rwdrev

you'd be lucky. lol. i hav a 4efe if thats any use? think callums got some kickn about

it might be, but not sure?!? also the knock sensor isnt plugged in yet.

my 5e build £175 for engine £750 for pistons rods and rings £90 for oil pump £140 for gasket set £156.10 for acl shells and crank seals (TD) £108.99 for head gasket (IDWorkz) £63.99 for timing belt kit (ebay) £110.40 ARP main stud and nut kit (TD) £135 for ARP head bolts (IDWorkz) £365 for machine work (re-bore, crank grind, reem little end pins, block deck, notch block and block clean) = £2094.48 thats a rough price of what i just had done this year, but thats just for the basics, supporting mods, oil, filters, injectors etc..... were on top. its not cheap, but well wor

think this has summit to do with the air con. i dont remember plugging this plug in anywhere.

just bought some headlights from Flintygt, come wrapped up to death and were as described, really good communications and a trusted seller dont hessitate to buy from him. Cheers

plenty of ptfe tape, and if it dont seal, DONT peel the old stuff off (a plumber told me this) , just whack more on, i used shitloads to get mine to seal

seen this aswell^^ i lol'd

have you double checked that you have the head timed correctly? 2 dots to 1 dot? not 1 dot to 1 dot. have a quick search and make sure the cams are lined up correctly. also, when removing cams did you put the service bolt in?

aww, im not down till the 10th,

i cant get me 5e down below 1000rpm, the air screw on the TB is basically in tight. idles at around 2200 when cold. checked everything and cant find any leaks, cable is slack, and the TB flap closes fully. its bloody annoying. when on cold start i can set off without using the go pedal.

i have found it very heavy going the manual rack conversion (using the proper manual rack) i am running 195 45 16 wheel and tyres, anti lift kit, poly bushed and as much neg camber the shock bolts will let me, and its heavy as hell for parking, i still havnt had it reset again after an alignment set up as i am wanting to see if i can make it any better.

nice 1, cheers.

top build lad. i am needing to replace the syncros on my box in the future, do you know if a press is needed to remove the gears?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380611766274?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT im wanting to get these. this any help?

it wasnt till afterwards i thought about the breather. owel, looks like its from sump or timing side. lesson learned. now...who has a decent catch can cheap? lol

havnt done a compression check yet, and not got afr gauge. thats me upt600 mile of running in, so now my turbo has gone poop, i might whack on a td05, get my 550's reconned and fitted and go for a map, at around a bar of boost.

just not long built a forged 5e for my gt. all has been running sweet until i fitted the rocker cover and catch can (with no breather) first i noticed a puff of bluey grey smoke and the smell of burnt oil, and thought, turbo seals, no real biggy. but after arriving at destination i noticed the sump and all the drivers arch has a healthy coat of running in oil. also the catch can was oily, but not checked to see if there was any oil in it. and all i can think the problem is, is there being not breather to the catch can to vent any build up of crank case pressure and it has either plwn

can anybody get them?

ok, cheers

how much for H brace posted?

why?? another 1 going to the grave yard in the sky....

im running a 4efe starter on my 5e in my gt

i drop the engine, box and shafts out in a oner. saves having to balance the box and also easyer to refit. i jack mine up at the front and put it on the highest settings of my halfrauds 2t stands, lower the engine and box with the crane, then slide out from under the wheel arch. Do it on my own this way, takes around 45mins to drop.

quads still available?

waste of my money, spent more time welding it than running it. i got a good second hand wepr for around the same price (td04 mani and decat) £195 posted (iirc) that was straight from sacha