RobSR

10's is abit rich, but shouldnt give you bore wash...

Take the FCD off and set the FPR at standard pressure. itll fuel fine at 0.5bar.

Only in Russia!

Yea alot of video guys use a similar setup.

Usually they are adjustable. They have a screw in the top you can wind in and out. Awesome gate tho..GLWS

Lol, its a figure of speech in the industry. You havent technically framed it as you cant really see what you doing, but yes obviously you've got your settings right first.

Hold camera above head...spray and pray?! Nice pics matey.

if people really are that bothered, someone just do a run on TD's dyno then take it to RT straight after and see what happens for godsake

Yup thats the one id go for.

^ I have no opinion on any traders but that did make me LOL

Like said prime it, dont just start it up! Oil wont come out the sump if you take the turbo oil return off, as its above the level. Wait till it drips out the bottom of the return and refit and start. I prime by removing the efi fuse aswell, as just removing the king lead still dumps fuel in.

Im guessing the 600+ one is spuddys old car. that was known..

AEM or Innovate IMO. AFR's vary throughout the rev range. Idle you want around 14.7:1, on boost you want around 11.8:1 and cruise you can go abit leaner for fuel economy around 15.0:1

Pretty old but i found the site i found ages ago - http://www.metal-monkey.co.uk/acatalog/Starlet.html

Good shout. their old stuff is however miles better!

^ He wants to keep the aircon

Just pull that all out..wont need any of that in a track car, then cut everything off the loom that goes to it

Choose your mapper and then go with what they say, not the other way round.

Should be able to have a look with the filter off, power steering pump might be in the way tho Get a pic and post it up if you can.

Not masses to report, as still trying to source parts to make some custom bits. Anyways, started stripping the bay down ready to take the engine out, and getting the engine loom prepared to splice in the GT parts needed. Managed to get more of the sound deadening out tonight also Look at the state of this bay hahahahaha.

A CT9B only has one extra fin on the turbine wheel. thats about it. most people seem to say it makes squat all difference when swapped over.

Probably the crack in the manifold especially if its bad...

Get something that is mappable. an emanage ultimate is a good start if you spec isnt too mental.

Use N/a everything, engine loom, fusebox etc. Chop the bits you need off the GT ENGINE LOOM and replace them with the bits that dont fit the fte engine on the n/a engine loom. Its basically Knock Sensor, Ignitor, Distributor, Coil, Sensors on the inlet/tb. Then use the diagrams ive linked so you put them to the right places, and swap a couple of the pins round on the ecu. The diagrams i posted is all you need.