rwdrev

how much for turbo?

pmsl

yes you will, because the columns dont fit each other. you need to change the column, rack and bulkhead plates if you are going from p/s to non-p/s. it dont matter if its ep82 or ep91, there both the same

460's? thought you had 550's?

i have a few flywheels kicking around if ya wanting 1?

yes^^

alot of people dont bother with the rebuilding sides of things these days tho, i put a rant up ages ago about window motors, was stuck with sitting. with some wd40 and some working the spindle was working sweet again. the motor was still wanting to work but the spindle had seized, so i saved myself £30 (what someone quoted for 1 posted) and kept the original part going. same as rear calipers, i seen the price if new 1's and nearly fell off my chair, so with some inspection and time, i managed to rebuild the calipers for the price of the seal kit and 2 pistons. in emergencys then sometimes you have to bite the bullet, but i would rather leave the part sitting under the sellers feet than buy an overpriced part

what a dick, you try and help some1 out and in return they rip you off. the place is full of ripping off scammers, and they are getting more common. if i sell summit i hardly ask for anything, if its spare or just lying there id rather take a small amount and let some1 have the use of it than rip them off and price it for what i would want to pay for it myself

http://www.customcages.co.uk/roll-cages/what-material

looks like some1 has seen the prices of cages and thought, poke that, i can make 1 for cheaper... i dont blame you you need seamless tube. thats all i know, any steel stockists will be able to fit you up with it, tho i should mention, that unless you order these bits pre cut, they will probably come in 6.5 or 7.5 m lengths. my brother needed 4 or 5 full length pieces to make 2 loops and braces for a landrover, so make sure you order enough. a quick google search should come up with the answer

for 4 grand it will buy a decent escort, and i know that if i could get 4k for my starlet, it wouldnt be long before another mk2 escort would be home, lol. i have noticed with the escorts tho, there is that many companies out there producing this stuff, that they are actually fighting for the better deal to get the trade (so actually pricing the stuff lower to get win the trade) but because they are a rare little car, (tho i dont seem it, theres loads of the things about) there isnt a great size of market out there, so they can price what they want, due to no1 else making the stuff.

i agree with this. there is loads of things that would be nice to have, but due to the prices of things, i either do without, or make my own stuff.

everything all fits, i have just fitted ep91 manual rack to my 82, it fits both cars, but you need all of the above.

yes, but you need the column and bulkhead plates aswell, as its all differnt, as i found out recently, lol

orite, get ya. none of that was touched when fitting engine/box/ rack, it everything is back to how i had it before but just manual steering rack. i will get it back into the garage and set it to 0, try it, then adjust if still not happy.

yes this can be done and has been done many times. im running a re drilled orc309 on my 5e, and they are designed for a 4e. i had an engineering company do this tho, just so its accurate.

no, but think il set it to neutral. alk?

it has been tracked. drove it alot last night, and didnt seem as bad, alot better since the steering wheel is now in line. it handles like a dream tho, drives like a gokart, just the tyres (t1r proxys) let it down on hard roundabouts. but through the fast twisty stuff its brilliant. its still very manly steering tho, think im gonna have to work on the guns, lol.

i have just got my car back on the road after the 5e build and i converted it to manual steering to junk the mess of the p/s pump. i have set this up the exact same as when i was running p/s, the only thing changed is the rack....and i dont like it!! when i lift off it swerves towards the hedge... and its bloody scary if not paying attension. but wondering now that i have lost the assistance of the steering i am now suffering from the ramp angles in my diff. my set up is, standard shocks tein 30mm dropped springs poly bushes poly antilift kit standard farb manual rack 1.5 trd diff (or so im told) 16" wheels 0.15 toe??? (think thats what he said, looked it up in the tracking book) and as much camber as the holes allow. powering is ok, its just when i lift off i head for the hedges

same crank rob h is running a turbod 4efe

remove the positive battery lead jack the car up, (drivers side front only and use stands) remove the plastic splash gaurds (if they have managed to stay on) slacken off/remove steering/air con belt remove alternator belt. remove top cover, put in gear and spin the wheel till the 4e mark on the cam wheel lines up with a dot on the head (look through the pin hole on the cam gear, then there is a corresponding dot on the head on the right hand side of the cam bolt) if no rattle gun, put in gear, some1 on the brakes and remove crank bolt plenty of wd40 and a puller ( if no puller, 2 small pry bars and be very careful, these can either fall off or be stuck like a b*stard) then remove bottom half of the cover, can be abit fiddly to remove, but is do-able by which time the belt is clearly visible, take a picture for fitting the new 1. (sometimes comes in very handy) just double check the slot on the bottom crank pulley lines up with a very small mark on the face of the oil pump. if all is correct then proceed, remove the small dished washer (take note of the way the washer is) jack under the sump and remove the engine mount take off the small spring with some needle nose pliers. get a 12mm socket and romove the tensioner from the block. the belt should come off. remove the idler. job half done, this next bit is fiddly. fit the top right idler get the belt and fit it to the engine so you can read the writing on the belt (how i was told) start at the crank, keeping it tight, round the idler, then upto the cam, keep this as tight as poss. then fit the idler and fit the bolt loosly so it dont fall off fit the spring again to take up the tension and then tightn the bolt. spin the engine over 2 revolutions buy hand to make sure the timing marks line up again.if not, adjust and check again. refit everything and hey presto thats how i do it, works spot on every time just noticed thats basically what cats post was.

think you only need from memory, a 19,12 and 10mm socket and mayb tipex. dead easy job. bit fiddly in the bay, but it dont take too long to do. idworkz stuff will be fine. plenty of threads for timing makrs, just use the search bar

burt, your the boy, lol. put the key in, turn to acc (first click) then the pin will push down, pul the barrel out by the key and hey presto!! if its still on the car, take the steering cowling off, follow the same procedure, but i used an allen key to push the pin as its tight to reach.

nice 1, il go try that later. i had to change the whole unit (lucky i had 1 spare) but wanting the barrel changed over now. il try it with the broken 1 first and let you know how i get on

went to the car this morning and pushed it out of the shed and the steering was fine, put the key in and the steering lock came on, so, i have now replaced the whole ignition switch, but now wondering how to get the barrel swapped over so i dont have 2 sets of keys to get in and start it. i see the pin to remove the barrel, but does this need to be tapped in? i tryed pressing it, but didnt move, but didnt try any further incase i f*cked it up. any help please?