the fins are straight in the top mount. This top mount intercooler is quite in efficient as is. Definitely not for running any higher boost pressure than standard on. You need to make it as efficient as possible if you are running it. 

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On 8/29/2021 at 7:03 PM, Sam44 said:

Hi! Just saw your answers. Connection was bad in Sardinia. Remember you suggested a IC with a pipes kit last year? Those are the ones I already bought. In order to fit the front IC I have to cut the chassis and put a U bar to set the IC. I first want to make sure the engine runs well with all the vacuums and stuff. I am right now need to make The upper intercooler efficient. I still didn’t find the plastic top. I asked the guys who sold me the engine and they don’t have it either. Then I will have to add aluminum in plates around the hole in the hood and make a rain collector that can get the water out of the way from the injectors. Anyone can show me an example?

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On 8/26/2021 at 6:54 PM, Sam44 said:

are you going to use a front mounted intercooler?. if not and you are using the standard top mount please make sure you use a sealed vent/bonnet scoop. when i say sealed i mean it needs to seal ontop of the top mount intercooler edges. this is a must do. 

So far we cut a bonnet and put a grill bit the seller didn’t send me the plastic IC cover. How do you suggest to seal it? Yes, the plan is to put a front mount IC, but the one you suggested me to buy last year is too high and it won’t fit. I don’t want to cut the front chassis to fit it so I need a different front mount IC solution. I will have to sell the one I bought. In the mean time I need to seal the top mount IC.

 

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Hi guys.

i swapped the engine and there are issues to fix. Communication between dasboard and ECU/sensors like RPS signal, alternator doesn’charge, engine check light on. The car doesn’t start at first ignition. It need several cycles before it starts running. The problem happens only when you leave that car off for 24 hours. Any help?
 

@Jay @Claymore @Sam44

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I've just seen these now.

I will update this with some answers. 

Sorry if the intercooler did not fit. It's always best to measure any spaces you are thinking of using for the intercooler and get one to fit. 

To save money you can go to the breakers yard and get some great (large/small) front mount cores to fit in any space as well as piping. 

 

 

Edited by Sam44
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3 hours ago, Sam44 said:

I've just seen these now.

I will update this with some answers. 

Sorry if the intercooler did not fit. It's always best to measure any spaces you are thinking of using for the intercooler and get one to fit. 

To save money you can go to the breakers yard and get some great (large/small) front mount cores to fit in any space as well as piping. 

 

 

I wish I could do that my friend but it doesn’t work like that in Italy. breaker yards do not have anything useful  do I have to find everything on the Internet  please help me find these answers for the questions I wrote in the last posts  

 

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I have a problem when starting the car. Only the first time it doesn’t start right away. It must be the fuel pressure low that drops because the canister is missing I need a solution.

C9C190B0-AEA8-41E2-B0F8-EA7884D93159.thumb.jpeg.9908049c72b06b7cdc5f04322b866729.jpeg

The Corolla doesn’t have a vacuum pump as the Starlet so I need to know if it creates an issue. I terminated the cacuum that goes to the steering pump on the Corolla as the Starlet pump doesn’t have the RPM vacuum integrated. I was told it is not gonna create any issue.

34020626-FB43-4DF9-B9B0-9293BF57BE8C.thumb.jpeg.0dd97753668beed488a47d3c9a1b50a2.jpeg

About the canister  I left the vacuum pipe that connects to the canister blank  I think it is creating the tank return pressure issue  What should I do?

The factory BOV has the small vacuum plastic pipe exit broken and need a replacement. Which solution should ai go for? Blow Pop Off? Which one? Which filter am I gonna connect to the gas pipe that goes in the engine cover?

D6BA5841-F293-4D6B-BEF1-CE212CD928AF.jpeg.6b38ad41435731736713a1f01b5fc608.jpeg
 

The alternator doesn’t charge. I swapped it but arill nothing. It’s definitely an electric issue and the ECU is not telling him to charge. What should ai do?

Thanks

@Jay @Claymore @RoyalDutchie @Sam44

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On 9/10/2021 at 3:30 PM, Frankieflowers said:

Which pop-off should I buy to replace the original How should ai install it and which filter should I buy to add it to the gas pipe that runs in the head? Thanks

@Jay @Claymore@Sam44

Hey Frankie, The filter for the cam cover pipe needs to be a "12mm crank case breather filter" there are lots on eBay. You need to remove the factory BOV, blank off the hole in the EFI pipe and fit a new BOV to the rubber hose on the turbo hot pipe (the one that goes from the turbo to the intercooler). Please post a picture of your BOV showing the broken piece.

The not starting after a 24hr rest does sound like fuel pressure problem. It could be many things causing it.

Any Glanza owners out there know if the fuel pump is supposed to prime at key ignition on, engine off? Or only starts to pump with key in cranking position? Could also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.

Is the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator connected? 

Also why have you removed the charcoal canister setup?

EDIT: Have you tried loosening / removing the fuel filler cap and then starting the car after 24hrs rest? Maybe there is a vacuum created in the tank overnight as the fuel cools? Be very careful when playing with Fuel!

Edited by Claymore
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has the problem just started since the canister was removed. 

talk me threw what you did with the pipes to the canister. 

the canister should not affect fuel pressure. 

the only way it can is if the fuel tank breather pipe (77261 in the diagram) is blocked. you will know if this is happening because you will get a sucking sound when you open the fuel tank filler cap. or you have a leak in your intake manifold. say for instance one of the pipes in the intake manifold that is now not used is open to atmosphere. 

im running both the paseo and starlet with the reduced intake piping ( reducing turbulanc, fuel tank vacuum), and charcoal canister removed. 

what is the idling rpm when it does fire up?. 

 

Edited by Sam44
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Happy to hear from you @Claymore and @Sam44.

I’m going to list the issues i am working on.

charcoal on makes the tank blow internal pressure when installed. If disentailed it doesn’t it goes away. There are two metal pipes that come out of the lower left side of the engine bay firewall. One goes to the engine and the other to the Corolla top charcaol where the small pipe gors to the 4efte solenoid. Correct? Why is the fuel pressure dropping overnight? It didn’t happen before I swapped to the engines.

The small DOV pipe that goes to the inlet is broken  i keep glueing it but it brakes  So I was think to replace it with blow off valve that would be connected as the original only without the pipe that goes to the engine cover. This pipe would need a filter. Can you help me choose blow off valve, good pipes and filter? 
 

I ran diagnostics and I got 22 and 42. Considering that the 4efte came from an automatic car, I had to bridge the automatic  gear function connector (as a video described). The enfine check light is on and I would like to solve the twho issues and turn that check light off. Can you help?

The RPM in the dashboard jumps. My brother said that it is probably caused by the different communication between the dashboard instrument and the ECU.  He said that the only solution would be to put a filter that translates one signal to the other in order  any idea?

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

Happy to hear from you @Claymore and @Sam44.

I’m going to list the issues i am working on.

charcoal on makes the tank blow internal pressure when installed. If disentailed it doesn’t it goes away. There are two metal pipes that come out of the lower left side of the engine bay firewall. One goes to the engine and the other to the Corolla top charcaol where the small pipe gors to the 4efte solenoid. Correct? Why is the fuel pressure dropping overnight? It didn’t happen before I swapped to the engines.

The small DOV pipe that goes to the inlet is broken  i keep glueing it but it brakes  So I was think to replace it with blow off valve that would be connected as the original only without the pipe that goes to the engine cover. This pipe would need a filter. Can you help me choose blow off valve, good pipes and filter? 
 

I ran diagnostics and I got 22 and 42. Considering that the 4efte came from an automatic car, I had to bridge the automatic  gear function connector (as a video described). The enfine check light is on and I would like to solve the twho issues and turn that check light off. Can you help?

The RPM in the dashboard jumps. My brother said that it is probably caused by the different communication between the dashboard instrument and the ECU.  He said that the only solution would be to put a filter that translates one signal to the other in order  any idea?

 

 

 

I've found some info on the charcoal canister for you from the Haynes workshop manual:

1078541921_Screenshot2021-09-15073838.thumb.jpg.763e854259ffc3ba21fe7a615f88f0ce.jpg

432271774_Screenshot2021-09-15073954.jpg.69bf2019ac688d9d229ba3db953df441.jpg

182022003_Screenshot2021-09-15074032.jpg.ecc4bbc2168f592379f46a9fcc56a1eb.jpg

560373653_Screenshot2021-09-15074231.jpg.39553b63a6aab21eb39d3c162f9bec27.jpg

Also from the Toyota Corolla owners manual:

1351627444_Screenshot2021-09-15074904.jpg.2ee3a3bdb6ff807928d6c0ff205e6f76.jpg1648964028_Screenshot2021-09-15075008.jpg.93fb514d6374c268c92b27d09cdb8ea9.jpg

The first diagram shows what happens with tank under vacuum / pressure and with engine running and at different engine temps etc. The Toyota corolla owners manual describes a similar scenario.

Looks like with the tank under vacuum air is led into the tank through the fuel filler cap check valve and no.3 canister check valve to prevent issues. With the tank under pressure the vapours are forced into the charcoal canister then led to the engine to be burned. (swoosh noise when opening the cap = small amount of pressure in tank / blow).

You can sometimes hear the vapours going into the can after a drive, open bonnet and listen for buzzing, sounded like an electrical short the first time I heard it!

The only way to get in tank vacuum with the charcoal canister removed is if the check valve in the fuel cap is faulty and the vent pipe to the canister is blocked off (bad idea).

So then its the question of fitting a check valve in the vent line (away from the engine bay) that allows vapours in and out but also prevents fuel spill.

Fuel pressure will drop overnight, some cars prime the fuel pump at key in ignition position to supply fuel to the rail / regulator and get to the required pressure before cranking. Some don't. The fuel pump should have a one way valve built in also to reduce drain back.

If all you changed was the engine and canister I doubt the canister removal caused the problem as you said it is blow and not vacuum.

Could be the fuel pressure regulator or pump not priming. I did ask if any glanza owners new if the pump was supposed to prime but no answer.

Also what is the voltage at the fuel pump when trying to start the engine the first time? Is it low voltage that then increases?

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4 hours ago, Claymore said:

Could be the fuel pressure regulator or pump not priming. I did ask if any glanza owners new if the pump was supposed to prime but no answer.

Also what is the voltage at the fuel pump when trying to start the engine the first time? Is it low voltage that then increases?

First of all thank you for the detailed explanation. Out of all you said there are two factors I have to check. The first one is the exhaust pipe from the tank to the canister. The one that could be blocked. I doubt it is because I smell fuel when I take it out from the canister. So that pipe comes from a metal split. One pipe goes to the engine and the other one to the canister. The other input on the top of the canister should be the vacuum connection that I connected to the starlet engine. What I would like to know if I connected the canister correctly. I think I did because it’s the same system for both car. Although the Corolla doesn’t have the vacuum system that the turbo engine has. We have to figure this out.

regarding the voltage at ignition on the fuel pump I still haven’t checked. All I can say is that before cranking on ignition position I hear the fuel pump activate and it does activates after a few seconds when the engine doesn’t turn on. This is why I don’t understand how come I smell fuel and I hear the pump but the engine doesn’t start at least after the fourth try. 

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2 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

First of all thank you for the detailed explanation. Out of all you said there are two factors I have to check. The first one is the exhaust pipe from the tank to the canister. The one that could be blocked. I doubt it is because I smell fuel when I take it out from the canister. So that pipe comes from a metal split. 1* One pipe goes to the engine and the other one to the canister. The other input on the top of the canister should be the vacuum connection that I connected to the starlet engine. What I would like to know if I connected the canister correctly. I think I did because it’s the same system for both car. Although the Corolla doesn’t have the vacuum system that the turbo engine has. We have to figure this out.

regarding the voltage at ignition on the fuel pump I still haven’t checked. All I can say is that before cranking on ignition position I hear the fuel pump activate and it does activates after a few seconds when the engine doesn’t turn on. This is why I don’t understand how come I smell fuel and I hear the pump but the engine doesn’t start at least after the fourth try. 

1* can you photograph this pipe connection at the pipe and at the engine please. See highlighted text.

As far as I know there should be a vent pipe from the tank to the canister to transfer the fuel vapours. Then a pipe from the canister to the TVV valve (blue plastic valve on thermo housing on 4efe starlet):

20210312_103005.thumb.jpg.6079a1afec84e3506a6144e6a20cbb36.jpg

Did your corolla 4efe have the same TVV valve or was it an electronic solenoid?

A pipe goes from the TVV valve to the throttle body / intake to draw the fuel vapours out of the canister when the engine is above 53 deg C.

There is also a vent pipe on the bottom of the cannister to draw in and expel clean air, so the canister has 3 pipes on it.

So the fuel pump primes at ignition on, please check the pump wire voltage at the tank plug on priming to see if it is low. Also check pump wire voltage at tank plug on starting to see if the voltage drops when you try to start the engine.

If the fuel pressure regulator is bad then you will need to fit a fuel pressure gauge to see if the system builds fuel pressure. They are usually pretty reliable though.

How well does the engine run when it finally starts? 

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On 9/15/2021 at 6:29 PM, Claymore said:

Did your corolla 4efe have the same TVV valve or was it an electronic solenoid?

Not as the one you showed. I guess it was electronics. The Corolla was more advanced compared to the Starlet. It also had electronica ignition. Anyway I believe that there is no block on the fuel chain from the tank to the canoster. Call though I remember hearing the pressure coming out of the tank when I was opening it. I read that it happens when the canister Hass to be replaced. I will send you pictures as soon as possible but I understood that the system is the same for both cars. The turbo engine has the solenoid pipe that goes in the small input on top of the canister. The other one goes to the gold metal split from the tank. The other pipe from it goes to the inlet as you described. I have to check the voltage at ignition. My friend who is taking care of the electric swap did go through difficulties as he is a new school mechanic. He doesn’t have much experience with 90s cars. I had to help them with the logic of it to go step-by-step and most of the functions are good. The car runs perfectly went on and there is no problem with the fuel pump. I did purchase a WalBro but I will put on before I change the intercooler and prepare for mapping the ECU. but this will only happen when everything works fine. The engine comes from an automatic Starlet so I I’m struggling to get the 42 error off and finally see the engine check light off. Can you help me with this? I will send pictures and the feedback with the voltage test of the fuel pump on ignition mode before cranking. 

 

I did go through all the steps to check why the fuel goes back to the tank and it doesn’t start the engine properly when the car is sitting there for a few hours  The fuel rail return is connected properly. The two pipes from the tank are connected properly and I smell gasoline from the one that goes into the canister  The fuel pump works properly because when the engine runs it has no issue  The fuel filter of his new. I haven’t changed the fuel pump yet and it’s fuel filter but I don’t think that is the issue  I did notice though that when I go completely zero with your commission key and crank it starts the engine earlier than when I only go one click and restart the ffuel pump  maybe it’s an impression but I don’t know  

i’m also trying to figure out how to translate the coil signal that goes to the Starlet RPM and adapted to the modern communication system that the Corolla uses I read that there is a circuit that uses a low pass filter to adapt the signal but I am not sure the wavelength is the same  can you help with this?

352FDF35-A9E5-4BEC-920D-7BF9619675F1.jpeg
 

 

E2E5532C-38DD-4F60-91FF-34055930F1A2.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Frankieflowers
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Question. Which spark plugs are the correct ones for the 4efte ep91? I bought the ones that I found on the parts website which have one dent. The sticker on the engine says that correct ones have 3 denta for a omnidirectional spark. 
 

i am also figuring out what this connector is for.

 

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Happy to hear from you @Claymore and @Sam44.

I’m going to list the issues i am working on.

charcoal on makes the tank blow internal pressure when installed. If disentailed it doesn’t it goes away. There are two metal pipes that come out of the lower left side of the engine bay firewall. One goes to the engine and the other to the Corolla top charcaol where the small pipe gors to the 4efte solenoid. Correct? Why is the fuel pressure dropping overnight? It didn’t happen before I swapped to the engines.

The small DOV pipe that goes to the inlet is broken  i keep glueing it but it brakes  So I was think to replace it with blow off valve that would be connected as the original only without the pipe that goes to the engine cover. This pipe would need a filter. Can you help me choose blow off valve, good pipes and filter? 
 

I ran diagnostics and I got 22 and 42. Considering that the 4efte came from an automatic car, I had to bridge the automatic  gear function connector (as a video described). The enfine check light is on and I would like to solve the twho issues and turn that check light off. Can you help?

The RPM in the dashboard jumps. My brother said that it is probably caused by the different communication between the dashboard instrument and the ECU.  He said that the only solution would be to put a filter that translates one signal to the other in order  any idea?

 

 

 

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4EFE with electronic ignition (with a 4EFTE (automatic tranny from a Starlet Glanza V) in a 1998 Corolla E11 bug eye I am tryimg to make the RPM tachometer work. The FTE ECU doesn’t have RPM signal because it’s a different system that works with the coil ignition.

is this really what I need to make the RPM tachometer work?
 

https://kauppa.soe.fi/en/products/autosport-coil-pack-tach-adapter?_pos=1&_sid=a18100481&_ss=r&variant=39377859018795

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