morgey

No its a factory toyota LSD fitted to an AE111 levin/trueno Bzr. Trd ones are stamped on the underside i believe. However this should still fit and be a massive improvement over an open diff. But can be had much cheaper if you know where to look.

Front anti roll bar would be a lot easier with a pit. Wishbone bushes involve removing the wishbone but can be done on jacks But yeah get it jacked up and on stands for the rest

Have to agree with Paul also, don't get me wrong theres some reps that look better than the real ones. and i know some people cant afford it but imo, keep ya n/a how it is save the cash you'd spend on bodywork towards getting yourself a genuine example Plus everybody loves a sleeper ;)

First things first, your car is now 17 years old. Everything is old and worn most likely. If it was me i'd renew some parts On the front Ball joints Shocks and/or Top mounts Track rods Droplinks Anti roll bar bushes Wishbone bushes (can get an anti lift kit for the rears, well worth thr money) Whats the steering rack feel like, non PAS is quite direct so should feel fairly good One the fronts sorted get your tracking or alignment checked, in fact it might be worth having it done first. If you do get somewhere good to do it, local tyre places tend to botch them thru and dont seem to do a good job. The rear theres not that much Panard rod bushes Topmounts Axle mounting bushes (not usually a problem) If these parts are ok the first 3 things i would say feel for money would be. Set of springs, 30-40mm dont worry about looks stock shocks wont like mad low. Anti lift castor kit (front wishbone rear bush) more positive direct steering. Poly bushes for standard front Anti roll bar and drop links. These are the main things that i noticed gave me a better more predictable front end. Coilovers are too much for bumpy roads but my stock SR shock springs were lovely. Then if you haven't already some alloys with 195/50/15's and a good brand on tyre. Toyo tr1's uniroyal rainsport 2's or others depending on budget. After that a rear adjustable panard rod and rear anti roll bar. Panard stops the rear beam side to side movement and they are poly bushed which helps and ARB helps keep the rear flat and reduces roll. And mostly get your tracking done if you fiddle with shocks or steering items. Woo morning essay, hope that helps haha

This is mine, on the left. Remarkably similar...

Thats an OEM levin LSD ;) Ill sell you one for £20 less if you want

Saw it on facebook, was worth watching just for comedy value lol

Yeah it is I've been moaned at before on a forum when i first joined years ago as had an old non smart phone without a keyboard lol

Na boxes use different inner c.v's to turbos i think. So would need shafts and hubs as well

Naa my dad has a 940 se turbo, full leather electric heated seats/mirrors a/c sun roof, deep dish wheels cruise control. Had 135 5's up still pulling and had the rear step out at about 115! Pretty scary for the first time to have put a car sideways haha Turn the boost up with an exhuast n decat and will make about nearly 300hp ;) Orrrr wait n get a silvia

At a guess, inlet, exhaust manifolds and throttlebody. i doubt the injectors wouldnt make much if any difference as you could up the duty cycle on the ep ones to suit what extra the corolla runs. The only reason i could see them changing them would be if they kept the same map but wanted more fuel they could give it slightly larger injectors to compensate. Saving them time on getting a base map if they can calculate the extra flow the inlet and exhaust allow. Which might be a reason to fit corolla injectors along with there inlet and exhaust mani's Exhaust diameter might be different, and possibly cams might be different but doubt the latter.

5 door corolla tsport. Gotta keep that toyota blood in ya ;)

Buy a heap of crap volvo or bmw to get some rwd experience. 940 turbo drift in safety ;) haha

Bit of a blurry picture but looks like this

My mate was deciding between an ep3 and a clio 182 or 197. Basically said if the clio had the k20 and gearbox it would be amazing. They werent as stable at higher speeds but were realy active and responsive to driver input He ended up going for the ep3 because the engine and box were better and was easier to deal with day to day

Lol not going to do much but im guessing maybe as it was a project he wanted it running completly standard to rule out any issues then get a fmic once its all sorted? Thats what i'd do if i wasnt 100% clued up

Without mate. Much smoother lines without

Just pop on toyodiy and get the part numbers from there. If you give them the numbers then they cant get it wrong. Be aware gears are like £200+ from toyota though haha Oh and syncro's got revised so will be different to your originals ;)

Haha its not that bad

Scrappy or someone breaking there car. Just need another top bulb holder with a few inches of wire, they screw into the bottom the same as the top. Wire it up pop a bulb in the same as the top (something like 5w/55w) or with a higher wattage than the brake light so the fog light is nice and bright and hey presto Just make sure all the tail light wattages match or your'll have some brighter than others lol

Need to get a glanza left rear light as uk has the reverse light, you ditch that and have tail lights top and bottom and brake at the top

Should get a 4zzfe 94hp 1.4 vvti from the face lift bugeye

More like gen 2.5 really as the gen 3 had coil packs iirc

Its the early 90's import versions that are quicker. All uk ep91 engines are 75hp

Yeah non ps ep91 at a guess