MR-2

Have seen better days, have to think what to do with this. Car is with Estonian licenceplates, but taxed in Finland allready, needs registering mot. Have to clean and check propely first, then made moves. I do have one bolton 4E-FE engine for this if wanna drive fast :/ Maybe I take few parts to Starlet...

Should go for both uppermounts and shocks, not 100% sure but take a risk, so identical struts, I can compare at afternoon when getting home. Only spring tension and thikness can vary little bit...

Legendary big block 5E-FE, main reason to buy car. Former owner said that some bang sound came and power lost after that. Engine still worked, but klonking noise. Checked fault codes first and 24 code only, and found that plug was out after changed air filter. Then spark plug cheking and those were horrible condition, loaned from my Starlet and then starting. Better idle, but still same noise. Then located fault to one loosen intake valve, cylinder four. So engine must open or try to put new valve locking nails. I have few spare heads so no big deal, just hoping that bottom is ok.

Was looking for some Paseo parts today and noticed one annoucement. Rare car here in Finland, because never imported by Toyota, so every car is imported. Some engine failure was problem and I like challeges, so it was must to go see if can take some parts for my EP91 or EP70. Result was that one more in my family, had to buy because it was so cheap, i'm drowning cars :/

And this with newer rear shocks and old springs, front with VW coilovers, so ugly

Mine as standard with old suspention.

Nice P7 Your spings or shocks are not in good condition or You have allready lowering springs, most of P7 are tractors. I think 25-30mm lowering springs are most common, never seen bigger mm as new. Consider coilovers, can adjust much better riding height, but needs big moneys, lowering springs are estimated 100-200 euros. Oem 13" wheels are so small anyway, looks horrible, I have now ones in my car What offset are those Ronals and how wide?

Sometimes cheaper to buy full car Sand or sodablasting is easy for cleaning if available.

Are old one rusted or You don't have at all? Do Your own by welding, can do some ventilation system same time...

Rear is so light that I don't that will never drop 50-60mm compared to oem springs and schocks. Front maybe lower more than rear. Where have You found so much lowering spings?

I have LHD model, and radio antenna is also left side, don't know RHD model is it same side. But founded leaking point, antenna tube has water exit pipe and it was pointing/bended to inside, should go inside a-pilar and sill...

If it is cable, do it yourself, use bicycle universal parts, don't cost anything

Today only tooked teenager mirror tinting away from rear side glasses, bye bye, hated those. Next satin black doorframes and lightest tinting for all windows exept windscreen. Everyday have to do someting little for the car...

Here is my MR2 clear signals and foglights tinted with gray film, can compare to headlights little bit. After this light power is gone and police is too much intrested, and need good lights wintertime in Finland...

These are new ones, there are not so much inside area to paint, what a shame, one way is full gray vinyl tinting, but then won't macth with corners, don't wanna too dark look.

I'm some sort of pedant and after changing clear corner signal covers noticed color fail Should I paint corners outsides with some crome paint or paint headlamps gray. Have anybody pictures how it looks or some other compo? First idea was to paint all black, but headlight sealant is gray color, so it must be changed also after owen. Other problem is white car color and ot can seen trow glass anyway, so effect wouldn't be so good anyway. Have people wrapped headlights outside or painted maybe inside. And one idea was to paint those with gunmetallgray shade, sometimes black is so negative

First You find fuelcut without adding boost, only exhaust mod should do it. New ecu or fcd is anyway next step if adding boost over that.

One picture two times, cant edit my post, one more for boring all readers :/

Parked this Corolla in june this place. Yesterday tooked full loom away from my EE100 Corolla. Engine was taken earlier, normal 4E-FE. Have to clean every unnessesary looms away and only lefting what is needed for engine, so some nightmare is coming :/ Wanna put normal n/a first and then 5E turbo. Going to sell n/a set later or turboing it too.

Nice dad, everybody should have father like You, good job

Had to buy 1996 EP91 Starlet to build older one, nothing special haven't happend hole summer, just laying in parking slott :/

Once have done scoop swap to my 5E-FTE GT Corolla in 90's, still having this car. Later I went to front cooler and selled that hood away, it was from EP82 GT.

Scoop is taken from this Levin 4A-GZE Corolla hood, I have one full hood also, don't fit to any finnish model. Would be different than P8 or P9 turbo scoop. Maybe some oilcooler over engine or just for better engine room ventilation. I have all needed turbo parts to this car if going turboway after doing EP70 to 5E-FTE turbo first.

http://www.defa.com/en/automotive/warmup/products/engine_heaters/ Yes, 230V Defa engine and interior heater system, in Starlet case heats engine water on the block. Most of finnish cars have those system if 230V available. So freezing weather in wintertime, little luxury for driver and saves engine a lot. So cold that diesel cars won't start without extra heating systems, bensin Starlet do Former owner drilled stupidly plug near lamp, have to mount it better place near registerplate...

Should I weld little bit, full scoop is cutted from sc Corolla hood, basic hoods are cheap. Meaner look maybe, without intercooler, future shows later if going to turbo as well, but cooler should be in front...