Calum122

Nice! Glad to see you sourced an original drivers seat! Lo

Very smart!

The thing is, these engines are 30 years old. So buy a 4EFTE is no safer than boosting a 4EFE. At the end of the day it's all in the tune. My Mazda MX5 has been turbo'd for 10 years and daily driven and has never skipped a beat. Stock everything engine wise. Uprated Injectors and Piggyback ECU is all that I have on it. Again, driveshafts snap because of torque not necessarily horsepower. So using software to control torque limit is a great way to get around this problem. I found in my GT that the wheels just lit up most of the time in the lower gears, so limiting torque here until traction can be made isn't limiting the speed of the car. I think paying £1000 for a 30 year old 4EFTE engine of unknown condition, potentially needing to rebuild/forge it anyway when you could have done this to your 4EFE engine. I totally get what you're saying about "Factory Turbo" engines, but if you feel that way buy a factory turbo car and be done with it. The fact of the matter is, you're willing to go modified so you have to deal with the headaches that that comes with. If you want the cheapest option, whilst still maintaining reliability, then I'd turbo your 4EFE engine, limit the power through the mapping at specific RPM/Conditions on a Piggyback ECU. You might find that 130PS is absolutely fine and is just enough power. Drive it like that, and to make that jump to a 4EFTE engine in the future, or reinforce your 4EFE engine.

I don't understand why, for that money, you don't just forge the 4EFE lump? Like that's a lot of money to spend on engine/gearbox that might be goosed inside and need a rebuild. Plus the headache of wiring looms and the swap in general. The engines are not Honda Engines capable of 1000hp without serious modification. For 130-200 hp, why not just stick with what you have, uprating the components that you need to and delimiting the bottlenecks in strength of components in software. I would see the main issues, disregarding the piston/rods/clutch (as these can be uprated), will be gearbox and crank. Both of which can have an extended life if the ECU is programmed to limit torque in lower gears to prevent premature wear. Forging the engine and rebuild is going to cost you £2000. But that money is well spent as you can have a fully rebuilt motor ready to rock and roll. Without the faff of swapping engines.

You've not watched MightyCarMods before? They've been going like 10+ years and the most of their stuff is just jokes+laughs. I must admit, I was expecting the Sera to Chop the NX Coupe, was surprised at how much faster the Nissan was tbf. But then the fact the engine gave up the ghost at the end probably says all you need to know

Also stick with the drums. They are just better than discs 😂

I mean, they had that Stevo Evo Mk1 GT Around New Zealand a few years back. I know it was a little rough, but that would be worth some dollar to

How long does it take to go to the post office Literally go on the way to work, never takes me more than 10 minutes out of my day. I use ParcelForce and it's literally walk in, scan, drop in the corner of the room pick up receipt go. If there is no queue, which there isn't usually, you're talking 60 seconds.

I drove mine like a granny and it failed on me. Suspect that it wasn't built properly.

I was having a conversation about this a while back. It's not a deal breaker. I don't think the 4EFE block is any weaker. But you don't want to be paying FTE prices!

Wow, crazy.

Hhmm, can't say I've seen Glanzas for that low. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1996-Toyota-Glanza-V-Starlet-1-3-Turbo-Auto/143697101073?hash=item217503c111:g:kzEAAOSwH5tfQ22X That looks like a nice clean example. The only other one on the bay looks a bit rough. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-Glanza-V-GT-Turbo-Ep91-11-Months-MOT-Manual-Gearbox/184399796668?hash=item2aef1599bc:g:qgYAAOSwhuRfCwBU

Well spotted!

Very simple setup on the back. So there really is very little to go wrong. The rear arm is a "twisted" beam, if you're luck with a "Pan hard rod". Rear Anti-Rollbars are aftermarket. The rear arm is fixed in by two big bolts and bushes to the chassis. My starlet with 215000Km on the clocks were in pristine condition. Replaced anyway but there was no signs of wear. The arm is fixed onto shocks and the top mounts into the towerstruts. If not tightened, the rear arm will drop over bumps. So ensure the bolts are done up. Things like exhaust can knock on the rear arm or chassis of the car. So it could just be something simple like that. Then it's just a case of a dodgey rear wheel bearing. These are just taper roller bearings lightly placed into the hubs. So ensuring they're in good order and not over tightened. Can't think of much else that would cause knocking in the rear. As said they're pretty basic.

Yeah wow, interior looks super clean and smart. I like what you've done with that actually!