rorenapier

Im not laghing buddy. As for being anal, i prefer to do things properly Do it right or dont do it all Please rethink what you have said about the wheels being parralell, please just think and think how the axle is attached to the car etc. Seems like you want to put a poll up, its your web page, go for it. You can have all the backup needed, but i know what i would rather have, and thats a proper alligned car. Yes there is no gains to fitting it, apart from a properly alligned car that tracks well. 5mm is alot to be out, doesnt seem it but it is.

Yes it shifts right, and it will inturn shift the allignment out, which inturn will make the car crab. If you cant understand simple priciples of allignment and handling im shocked. as i thought you had half a clue. When you refer to coils, do you mean coilovers or springs? Either way, a panhard rod is needed when lowering an EP to get the best from it.

Your trying to tell me after fitting coilovers, you dont need a panhard rod? You even know it will shove the allignment out, so if you want a car to handle the allignment is important and the beam has to be parrallel. Your not that stupid to tell me its not needed.

No vtec at 1.5 bar?? Explain. Of course you can have vtec at 1.5 bar... Best cams for a turbo charged Honda are the Integra type r cams. Nothing to lairy.

You dare put a vtec controller on a honda and ill slap you!! The most pointless things ever made, just a gimick that losses you power If it were me id go for it buddy, something reliable and with a bit of poke, also look alot better than the UKDM ones. If you dont like it, there easily sold on and keep a good price. @G4V1N - 1.5 bar at 2k?? Are you sure?

Aaron - Change your harness point foryour right hand side strap to the mount on the rear arch, saves having 2 straps going through the same point. My car went through scrutineering over the weekend and my harnesses were deemed safe. For referance though - as per the 2010 MSA blue book, shoulder straps on harnesses are prefered to be 90 degrees horizontal, +/- 10 degrees, BUT anything up to 55 degrees below horizontal is acceptable. http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_for...or%20Safety.pdf Page 30 of the PDF or 189 for the actual document Enough waffling from me, get it over to Knockhill

Aaron - Change your harness point foryour right hand side strap to the mount on the rear arch, saves having 2 straps going through the same point. My car went through scrutineering over the weekend and my harnesses were deemed safe. For referance though - as per the 2010 MSA blue book, shoulder straps on harnesses are prefered to be 90 degrees horizontal, +/- 10 degrees, BUT anything up to 55 degrees below horizontal is acceptable. http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_for...or%20Safety.pdf Page 30 of the PDF or 189 for the actual document Enough waffling from me, get it over to Knockhill

Willwoods work just fine on the std master cylinder, no extra pedal travel and no soft pedal either.

This happened to a few folk sitting up around here. A heap of foreigners started booting the hell out of 3 cars, with there owners in them, yet not one of them tried to run them over? Why didnt you? I know thats what i would do and the rest of my mates would have done. Off the book thats what the plod told them to do!! Shame though, useless bastards have no brain

Cable tie it to the body of the damper.

The symbol does mean the cat is over heating, but it also illuminates if the alterntor is not charging. No belt, no charge.

WEPR exhaust, ext wastegate aswell

Ive had first hand experiance with alot of Speedvision stuff(inc tdo4 kits) and my opinion is, its absolute shite. Go with WEPR and you wont go wrong, WEPR ,is proven over and over again.

Go with the WEPR TD04 kit. As for the speedvision stuff, stay well clear, as there garanteed to fail (as you probably know from TGTT)

So your telling me they will have them brand new flywheels cast/forged to suit?? Seriusly they wont. For the price of them, they wont make profit on them Do you really think the STD flywheel is incabable of having the stresses upon it when lightened, there has to be a huge saftey margin(due to the reasons above, you pointed out) before it will go into production. Your opinion is your opinion, but ill stand by mine and say the lightened flywheels on the market are manufactured from STD ones, that have been crack tested and balanced. Toyota wouldnt use kek materials would they. No arguement

I know K-sport do a 6 pot brake kit for a starlet and it fits under a 15" rim. Give Mark@CMB a pm, he has em

You done the right thing by fitting a thermostat. Just think if you run an engine without a thermostat in the water system, it never heats up. Same with the oil system.A thermostat isnt a restriction, its an aid

And do you really think these manufacturers forge there own material to make lightened flywheels? No they dont, they will use genuine parts and have it tested like anybody that has a brain would do. As for the above, most folk have it covered BUT you dont need to balance the rotating mass if you dont have the cash. Will only really help you if reving higher than usual all the time, to keep it smoother. No issues here after 30k on mine.

Hazzagray, ive seen it and i dont think it would work well (just like the TMIC) You need airflow to pass through the cooler core for it to work, not get interupted right behind the core with the inlet manifold etc. Hence the reason at the front behind the bumper, no heat soak and a stream of fresh air.

Keeps the oil temps down, therefor prolonging the life of the motor. If there is no thermostat inline, then the oil will be over cooled, and will wreck an engine(basically running the motor stone cold all the time) So just remember to run a thermostat with an oil cooler.

May sound tiny, but think about it, with a big gap the sark has to jump further, and if your running a bigger turbo with a bigger volume of air at the same psi, then your goin to blow the spark out. Simple logistics buddy

Ryan, I would consider shifting the oil cooler, there is no way for any free flowing (undisturbed) airflow to get to the rad. Mabey turn it 90 degrees so at least the is some kind of decent airflow getting to it. Rory

Go with heat range 7's, they will be fine. Run a gap of 0.6mm. When was the distributor cap and arm last changed?

Same principal as bleeding brakes. Always worked for me.

Function over form min. It works so ill leave it alone, until it breaks ill mabey cahnge it. The line that goes from the top of the can, goes under the car, and faces to the rear of the car. Theres a vacume created as the direction of airflow under the car is heading in the same direction as the way the hose is facing. Dont ask me how it works, but i know for a fact it does. Im one of the few that dont want anything in my charge, hence no PCV or and breather hose to the inlet tract.