4efe SWAP to 4efte in Corolla E11 1998

[Sam44]

how are you doing frankie. 

i cant see the canister or lack of one causing a problem. i run with out one creating a vacuum/negative pressure in the fuel tank pulls the fuel back into the tank. this puts your fuel pump under increased load. 

make sure any engine vacuum lines coming out of the engine are blocked off and the fuel tank vent line in open/has a vent valve like i suggested.  

i have just fixed a very similar problem on a ep91 glanza v by installing a new kemso fuel pump. 

the issue we had: there was a delay to start up, the vehicle would crank/engine turn over several times before starting. the issue was the original fuel pump was past its best.  

the kemso pumps and a good adjustable fuel pressure regulator work well together a nice improvement on factory. 

of course always try a test this with a fuel pressure gauge and watch start up fuel system priming time. the kemso literally primes the fuel lines in a second.  

Edited September 22, 2021 by Sam44

[Frankieflowers]

On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

i cant see the canister or lack of one causing a problem. i run with out one creating a vacuum/negative pressure in the fuel tank pulls the fuel back into the tank. this puts your fuel pump under increased load. 

My friend. I think I found the reason why this happens. The 4efe fuel pump runs lower pressure compared to the Glanza. I bought the fuel pump that you suggested months ago. The Wallbro 255. My mechanic will install it on Wednesday and we will see if I will solve the problem. The other point of discussion was the fuel rail inlet valve that could be damaged and doesn’t close properly when the engine is off. So I went to search for a new one but I cannot find it. My mechanic said that there is a trick where you push in the rear side that compresses the spring. But we would try this trick only after changing the fuel pump. What do you think about this?

[Frankieflowers]

On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

make sure any engine vacuum lines coming out of the engine are blocked off and the fuel tank vent line in open/has a vent valve like i suggested.  

I exactly did what you told me already a month ago putting motorbike fuel tank vacuum valve on the fuel tank metal exhaust. It didn’t change so I bet is another reason that causes the problem. 

[Frankieflowers]

On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

test this with a fuel pressure gauge

This is exactly what I will tell the mechanic to do on Wednesday after installing the new fuel pump you suggested me to buy. Thanks!

The other issue I’m dealing with is the RPM signal. I read all I could about it and because the two engines have different ignition systems, the Corolla has direct wire from the ECU. The FTE doesn’t because of its coil ignition. So they are talking about RPM booster signal circuits that are basically low pass filters on the coil output to be reduced to lower voltage between five and 12. I still would like to try something without it. Maybe you have an idea?

[Frankieflowers]

The two issues are the RPM jumping and the check engine light on. I might be able to solve the RPM issue by changing a resistor in the cluster. I ran diagnostics and it gave me 22 and 42. The Corolla is a 2998 electronic ignition. The Starlet is a 1997 coil ignition. Can you help?

[Frankieflowers]

The engine revs go up very well in every gear. Today I found out that it cuts ignition at 190 km/h. I don’t know why it happened. I just changed the fuel pump with a Walbro GSS 342 255 LPH.. Any idea why the engine suddenly cut power?

[Sam44]

Yeh the JDM have a strict kph limit. I think you will find this to be the problem. With the kph limit cutting the fuel or speed cut as it's known. The blitz and jam and other jap plug and play ECUs will over rule/cancel it out. These normally go for around £250. 

I will check your fault codes now. And yeh the rpm will possibly be as simple as a resistor swap. 

How does she feel. Congratulations a fantastic build in record time. 

Get some pictures up please. 

Edited October 6, 2021 by Sam44

[Frankieflowers]

On 10/6/2021 at 7:22 PM, Sam44 said:

Get some pictures up please. 

Hey there!

she feels great! I still have to finish the wiring for the AC. Figuring out why it doesn’t start in the morning. Error 22 and 42 have to be fixed. Check engine light on. I have to test fuel pressure because an ignitor might be leaking. At low rev it does blue smoke until I deive. Just a liTtle. Might be the turbo leaking a bit of oil. Must send it to refurbish. I hope it’s not a valve leaking because of old retainers.

It starts perfectly when the engine is warm. When it’s cold it need 6/8 temps to get the fuel back in. The engine. Could be the water temp sensor that has issues. Maybe the wires aren’t sending signal to the ECU.

 

I took plenty of pictures that I want to post when all is done to show the full procedure. 

Edited October 8, 2021 by Frankieflowers

[Sam44]

Yeh 22 is coolant temp, this could be the reason behind the poor cold start. 

42 I think is something to do with the auto ecu/missing the auto gearbox there could be a speed sensor in there somewhere, other than this it could be a feed back from the clocks. 

Looks fantastic. Congratulations and in super quick time for a full conversation. With AC. Very impressed. 

A quick note make sure all the engine earth's are in and have a good back to battery earth wire/connections. There is the cylinder block/head to earth, the sensor earthing bank found at the rear of the inlet manifold (brown multiple wire to 1x ring contact. The engine bay earth's near the engine bay fuse box behind the left light (white wires to a ring contact). The 4efte ignition ignitor needs to earthed to the bulk head or to its own earthing wire. The ECU earthing wires are found under the dash mounting to the chassis. 

There is a great amount of improvement to be gained on the standard 4efte factory setup. Without uping boost pressure. Something for the future to consider. 

How are all the local lads liking the convertion. I bet it's a 1 off build over there.

The blue smoke. Does it only start when the engine/exhaust is up to temperature. If so it's the turbo. If it's there on cold start it could be that the valve stem seals have gone hard with age. Also it could be sticking piston rings or an issue with the 1 way crank case to inlet manifold check valve allowing oil threw. 

Edited October 9, 2021 by Sam44

[Frankieflowers]

On 10/6/2021 at 7:22 PM, Sam44 said:

Get some pictures up please. 

the car smokes blue. Yes...We have to figure oit if it’s a valve retainer leak or id it’s the turbo leaking. I would like to know the OEM parts I should replace in the valve kit. 

[Frankieflowers]

On 10/9/2021 at 2:25 PM, Sam44 said:

The blue smoke. Does it only start when the engine/exhaust is up to temperature. If so it's the turbo. If it's there on cold start it could be that the valve stem seals have gone hard with age. Also it could be sticking piston rings or an issue with the 1 way crank case to inlet manifold check valve allowing oil threw. 

The blue smoke comes out when running low RPM after a little bit but I noticed bad changing 2nd to 3rd gear while I was racing another car behind me I saw the blue smoke. We’re going to take the downpipe off to see if there is oil and check the spark plugs to see if they are dark. I hope it’s nota matter of piston rings. I did put some additive in the engine oil to clean up the valve and soft in the rubber rings. I hope it’s the turbo that needs assistance rather than the valves. 
 

everyone is watching the car and loving the sound. My shop made an amazing exhaust. I am going to post everything as soon as I can get the air conditioning running and the engine starting cold. I have to figure out error 42. The guy who swapped gearboxes on I automatic Starlet 4EFE did bridge the automatic control connector and everything worked fine without check engine lights but it’s not my case. I am not 100% sure about what my electric guy did Saul my brother is not able to help me. 

[Frankieflowers]

Here is the connector to be briged to avoid the ECU looking for the N and D signal from the gearbox  

what is this connector for?

 

 

Here the temp signal sensor Diagnostics gave me error 22  I will change the sensor tomorro and check if the wire signal is interrupt  Should be the cause of false cold start  

 

 

Please help me understand ehat this connector is for.

 

 

 

 

[Frankieflowers]

On 9/22/2021 at 5:35 PM, Sam44 said:

i have just fixed a very similar problem on a ep91 glanza v by installing a new kemso fuel pump

I installed the Wallbro 255 you suggested me last year. Anyway it didn’t fix the problem. The problem must be mechanic. Probably an injector leaking. I pulled out the fuel rail return in the morning before turning on the car and there was no fuel. The fuel doesn’t stay in pressure and goes back to the tank. It’s a mechanical issue. I will figure out when I will test the fuel pressure and I will get the injectors to be inspected. 

[Sam44]

Interesting let us know how you get on. Did you fix error code 22.

[Frankieflowers]

4 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Interesting let us know how you get on. Did you fix error code 22.

Unfortunately not. I changed the water temp signal sensor and checked the wires between ghe ECU and the sensor. Everything works perfectly. I really don’t know what to do now.

[Sam44]

Check the voltage to the sensor. With the sensor disconnected. 1 wire will be the 5v feed the other the sensing wire from the sensor to the ems. I've got a feeling this is the reason for the cold start problem. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Sam44

[Sam44]

I remember reading some where on a old (one of the first) auto to manual convertion build thread that there was a problem with 1 of the engine sensors not having a 5v feed from the ECU once the auto box is removed. I was certain it was the throttle body this might be the 42 code you have. Check that the throttle for a 5v supply also. 

Edited October 12, 2021 by Sam44

[Frankieflowers]

On 10/12/2021 at 8:19 PM, Sam44 said:

I remember reading some where on a old (one of the first) auto to manual convertion build thread that there was a problem with 1 of the engine sensors not having a 5v feed from the ECU once the auto box is removed. I was certain it was the throttle body this might be the 42 code you have. Check that the throttle for a 5v supply also. 

I finally solved the problems!as. As I felt, my friend who worked on the electric part got confused and took a signal from the yellow and green wire that comes from the two pin temperature sensor. He did it because he thought that he was dealing with the three pin sensor that was on the 4EFE Electric ignition new generation engine on the Corolla. He still did something wrong because Toyota is clear that certain sensors need to be connected straight without any impedance addition. He didn’t notice the sensor underneath that is dedicated to the cluster water temp. So when he took the bridge off and left the wire alone by himself to connect straight from the sensor to the ECU, everything went back to normal. This means that the engine never ran normally and it was in recovery mode. This is why the spark plugs were dry but the engine was running blue smoke. It doesn’t do it anymore even if it obviously could be the turbo or the valve gaskets. I know it also could be some sticky piston gaskets. But it runs better and I am happy about it. The engine check light disappeared and it was a great news because it means that error 22 and 42 are not there anymore. It’s a big achievement considering the amount of work during this swap. No check engine light whatsoever and the engine finally starts in the morning.

today I went to see the tuner and he told me about the ECU classic. He explained that it would be perfect because the engine has a wire  for the Excelerator. He asked me to find the original Toyota 4efte ECU female connectors in order to make the ECU swap easier. Is there any company that replicates those connectors?

[Claymore]

5 hours ago, Frankieflowers said:

I finally solved the problems!as. As I felt, my friend who worked on the electric part got confused and took a signal from the yellow and green wire that comes from the two pin temperature sensor. He did it because he thought that he was dealing with the three pin sensor that was on the 4EFE Electric ignition new generation engine on the Corolla. He still did something wrong because Toyota is clear that certain sensors need to be connected straight without any impedance addition. He didn’t notice the sensor underneath that is dedicated to the cluster water temp. So when he took the bridge off and left the wire alone by himself to connect straight from the sensor to the ECU, everything went back to normal. This means that the engine never ran normally and it was in recovery mode. This is why the spark plugs were dry but the engine was running blue smoke. It doesn’t do it anymore even if it obviously could be the turbo or the valve gaskets. I know it also could be some sticky piston gaskets. But it runs better and I am happy about it. The engine check light disappeared and it was a great news because it means that error 22 and 42 are not there anymore. It’s a big achievement considering the amount of work during this swap. No check engine light whatsoever and the engine finally starts in the morning.

today I went to see the tuner and he told me about the ECU classic. He explained that it would be perfect because the engine has a wire  for the Excelerator. He asked me to find the original Toyota 4efte ECU female connectors in order to make the ECU swap easier. Is there any company that replicates those connectors?

Great progress Frankie 

The 4efte ECU female connector and the male plugs are made by a company called TE automotive / AMP.

From my research it should be a 54 pin Multilock connector. Part number: 175448

When I made a patch harness for my piggyback install on a 4efe (different plugs/socket to 4efte ECU) Royal dutchie and RobSR told me about them. I bought mine from RS components.

Unfortunately the 54 pin Glanza female ECU socket was only sold in batches of 10 and RS has discontinued them. 😡 

RobSR at RaceCal Ltd. had some available last time I spoke with him. He might be able to sell you just the one socket.

 

[RoyalDutchie]

You are able to buy them from china. Bought a set of 2 a while ago for 8 euro's ea(bit more expensive now due too tax).

If you search 175448-6 on aliexpress you'll find them.

[Sam44]

Great progress. Such a good build. Good to here the engine is healthy. That ct9b is the turbo to have on a stock 4efte. A big improvement on the ct9a. 

[Sam44]

What are you doing with the old engine ecu harness and engine. 

[Frankieflowers]

On 11/7/2021 at 10:35 AM, Claymore said:

Part number: 175448

Thanks! I ordered the 175448-6. It seems to be the same. 

[Frankieflowers]

23 hours ago, Sam44 said:

What are you doing with the old engine ecu harness and engine. 

I will keep everything until I upgrade the engine. We had to use most of the original harness. 

[Frankieflowers]

23 hours ago, Sam44 said:

Such a good build

I will build a thread with all the steps I followed since we started talking in 2020. I collected all the pictures ever since I got the engine and most of the work and research is already on my thread. But the direct experience of this swap is what makes it precious. I didn’t find a fool schedule with secrets and tips anywhere on the net.