shorty

haha stop feeling sorry for yourself! get it stripped down and have another rebuild! doesnt matter how long it takes, park her up and crack on! BUILT NOT BOUGHT!!!!!! im truley gutted i broke my v, lew mate, seriously dont do it you will be gutted. i lasted 1 and a bit months and then got another starbo! just get it home and crack on! I've got to convert the 85 to boost so looks like we are on a race again haha ill ee ya in it at jae, when we can have a catch up and luagh about when you blew it up at ricky's! Track ep FTMFW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

want a stiffer shell then buy a roll cage! zisco 6point rear strut/crossover/c-pillar kit and a cusco or simlar front top and lower strut braces job done. the floor brace does naff all, the c-pillar does very little too, but: why buy carbon shit when fibre glass is lighter? why spend money on body parts when it wont make the car faster? why buy a starlt when you can tune a saxo cheaper? all equaly good yet pointless arguements, people will buy what they like its there car, and at the end of the day if you dont like the price or to purchase things for your car that are purley asthetic then

I was running it on my v for a few weeks and it was a lil laggy, im just curious as to the sgorter ratio box and if it will make the turbo more livable day to day use, as the car isnt a daily but i like to drive it when ever i get a chance rather than a purpose built track/drag car ect, and the roads by me arnt big long fast straight its a bit of a mix of town and countryside roads.

What you running on yours now bean? Is it td04? Imm not sure if the vf24 will be to laggy but i defo want boost! I miss it, even though the na is quite nippy!

They are alot different to the way the fwd handels. I've got my old white dezent 15" alloys on now with yoko prada spec 2's so it grips awesome! Had em layin about when the sale fell through and they look quite good on there tbh. Need to get the 15" volk splitrims refurbed and them put them on though @mini valver: cheers dude, quite like the ep82/85 shape and yea should maybe run the vf24 before i decide, may not b as laggy with the shorter ratio's

Cheers for the coments guys, im thing ill prob chuck the forged lump in but may swap the vf24 for a td04 or td05 as the vf is a bit laggy tbh want response because the 4wd handles wicked just needs coil overs n more grunt.

bumping this up, we want pics!! haha ;)

as above is 100% a 96/97 spec, wrong interior, steering wheel, rearlights and front bumper for 98spec

i totaly disagree with that, i have many mates who are mechanics, some work for tuning specialists, I've also spent years tuning/modding cars and I've never ever heard anyone say its anything other than dangerous! why risk your life for a £60 or so set of lowering springs!

fucking dangerous!!!! should never be done!

its gone to a good home mind and i agree on the motorway they drink like fook! 75mph @ 4.5krpm! give or take, is nuts. luckily i have acsess to a spare fwd box so ill be pinching the 5th gear and poping it into mine just to make it drivale on motorways tbh

well still got a full forged engine, vf24 turbo kit, custom fmic kit, and civic alloy rad sat in turbogrant's workshop so maybe a 4wd 300+ sleeper or tbh quite tempted to ram a 4age blacktop in it haha

cheers dude will defo be interesting and bigman you can defo have a spin when shes a turbo'd beast

Well as most of you know i broke my cruise kitted v for parts. tbh i missed starlets the second mine was un-drivable! I couldnt get another ep9* shape as tbh (no offence to anyone) but imo no ep9* would look as good as mine did. So ep8* it was but an 82 gt just didnt excite me so i decided if i was changing shape i wanted to change transmition drive to so settled on an ep85. Started looking and got around 4-5 agents on the look but tbh 85's are a hard find compared to the 95 so when i put a funny coment on bigmans thread about how he should sell me his and i recived a pm well, lol few txt

A little knowlage is a dangerous thing! They dont nock, its called piston slap and yes they sound more like a desil on cold startup and are slightly noiser than a standard engine when warm but could just be a noisey engine lol, forged roads are thicker than thier standard equivalant, so have a look on the net for pics of oem s14 rods then whip the sump off and check, forged components can handle more power but wont themselves produce more, except bigger boar forged pistons as you are increasing the cc of the engine and more cc's more power.

is exactly whats in mine naz, id try the bigger one as it softer so would assume its the lower rated of the two dude

n/a tuning is the perfect starting base! i miss the days of my 1330cc mini, was an animal and hard to keep with upto around 80mph, the 0-60 was nuts and the tourque steer kept you on your toes. i agree with the other older lads in as far as tuning start with brakes and handaling, then find the power, but for a young lad/girl na starlets arnt a shy car and very nippy! but being another one of the over 10years of tuning cars id like to say you only learn by trying and all i had when i started was a 998cc mini and i ended up with a race tuned hectic mini, all still na! boost comes to thoese with

^^^ Exactly what i was going to say

discs are NOT the same, early mk1 gt has a 54mm centre bore on the disc and the later gt and glanza model has a 55mm center bore! just make sure they are not mk1 gt discs, having a larger centre bore than you need isnt an issue but aving one thats too small is as it wont go over the hub so the alloy wont sit right

looking bloody good dude package should be in the post tomoz for ya any more needed you know where i am dude. p.s had a thought the other day you may need to check the fuse box for the efi fuse got a feeling my mate needed it for his and we whipped it out before you guys bought it all off me! may have another around some where if it is missing get the bear to txt me xx

sales thread is in the breakers section bud "cruise kitted v" got the ecu spec on the last page, wiring guide is written down not digital as dastek wont release them but we marked it allup when we removed it from the loom i used milway in andover and there are a fair few others dotted about in the south, most are based further up though tbh. but again dastek mappers have to be approved by dastek, and after a very long disscusion with a few mapper i decided that dastek was the best plug and play for the money.

anyone charging more than around 200-300 for install and mapping mate is a criminal! these are average standard rates for mapping companys. i have a dastek for sale that i can supply wiring guide for so you can save the cost of install too, so you would only need a map wich should cost even less than the above guide prices. is a lot of dastek mappers in north england and scotland.

as I've already stated i dont know the lad and i hear mixed things but i think this should be left to the mods guys. just because some one has a lot of mates on a forum dosnt give them the right to have the ban lifted. there is more to this than just having a fan club fighting your corner. and i for one dont want to see the topic of this thread split the forum on to two sides. so think its best if this gets locked and we leave the mods to work it out guys!!

they DONT self learn as such, what they do is auto adjust within set paremiters, so if it can adjust between a-d and you optimum performance would be set at e then you are holding your car back, im willing to bet anyone with a plug and play and an rr readout will have a higher torque and and hp from a piggy back and higher still from standalone! the plug and play sells very much on the easy install and the so called self learning. as allready mentioned above they do tend to run rich witch affects timing advance. the standalone option is best left to the crazy spec lads purley as the expence te

appreciate the kind comments guys