turbominicooper

what should the afr be on 1.5 with that setup?

got one of these in the post now colin. would this work the same for an unopened 5efhe accompanied with a 2.5" exhaust?

makes me feel good thats why it annoyed me; some uneductaed mong in a pussy blue imprezza felt the need to have a laugh. but yes shrug it off

nice so im nearly almost there. think ill have to blip the twat if i ever see him again!

so yuh as the title said i got laughed at in my starlet by some ponse in a baby blue imprezza. he was stationary in the oncoming traffic and id turned onto his road, as i did so i saw the smug mug pissing himself?? dont relly know whay he was laughing at but it was directed my way, i can only imagine he saw the GT and thought it was laughable, imo my cars looks are a lot slicker then his womanly blues. i wouldnt mind toasting him down some lanes or on a stretch so my question is what sort of mods/power would i need to turn his smile into a very depressed looking frown?

this was my thinking to, less restrictions = better flow = less heat congestion = better cooling = better turbo life/performance. theres only one way to tell I suppose - dyno the same car with one mani ported and de+ and the other ported but with the + intact. bit of a giveaway how much stress is on it given the amount of cracks found in the + on your average starlet

gggrrrr honestly thought the + was the restriction - what a noob. ill revisit the ports and see what its like after.

really, my stainless one has no restrictions i will get on it chief. cheers

so im making a budget JAM manifold and have been grinding out the middle. would people say this is enough or keep going until its totally flat?

thanks chaps!

got multimeter bridged between earth cable and earth on battery

sound so after unbridging all 8 of them eartn wires ive dropped the drain from -0.58 to -0.34 but ive literally tested every connector and cannot find this last bit. grrrrr

didnt realise i hadnt updated this thread for over 6 months so gonna hammer it in one post. so this is where i left you all: at the time i was working on a perfect decat screamer (no noise off boost, tons on boost) but i just couldnt get the seal and it sounded horrible so reverted to just a decat pipe which suited me better. i was also struggling with boost loss due to the weakness of the baileys DV spring so i managed to get an unbranded one of a mate who ran it on his evo and the performance was a lot better. originally when i registered my car the rear struts failed the test so i had to order some standard ones, obviously i wanted a full set of ohlins on so i sent them away for a rebuild and now they are back on the car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7anbIf4498 as we all know the winter is a testing time for all cars but specially classics. through the winter ive: - replaced a faulty starter motor - fixed a puncture of which i had to drive a mile on flat damaging my front suspension - my ct9 is now blowing smoke so i can only run it a 6psi - and also i breached the camshaft seal so that had to be re-sealed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMaZ9gAu1PQ heres how she was running before the turbo gave up the ghost: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0TrW_4uKcY managed to do some fault finding over the winter such as ecu faults, fixing the high revs and other random bits. ...but this is the best part of the winter so far - Toyota Sera 5EFHE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_KGCiHGnqw the plan: - 5e Engine out - Strip Sera ancillaries - swap thermostat housing - paint block - replace gaskets once ready 4e out and merge ancillaries with 5e before fitting in GT, hopefully by then my ct20/9 hybrid will be ready! exciting times

ive had a further look and wtf are all these earths for? they look like they bridge to each other??

As titled, I have a slow drain and can only see the clock and stereo attach to this fuse. any other parts get current from this? This is the 15a labelled 'dome' on the box

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251857574019

i managed to get a puncture one morning on the way to work and drove about a mile on a total flat. since changing the tyre i now feel a bounce on the front of the car when travelling at low speeds (upto 15mph). what am i most likely to have damaged? wanting to fit my ALK but no point till this is sorted. cheers.

offers

the fuse that supplies the clock inside is causing a battery drain. if i have the 15a fuse in within 24 hrs my battery is dead. what else is on that fuse that i can trace?

so i discovered i had a glow light the other day and upon investigation it would seem it does now work. using the wiki i have traced the wires form the 'toyota' box and all go to where they should. any ideas as to why it might not be working?

Colin, is this the intake sensor?

anyone got history with these? troubled area both point to ecu but also map sensor and air intake. http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showwiki.php?title=EFI+self-diagnosis+system where should i start with this?

ive driven it a bit this week with that in mind and all seems ok, that was y i put the gasket seal on it to stop it wriggling out. will check it today and adjust if needed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziSKvDqiC3Y thread can be closed now thanks

yes all sorted, i set it to 1000, it rises to 12-1300 but ill adjust it tomorrow. just got to learn clutch control on lift off now my cruise control has gone ;) engine bay will look even more tidier with those its gone thanks agin