rwdrev

mine pulls violently sine i put the 5e and manual steering in. tryed a 2nd rack as the first must of been bent, and its horrible/ unsafe to drive. it knocks hard on lock when pulling out of junctions and snatches the steering, torque steers right on acceleration, and dives for the hedge on the left when lifting off. only thing im thinking on is the diff (trd lsd) is on its last legs

uj and joint on the end of the column is longer than a p/s setup. im going back to p/s so the missus can drive it

flog you the column and rack if you want to go manual steering? easy enough to swap

was the landy not good enough to make the pic?? lol. think i should make this 1. doubt il be mapped, but should still be running.

head off and take to engineering shop. get them to remove the stud and then get it helicoiled as the threads are fooked

got 2 5efe heads, a 4efe head and think i got a turbo head aswell but the dizzy drive lug on the cam is broke. it still worked fine tho

cheers mikey

ever since i rebuilt the 5e and had it in its had a very high idle. after some research today i seen about how to check if the wax stat is stuck, checked and adjusted idle..... HEY PRESTO!!!! now, how do i go about junking and blocking up all the pipe work? i read about the 2part chemical metal in the throttle body hole, but what about the pipe work? any pics to go along with a description would be appreciated Thanks

yes

etch prime it first, as it will flake off if you dont. etch is a ali and galv primer

ever since the 5e went in with non power steering (proper rack change) i get terrible torque steer when lifting off to change gear when cornering. its quite dangerous. Also at low speeds (say going round a roundabout) it bangs hard and snatches the wheel like i have square cv joints. seems worse on a left hander. i have had new outer cv's on it not that long ago. also running millers lsd oil in it. could this be a sign that my trd 1.5 diff needs rebuilt? never did the lift off/ swat you into the hedge jobby before, but did slightly knock when having some lock on and pulling from a junction.

i have never heard of any orc clutches in starlets being any bother. i am running 1 in my 5e and although not run in yet, know it will take the punishment. make sure you get the right thrust bearing for it though, some use standard and others use a specific thrust....and there not bloody cheap and only rhd japan do them.

with the age and how common engine failures, not likely, be very rare if it is original engine. lol

you need to remove the pump to see where the seal is, theres no way of finding out without removing it.

just joined this aswell

just a note here, i have run my 4e n/a turbo converted (seal on block) with a brand new 4efte oil pump (seal on pump) and had no issues. the seal in the block was rock hard so i left it intact and slapped this new pump on it. it was a quick fix engine, but it did work.

did you prime the oil pump with grease?

pull the efi plug in the fuse box and disconnect the coil lead then whurr over till oil light goes out. thats how i do it.

Wallace Performance at Aberdeen is closest for you, there isnt many folk up here at all that could tune them. next it Performance HQ at Dalgety Bay. your right out in the middle of no mans land by the looks of things. Ask _Shaun_ and see where he gets his mapped

its ok. lol

whats your method of bleeding?

good communication and parts are fine. trusted seller

lol. haha, should see how close they are to the caliper, lol. heres a pic for size comparison

compbrake pr7's and fiat coupe 20v turbo 305mm x 28mm discs, custom brackets and 11mm wheel spacer under a 16" wheel

alot of these are diy jobbies. made from thick plastic, sometimes ply. the adjusters can be bought from ebay or motorsport shops