shorty

looking bloody good dude package should be in the post tomoz for ya any more needed you know where i am dude. p.s had a thought the other day you may need to check the fuse box for the efi fuse got a feeling my mate needed it for his and we whipped it out before you guys bought it all off me! may have another around some where if it is missing get the bear to txt me xx

sales thread is in the breakers section bud "cruise kitted v" got the ecu spec on the last page, wiring guide is written down not digital as dastek wont release them but we marked it allup when we removed it from the loom i used milway in andover and there are a fair few others dotted about in the south, most are based further up though tbh. but again dastek mappers have to be approved by dastek, and after a very long disscusion with a few mapper i decided that dastek was the best plug and play for the money.

anyone charging more than around 200-300 for install and mapping mate is a criminal! these are average standard rates for mapping companys. i have a dastek for sale that i can supply wiring guide for so you can save the cost of install too, so you would only need a map wich should cost even less than the above guide prices. is a lot of dastek mappers in north england and scotland.

as I've already stated i dont know the lad and i hear mixed things but i think this should be left to the mods guys. just because some one has a lot of mates on a forum dosnt give them the right to have the ban lifted. there is more to this than just having a fan club fighting your corner. and i for one dont want to see the topic of this thread split the forum on to two sides. so think its best if this gets locked and we leave the mods to work it out guys!!

they DONT self learn as such, what they do is auto adjust within set paremiters, so if it can adjust between a-d and you optimum performance would be set at e then you are holding your car back, im willing to bet anyone with a plug and play and an rr readout will have a higher torque and and hp from a piggy back and higher still from standalone! the plug and play sells very much on the easy install and the so called self learning. as allready mentioned above they do tend to run rich witch affects timing advance. the standalone option is best left to the crazy spec lads purley as the expence tends to push it out of the sensible tuning mods. piggy gives far more tuning than the plug and play and almost as much capability as the standalone. imo the best option for everyone bar the big power cars. on a side note the price of 700+ is crazy i had a dastek supply fitted and mapped for a tad over 500, i did supply the additional boot/map sensor myself as i already had that. but the unichip is a fantastic plug and play and has every opton the emu does plus one or two more at a cheaper price. dastek mappers have to be approved to so atleast you know the mapper is of a decent standard too.

appreciate the kind comments guys

tbh i dont know the guy, he seems very helpful as far as driving to people/sending parts in there hour of need and seems he has a fair bit of experience of ep's that said I've seen a fair few threads to do with him and the hassle he has cuased people selling stuff. a permenant selling ban is fair enough till he wants to sell something! then it will be does anyone mind him selling just this once ect. no offence to chesh atal as like i say i dont know the lad, but surley banned is banned! would it be the same case if cal wanted to come back? no and why because he dosnt have many friends to try and sweet talk the club round for him. i dont think exceptions are fair as rules are rules. but tbh its down to mods and my opinion is rather errelivant in the great scheme of things.

As hes going away starting isnt an option, leave oil in, and disconect the battery all together so it doest just go flat. That will be all. And if its only a few weeks, leave the tyres on. Flat spots take a long time to form unless your tyres are not fully inflated to the sesibale psi.

All worng, theres a link over on tgtt for the translated manuals from a company in nz, who translate the jap manuals also i have a pdf of the 4e/5e workshop manual covering the varient engine models. Fire me a pm n when im at the lap top ill link you to the nz web site and email you the pdf if you want All wrong, theres a link over on tgtt for the translated manuals from a company in nz, who translate the jap manuals also i have a pdf of the 4e/5e workshop manual covering the varient engine models. Fire me a pm n when im at the lap top ill link you to the nz web site and email you the pdf if you want

This makes no sense atal tbh! Its not like a burgandy metro that u cud pinch from a local co-op! Its a larey one off drift car ffs, if some one was clever enough to pull it off and japseed actualy didnt notice there 100k+ custom scoob had gone then they sort of deserve it! Dont get me wrong, cocks for stealing it but equaly cocks for not noticing its being nicked!! Plus wtf do you do with it? Minute parts apear for sale police will be all over them! And how many jz rwd scooby you lnow of? So cant just respray it?? Its a pointless theft when you think about it! Tom

oi you, you should be studying!! haha, was good to meet you bud

very clean looking example mate

Truley truley devostated to see this!! Im realy sorry for you dave. I honestly hope they dont rite it off! If they do make sure to try and buy it back, price dependant as you will prob be able to salvage some bits and capitalise on what you can still sell off it.

oh no here we go *runs, hides and waits for the rows to start about what beats what*

sweet, should have my 85 in the next few weeks so ill let ya know how i get on boys gaz any ideas on lsd's? is something else im very interested in having done, but think i read in your build that your looking into them?

this is the spec of my 4e lew Fully rebuilt head Speedvision billet 265 cams Cruise valve springs 1.2mm Athena head gasket Arp head studs JE forged pistons 75.5mm (1386cc) Cunningham racing forged conrods Arp 2000 conecting bolts Light weight, knife-edged, nitempered and balanced crank Arp bottom end bolt kit power enterprise Kevlar timing belt TRD sports thermostat oil filter relocation kit TRD uprated magnetec oil filter Ngk iradium plugs Blitz 9mm ht leads HKS sqv bOV Skyline aftermarket FMIC with custom pipework Supra 370cc injectors Walbro 255ltr fuel pump WEPR Ram style manifold WEPR decat Turbosmart 38mm external wg IHI VF24 turbo custom oil/water lines Front exit exhaust ASI Racing alloy civic rad Roose Motorsport sillicone hoses and i still had alot of lag on a ballbearing turbo! you will seriously regret running this turbo, go check minivalvers graphs for his vf28 i cant remeber but i think thats an 18g housing and look and see where the power at what revs is, yours is an even bigger turbo than that! a td04 hybrid will see 300hp at around 1.4-1.5 bar id of thought on a well speced engine with the same response you are used too. no offence bd but you should realy listen to thoese who have been there otherwise you will only end up posting up a few months down the line about how laggy it is!

looks lush steve, you miss boost yet though? i do

^^^^ this man speaks sense!!! i dont think you guys are reading my posts properly you are just skimming through and looking at the hp estimates! it WILL make big power it WONT respond anything like a td04! even on a 5e it will be an utter lag monster!

steve can you pm me how much i need to pay in total for this and fest2 i completly forgot about both tbh! also as the V is now officialy gone can you confirm if im ok having a 4wd on the rollers instead if all goes according to plan.

the first peice of sensiable advice spoken in this thread tbh, lol its just a an unfortunate situation that it died after the exhuast whent on, its a brand new system so it wont be the exhuast. it wont cause back pressure issues as a 2.5" system is the most common size upgrade on the starlet. and it shouldnt be the heat wrap as thats on the outside of the exhuast not inside it so if smoke poured out from under the car then maybe but if its whit/blue its oil plain and simple. ct9's are on average 15+ years old and all get ragged to shit so unfortunatly they die!

Lol yea will be a shitload more powerful that said depends what boost you are gonna run bud. Td04 will see 270-280 allday long the td05-20g should see around 340+ id of thought but will be laggy then snap in with the power. Tbh if i wast chassing over 300 i wouldnt of bothered with the vf24 on mine as the lag is shit for a daily drive but mine isnt my daily so it doest bother me so much. If you just wanted more poke with out the lag then the td05-16g would of been better. Or a hybrid td04 from sacha (wepr) would of been the ultimate solution as it sees around 20-30hp more than the td04 at the same boost level.

Just been speaking to an engineer today about this very subject. Would every one be interested in uprated arb's or the 4paws? i wouldnt bother with rear if enzo is getting them made though

I run mobil super 2000 semi-synthetic 10w-40 always have always will, I've ran my high spec forged lump pn it for 10kmiles and never ever found any reason to change. Full-sythentic is ott for these engines and not as good for them. Also semi and fully should bever be mixed so unless its a fresh built engine or you have a profesional flush i wouldnt change over to fully either.

20g is the size of the exhuast housing mate. Td05 comes in 16g, 18g, 20g sizes 20 being the biggest wheel and housing. I ran a vf24 wich has an 18g exhust housing and hit 1bar at 4500 and 1.4 at around 5500-6000 that was on a dog shit map and a minor boost leak, but it was also a bb turbo. The td05 20g will be laggy tbh bud, and a noticable amount more than the td04!

Im with you taggy, club web addy at the top on the white bit, this proper made me lol. Looks epic!!