Ollieh17

Was meant to do the hill climb at retrorides in this, but leaving things last minute i didn't have time to sort a clutch issue. It really was shit. The clutch is custom with two diaphragms to be able to handle the power i want. No one else has ran this type and it fouled badly on the gbox. Hopefully get the box back on and all sorted in time for my 15min session at forge action day this weekend. Picked up a set of 4 direzzas ready to stick on. Should handle and grip amazingly.

Logbook doesnt say wether its turbo or not anyway

Should do, all the lights should go on and go off

When you see it youll be able to tell

Spade connector slips over the little circle bit

May aswell get polybush ones

From what i remember the oil pressure wire is yellow

ID works will have them. Where i got mine from make sure to measure the anti roll bar thickness

Rebuilt standard callipers, braided lines, toyota 5.1 bleed numerous times, wms 110% disks, EBC greenstuff pads. Brakes always felt awful, i reckon ebc are shit

Could be a shot in the dark. ABS fault so someone has wired the abs light to go out with the oil pressure. This way on start up they come on and off to pass MOT. not sure how the oil pressure switch works, but if the light comes on when its grounded this may be why it goes off when removed from stat housing. Do you have a spade connector on the oil pressure sensor?

I doubt it make that much difference at all. HKS mushrooms are restrictive,wouldn't run one of them either

Well its not as journal bearings run very similar to crank and rod bearings. Guess garrett in all there wisdom must be completely wrong The journal bearing system in a turbo functions very similarly to the rod or crank bearings in an engine. These bearings require enough oil pressure to keep the components separated by a hydrodynamic film. If the oil pressure is too low, the metal components will come in contact causing premature wear and ultimately failure. If the oil pressure is too high, leakage may occur from the turbocharger seals. With that as background, an oil restrictor is generally

would you want to restrict flow to bottom end bearings?

Rather have too much pressure and a bit of oil past the seals than risking low oil pressure.

Do subaru even use one from standard? did loads of research on this when fitting a brand nee turbo. Its each to there own i suppose. Why not try it without a restrictor,if its smoking then fit one. An3 again is garrett JOURNAL BEARING advice....

Personally I wouldn't worry. I run a garret without one as per their own advice

Not necessarily true, a 3an line would provide restriction anyway

Check the tightness of the alt belt

Alot of fwd cars put 4wd drive to shame. More to handling tham grip

If a modern clios made from tin foil and fag packets id hate to see what a starlet is made of lol

This goes well be cool to see it cammed and on bodies. Clios do go well and handle awesome. Mate has a 172 cammed etc and is insane. But.... they are everywhere at track days

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=371127971928 http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=170686105086 And get some hose I also have a couple of banjo bolts kicking around, no need for them

An3 hose/adapter wont need a restrictor and probs work out a bit cheaper. Plus an fittings look 'cool'

An3 hose you shouldn't really need a restrictor

Advantage with an is you can make a decent line yourself( if you know what you are doing!) you'll need a m10x 1.25 i think it is to an4 adapter. Then an 4 90 or straight joiner and then the appropriate things the other end