rwdrev

oh, poops, forgot there not glass. no, dont use them then, lol. could try pannel wipe, and evo stick contact cleaner cleans evostick glue

petrol or paint thinners should remove it if its glue, contact cleaner (evo stick remover) if its silicone

spot on seller, great communication, helped out with the parts that i was after and very well priced. need more sellers like this

i also love dogs, but the gf is allergic to them, so we dont have 1. no 4 has a large dog, lucky if it barks twice in a day, neighbours are great, no 5 have a black lab, runs about, barks a little whilst out on nice sunny days, never to be heard at nights. but no 2 have a bichon freese, and whn it comes out for a crap, it just bloody yak yak yak, until it goes in, walk past the house, yak yak yak...doesnt help they are bretherin (churchy f*ckers) and the husband is a regular in ward 4 (looney bin) and the wife (death, never says hello, and looks like the walking dead) have 3 kids, that they sh

il take it for him. pm coming your way

have you got the column aswell? Pokerface might take this off ya

hmmmm, that inlet would look nice on the 5e....but wish i could afford it.

i am using the splined end of another column, swapped onto a small ended coupling, then make another end that needs to be a female joint to go onto the end of the column. il post a pic when i sort it all out, my first trial and error meant the splined bit was cut short, so now waiting on another column to come to canibalise again, lol

its all a load of bollox....thats all i am seeing on my fb.

yeah, i also found that out. i think i might have a solution, but also waiting on a reply to see if some1 has 1. it is doable without the column, but, you need another gt column or p/s column, knock about some uj's and use the spindle from the 2nd column attached to a small splined uj....blob of weld and its sorted, but hoping i get an oem manual column.

as above, but i need everything, column (with switches) rack rack brackets bulkhead plates and any bolts msg with what you got please. Thanks

rite, i got the rack fitted tonight but come up against a problem. the gt column is obviously shorter than the manual version.....wish i had known this before the car that i got the rack from got scrapped. i will be putting a wanted thread up, but can anyone help me get over this problem. i dont want to re fit the p/s rack and loop the pipes as it will be heavy as f*ck. cheers

hot rod style.... love it. you going for some hot rod style 10x 13's??

always spin the engine over by hand once fitted and make sure the lines line up again, if they dont, the timing needs adjusted again, took me a few attempts at the 5e to get it right, but for some reason i always got the 4e's bang on first time. make sure everthing is tight aswell, dont want the belt to fly off.

any part numbers for this yet?

summit like this? i have a box load of these, tho i think i have 1 thats broke out both top and middle ringland, infact i think it is this 1. cant remember,

i sometimes get it in mine on a hot day, its just static shocks

if you keep the boost low and drive it sensible then the life of it might be expanded, but be shure you can get compression checked before you buy.

there is this option, 4efe is a cheap alternative, but power will be down, and dont be tempted to turn it up. will get you out of a fix for next to nothing. saving money for a proper rebuild. i have found that 9 times out of 10, if your into the starlets, forging will be on the cards anyway. down time on rebuilding an engine is always crap unless you have the new engine to drop straight in. mine was off the road for over a year with all the messing about i had with dud engines and then the time and money for the first engine i rebuilt. in the last 3 years mine has been off the road for nea

if you dont have a budget to forge, then why waste time and money on an engine thats gonna go pop again? you might get lucky with a 2nd hand set of pistons and they last thousands of miles, or they mite only last 1000 miles. you need to be looking for an engine to drop in, NOT to be rebuilding 1. the last engine i built cost me nearly a grand bought, machined and fitted, with fluids and gaskets. waste of bloody time for it to last 540 odd miles..... not sure if it was the map or piston failure, but it went POP!!

another engine bites the dust, lol. i have just had machine work done to mine ( rebore, block deck, reground crank, drilled fly for 5e build, pistons and rods machined and oil filter housing drilled) for £365. but its the bits afterwards that cost money. getting 2nd hand pistons in my eyes are a waste of time, because they are getting old and wont be long before you are back to square 1. when you are going to the hassle of doing a rebuild, just go and get a set of forged pistons and rods, that way the engine (shouldnt) need touching again. the money i hav wasted on rebuilding stock e

are the crowns a differnt size and can these be used on my lsd i have already?

when you say play with bearings, i take it you use a miss match of bearings from both boxes? or are new bearing sizes needed?

what would the rebuilt for this need tool wise? pullers? press? any shimming up to do? also do you take the gears off the d4d and put onto the starlet box, or do you basically swap the internals (shafts and the whole shebang) from d4d into the starlet casing?

i think you need to step away from the engine side of things and let the pro's fix it