Jump to content

project Impulse Purchase (threehundred's Glanza V)


Recommended Posts

Like said in text mate I CANT believe it!!



wow and yes 1 year gone so quick its crazy how time has went this fast! anyways yes I spent alot of £££ on this build as you can see as you have all my receipts lol...


for it to have problems 1 year in is errmmmmm pretty shit tbh....



glad you have got it sorted thow nice to see its getting the tlc it needs!!!



"Just finished off a Toyota Glanza today that came in as a non runner with none or little compression across the board. removing the head showed an inlet valve stuck wide open , this was caused by damage to the follower sleeve inflicted by a valve spring compressor, the rest of the missing compression was caused by lack of valve clearances [engine only done minimal mileage since its build] the worrying thing we found was 2 valve shims adjusted to fit with an angle grinder!! to cut a long storey short with lots of tlc and care , the engine is back together and runs like a watch..dyno tomorrow..""



THIS SCARES ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites
here is the report I got back from Quest Motorsport today, have a read...


"Received car in a non running condition. On trying to start the car it was very apparent that there was a compression problem.


1. carry out compression test , found pressure of 45 , 0 , 60 , 150 psi respectively from cylinder 1 on wards.


2. carry out cylinder leakdown test to determine if the problem was head or block related , cylinder leakage was 75 , 100 , 70 , 20% respectively from cylinder 1.


3. remove cylinder head , first observation head torque was no where near the 60 ft lbs specified by ARP. Once head was off it was also noted that some of the head bolt washers where in correctly fitted.

The no 5 inlet valve was stuck wide open causing the zero psi compression reading on cylinder2, the valve closed when tapped with the handle of a screw driver and did not appear to be bent.


4. all valves removed and checked for damage non where bent or damaged , but the cam follower on the no5 inlet valve on cylinder2 would not come out freely and once removed it could be seen that the bore the cam follower travels in was damaged causing the valve to stick in a certain position, the damage could have been caused by a valve spring compressor. The damaged bore was cleaned up and checked that the follower moved freely in all positions with out sticking.


5. all valves lapped in with minimal effort and vacuum checked for leakage on the bench , the head was re assembled with new valve guide seals and up rated valve springs, valve clearances were then checked , it was found all inlet valves had minimal clearance of less than .002" , all exhaust valves except 1 were below bottom limit clearance.

All valves re shimmed to give top limit clearance.


6. cylinder head re installed with new gasket after a leakage test was carried out on the pistons half way down bores, this confirmed there was no by pass, head bolts re torqued to the correct 60 lbs ft in 3 stages , then repeat sequence before cam cover was replaced.New cam belt kit installed .


7. Remove exhaust manifold as it had been blowing badly , this was refaced , also the poor quality of the manifold was addressed and all internal welds from the waste gate port and collector were dressed to removed break through and all restrictions,refit manifold. Prime oil circuits to turbo and internals ready for starting. start engine and run up to temperature, electric fan working ok . Road test car and check for any oil and water leaks. Dyno check car for boost control and AFR's, AFR's were acceptable across the rev range. it was not safe to carry out continuous dyno runs due to the poor lower gear box mount causing excessive engine movement.


Engine cold start and general running now very good , vehicle returned to customer."
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Anyone know of a good auto electrician in Essex area? A few electrical gremlins have surfaced recently...



1) No rear lights. Brake lights and indicators seem to be ok but nothing else (including fog and reverse)


2) Dash has stopped lighting up.


3) No side lights, only main and full beam are working.



Perfect timing for the winter nights :(

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

check ya fuses should b a 20 amp fuse in the fuse bay in the drivers side of the dash below the steering wheel

would say come up to colchester as i auto electrictin

also had my starlet 6 years and used to help at tmd when they was running

Thanks fella, might take you up on that. still havent got it sorted but to be honest I havent looked at it again since last time.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

She been good to you whilst you've had it? I read you had a few problems but is that all sorted now.

yeah very good, apart from the blip mentioned above! all got sorted though.

Finally had enough then ? as above did the problems ever get sorted ?

James

I need something bigger and more practical. yeah everything was sorted by Quest Motorsport last September, it's been fault free since!

U selling or breaking buddy ???

Might b intrested in some

Bits also I willing to help you out with the above problems of u don't sell or break

strictly selling as a whole car fella, no time to break or be left with a rolling shell that nobody wants!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...